Trailer Backup Camera Switching?

How many amps do I need to support? My understanding is these cameras were low amperage.

 

If you find out let us know...but your gadget only handles 60 mA.

 

Ok, I might have to go back to Amazon and source a new relay.

you have any recommendations?

im a software not electrical engineer

trying to navigate in the dark.

 

If you're staying with Arduino control types, to be safe 5 amp on the relay output type. If you stay with vehicle type relays, 280 types. small and handle within expectations.

 

Ok. Thanks. I’m looking at arduino boards as I want to not only follow the diagram you so generously provided, but also that’s what fits in my waterproof housing.

trying to find one online here.

i appreciate your help. I would like to get this installed before a big trip coming up.

If you have any leads on boards, I would appreciate it.

 

I do not...

That GEP FRH-24X is $10.00 at Waytek.com, but you do need other parts (terminals, seals crimper tool)

 

I again want to prefix this, as I am learning here and really appreciate your expertise.

it seems based on a previous diagram you posted I need two 8 pin relays to connect together?



like these:
845N-2C-C DPDT Non-Latching Relay, 12Vdc Coil, 5A 277VAC 1200VA High Sensitivity, Low Cost & Low Profile Miniature PCB Mount (2-Pack)

845N-2C-C DPDT Non-Latching Relay, 12Vdc Coil, 5A 277VAC 1200VA High Sensitivity, Low Cost & Low Profile Miniature PCB Mount (2-Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NCCTQWV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.dQQDbJ710NZN

 

SOoo you're going to assemble & solder...cool.

 

The Amps lower when it's 12v DC...find the specs before you buy

 

Yeah ... I can solder... I can swear copper pipes.

Just trying to source the right parts and wiring diagram.

 

I have not installed this yet, but did a test and the tailgate camera runs on 6 volts while the trailer cam is on 12v.
So all I will need to do is run the 6 volt feed from connector to connector and the OE video feed through the box.

 

Just joined TW yesterday, great info here.
After signed and ported to another thread someone emailed me a link to this thread.
Here is info on what I have learned so far building a relay kit.
OEM plug from truck on my 2018 is
Black 6 volt +
Red C+ camera input
White volt DC-
Blue C- camera ground
I had to connect both the white & blue to #2 pin on the aviation type camera plug in order to get trailer camera to come up clearly.
Here is how I wired it up

Here a good source for the OEM camera plugs with pigtails

relay box installed I highly recommend using a fuse.
View from OEM tailgate


View from trailer after plugging up camera cable

I may add some type of switch to the jumper wire on the trailer side of camera cable to eliminate relay chatter when plugging and unplugging cable.
I know I can sometimes be as clear as mud,
But I hope this can help someone.
Glenn

 

Here is more info that I have on IPad


I bought the short cable thinking that the ends would be cut off and used for pigtail adapters.
But while being a very tough cable with shield and very heavy jacket the conductors are just too small for field cutting and splicing.
Not sure why I ordered 5 relays? just wanted a spare I guess.

This plug was too small for the add on camera plug. I had to pick up a 6 pin round trailer plug, this works fine but is a bit large and could be mistaken for a regular trailer plug by someone else.
I saw another plug on a thread titled automatic trailer camera module that would be better.
The camera was the only one I could find with IR, wired, CCD& 170 degrees but I am happy with it.
All total I have about $175.00 invested if you removed the items not needed it looks closer to $150.00.
On the plus I have a hard wired trailer camera, I do not have to find room for a monitor.
I installed the Auto Solutions front camera mod a few months ago. These systems work well together, just press the steering wheel mode button two quick times and the camera come up, then use the up/down button to switch from front to rear cameras. I hope I will now be able to see if there car behind my trailer about change lane when I am trying to change lanes.

 

Place jumper on the negative side of the relay coils, and do the plugin and unplugging with vehicle off...

 

Hey good idea, if I put together another one I will use this change. At first glance it appears that this will put 12 volt on the trailer camera constantly. But after a closer look I realized that the 12 volt will be just static until the relays make and allow current flow though the ground wires. Also it may reduce arc on the pins this way.
I picked up the 12 volt power supply from the + terminal at the 7 pin RV plug on the bumper. My reason for this is when the truck is running there is 14 volt on this wire to charge the RV battery. I thought that picking up 14 volts would help overcome some of the voltage drop due to a 35 foot cable run to the rear of trailer. Also I liked powering up relay module any time the truck is running and not needing to turn on any lights. But what was overlooked is that whenever the RV is plugged up to the truck on the RV plug there will be 12 volts on this wire from the RV battery. I don’t see this to be a problem unless we are camping on the RV battery and want to leave the truck connected in order to fire up truck and charge RV battery from time to time. But at these times I will simply unplug the camera plug.
thanks for your input

 

Camera checkout

We did a short camping trip last week. This gave me the opportunity to check the new camera and the wife was able to nest some in our camper. The new camera preformed well, both on hi way and backing up.

On the road it is great to know the location of the vehicle behind trailer or in the next lane. I found that when passing another vehicle it is very useful, when it's front bumper first comes into view I know it is behind my trailer. It was raining on the way home enough to keep wipers on low. The view was surprisingly clear even with the mist from the interstate. The last few miles were in the dark and heavy rain it this time the view from camera became useless both on the road and backing up at home. Maybe it will preform better when it is dry and dark? Maybe I need a better understanding of how all this IR stuff works. I am guessing that when it is in night mode and camera is covered with water droplets it is building an IR image of the droplets and results in the view becoming a total blur.

As a backup camera it covers entire rear well and very good checking that it all clear behind trailer before backing up. This really helps prevent the yelling between the wife and myself from entertaining the campground. I found that trying to backup by the camera adds to my confusion of counter steering in reverse. It appears that I will need to start off by using camera to insure all is clear behind before and then use the truck mirrors while backing up.

Tip to anyone trying to mount a camera to the back of a trailer. First do a trial mount with a good double sided tape. Second do a road test to insure you have nailed down the camera location you are happy with before you epoxy the mounting bracket. My camera mount will not let me rotate camera up any more than it is now. If I had a do over I would move camera up about a foot. I was trying to mount camera low enough so that I could clean lens without dragging a ladder around to do it.

 

I'd run the wire inside the trailer...They also sell a lens washer, but you could assemble one yourself.

 

I started to obtain some 18 ga shielded HVAC cable from my old workmates. But it was just to easy to order the 35 foot cable and put it in a loom then zip tie to the steel gas line that run almost the length of RV. So far it is working fine.
I have seen the washer kits, I don’t know I kinda like to keep it simple. Reminds me of the old man who showed how to braze tubing 45 years ago. He said rule #1 is to learn to quit when you get though.
Hey Caribe
Glad you replied. When I first started obtaining parts for this relay kit, it needed be able to take a pounding. After all the relay box is strapped to rear bumper of a 4x4. I chose the Bosch type relay because they’re tried and true over the years. And frankly I understand them better. Also I do not think any on a PCB will tough enough.
My question is this, could you make a switching device using something like a SCR or two. Looking at the diagram it appears that maybe it would be possible to
1 tie the contact points R2&R3 together
2 use a SCR to isolate the 6 volts when 12 volts is applied to trailer camera
3 use a second SCR to switch camera inputs
Wouldn’t this get the device down to just a couple SCRs?
I am sure I am missing something here
In my experience I have leaned that devices like SCRs and IGBTs are very bulletproof, it is when they are mounted on broads and the such is where the problem is. I can show large SCRs bolted directly to buss bars in York chiller starters that been on line for close to 40 years
Yes I do have too much time on my hands