Long Travel BS Thread

Have you gone through the DIY setup writeup - I'm not saying I'm an expert, but setting up my first gen wasn't too much difficulty with the help of a friend that knew little tricks.

 

I don't think its the fact that my alignment is off, I think something is tweaked somewhere. I watched them align stuff and watched the numbers move. I gotta go eyeball my spindles later and see if they're tweaked or not.

 

I can guarantee you'll find out the cause faster and more accurately than a shop dude. When I had tie rod extensions that were too long on my 2nd gen the Firestone guy went ham on my truck rather than observing that they were too long - once I looked at it, it wasn't hard to figure out after 20 minutes.

 

A big thank you for @Anthony250 helping me put these back together. Like new again! $800 in I think.

 

Agree wholeheartedly, I too have one opened up on the bench.... also have a few pallets of take offs sitting in the barn. So cheap, so capable, I bought all they had. Add some adjusters for the bypass hole leaf spring valves, along with a bottom out control piston, and it might just be the ultimate daily driver set up.

 

Is that a Fox eyelet in the original picture with the threads exposed?

 

yeah

 

Damn, you put some parts on those. They came out looking great!

 

You have to install Schrader valves on all raptor 3.0's unless you want to buy the over priced tool from fox that doesn't work worth a shit.

 

The lengths manufacturers go through to prevent unauthorized servicing is always interesting. I have a box of em'... any idea what PSI they run? Usually lower with the base valve.

 

Did you fab the section that holds the MAF sensor? Looking to mount a similar filter. Does anyone make these?

Thanks

 

Did you fab or buy the section with the MAF sensor?

Thanks

 

You could probably buy an aftermarket intake and chop the section with the MAF to re-use with UMP. Whether it be a plastic section or metal.

 

How much do they sell for and where do you get takeoffs? Is the valving any good for second gen DCLB weight?

 

Urd sells a nice weld on maf mount. There are low quality cheaper versions out there as well.

 

The general population would try to use a normal air compressor if they had schrader valves from the factory. My guess is it's a Ford thing to keep owners out of them.

200-250PSI

From memory they will work ok out of the box for a loaded out truck. I have talke to other people who have rebuilt/revalved the 3.0's and the factory valving has changed some from early to current built shocks.

 

Parts were new seals and uniballs ($90) from shockseals.com, a set of shims from King ($40) hoses from Bernell Hydraulics ($50), and some rod ends from a pair of shocks I had welded rod ends installed on.

Paid $585 and a pair of old springs for the shocks so roughly $850.

 

There are still some NTO floating around on eBay. New from Ford they can be had for $950ish. Depending on how well they jive with the Tacoma, I will be likely be offering some up for $600 - $700 a pair.

Lol, I could see some folks trying some goofy things with the schrader valves.

 

Treadstone makes them with air straiteners available.

https://www.treadstoneperformance.c...ter+Pipe,+Subaru,+Scion,+Mazda,+Toyota,+Lexus

 

find your year make and model and there ya go