Long Travel BS Thread

Is it the valve you need a needle to pressurize the nitrogen with? ... If it is all of the factory Can Am sxs's have this as well. If I had to venture a guess it would be that they utilize this to keep the price down.

 

It's too keep every Tom, Dick, and Harry from messing with the shocks nitrogen pressure. As stated, if guys saw a schrader valve on them they would either take pressure out or add air out of a compressor, both which would effect the performance.

 

Gen 1 Fox raptor uses a nitrogen needle. Gen 2 is a screw and O ring, needs a "special" tool from fox to fill the N2.

It's usually the OEM that wants to keep the owners out of the shocks and to reduce the warranty claims from someone trying to check or refill the N2.

 

@snowsk8air2 Do you happen to know what valving specs DK puts in for their 3.5 kit? Might have an opportunity to get in on a group buy. Or I might just get the 8” coilover and have @AccuTune Offroad tune it for me.

 

Let me get back to you after I search for some old notes from the first time I had it apart. If I don’t get back to you by tonight tag me again.

 

@Supra4x4 see above. Looks like they updated their valving has changed some since I originally got mine. Knock out that 1.30x0.018 and leave all bleed holes open is what was in mine. But I’ve revalved twice now and it is way better. Latest is some top secret stuff my tuning help wouldn’t really give me specs for.

Edit: rebound was a straight 15 stack when I got it and I’m at a straight 12 now I know.

 

I’ve been thinking about getting one but my truck sits downtown Baltimore 24/7 so it makes sense for security. They might be able to start it but will probably give up without a steering wheel

 

I haven't revalved mine but I did swap to 18" 550# coil and that was a vast improvement for rock crawling.

 

Por que?

 

Respect for intellectual property for someone that does this for a living. If you call a professional shock tuner and ask for valving specs their probably going to tell you to pound sand. Pay them to tune your stuff and they'll happily put the correct valving in. Then it’s up to you take it apart and figure out what they did if you choose to do so.

As someone that worked in a performance motorsports trade, I learned a few tricks that I’m not just going to tell anyone how to do since I spent 6yrs of my life mastering something. It’s little stuff that sets you apart from the random shops that only know how to take stuff apart and put it back together how they found it.

 

Got it. Wasn't clear if it was a hobbiest tuner saying not to take your shocks apart.

I guess your truck is similar enough to a large number of rigs - my truck is pretty much a unicorn so it wouldn't affect anyone's business.

 

He explained to me what was in it and did say not to just give it away so I respected that by not writing it down. Though he wouldn’t care if I pulled them apart and did. Just so long as I respected his request.

Him explaining it, it does seem very drastic, but it is his secret style of valving for single coilover applications. And might I say it works damn well. Went from having my comp adjusters almost to full stiff and bottoming out often, to adjusters almost to full soft, almost no bottoming, and 5mph faster. This way I can head to some bigger stuff like glamis or just jumping and crank the adjusters in to handle bigger hits.

 

Good stuff, thanks guys. @snowsk8air2 Yeah I just want to get a baseline to start with. Accutune is about an hour drive away so If it isn't too my liking I can always have them help me out with either spring swaps or valving. I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to the shim stacks, I understand suspension cycle and shocks but how the oil works with the different shims and all that technology is new to me. Haven't gotten to crack anything open, but maybe eventually I'll be able to do my own rebuilds and valving.

 

For sure, there's tidbits for first gens I only share with others on a case-by-case basis and that said, they're not even super applicable to most first gens.

Not far from me then - a few regulars on here are not far from him.

 

Well a good starting point would be what @Robertocritser posted. The only thing I’d change would be a straight 15 stack for rebound. That setup is basically what I had after my first revalve which I thought worked great until I started trying to keep up with linked trucks. Then 15/8 valving for rear bypasses. Nothing too fancy there

 

What shocks are you going to?

 

ADS 8” coilovers to use with a DK kit. I have ADS bypasses in the back and want to keep the it all the same

 

ADS are great shocks and they are great guys. Got to hang out with them in August and talk shocks, bypass layouts and what not. Had I known about them sooner I probably would have gone that route instead of king.

 

thanks. what happens to the crank case hose? Is there a better way than those little cheesy case filters from o,o,o,o,oreallys?