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Archery Talk

Discussion in 'Guns & Hunting' started by -TRDMAN-, Jan 21, 2009.

  1. Oct 25, 2019 at 5:46 PM
    #5381
    Cody23

    Cody23 Well-Known Member

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    I’m thinking girl toque as well I’ve had problems with it but it’s always consistent go I shot well with it. Guess the new bow is less forgiving
     
    StayinStock[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Oct 25, 2019 at 5:49 PM
    #5382
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 48 Year Chrysler/Toyota/ASE/ Master Tech.RETIRED

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    Side to side flight seems to me your rest is off and you said you papered it but wasn’t great.

    To me #1 is get your draw shortened.
    #2 is get that wiggle out of your arrow. Ie poss rest.
    Then you can worry about arrows.
    But I will say I had carbon express arrows and for me they sucked. I got erratic flights also.
    I switched to elcheapo Walmart arrows 1.5 inches longer with a stiffer spine.
    I’m running 350 spine on a 55 lb draw.

    There are so many things to play with.
    Be consistent in your mechanics, change one thing at a time, and shoot.. then make notes and
    Calculate.....
     
  3. Oct 25, 2019 at 5:51 PM
    #5383
    FreddyFlintrock

    FreddyFlintrock Well-Known Member

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    We use a jet sled for dragging deer out. And makes great gurney for loading deer up in truck.
     
  4. Oct 25, 2019 at 5:52 PM
    #5384
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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  5. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:02 PM
    #5385
    rtkbowhunter

    rtkbowhunter Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking your spine is OK. See chart in attached link.

    https://www.feradyne.com/hunt-chart/

    The string hitting your wrist is almost always because your draw length is too long. Or your breaking your wrist and letting it hinge back. Take your bow arm, extend and point your index finger straight out. Note the position of your thumb and forefinger. Your thumb should be at a 45 degree angle. Your bow will rest in between your thumb and forefinger on the solid pad. If you take your other hand an push in that spot while extended, you can feel it's a solid connection back to your shoulder.

    I would have your draw length checked again. Too often shops will push a longer draw to get that last few fps and form suffers. Too long a draw length can cause torque because we are trying to fit to the bow, instead of the bow fitting us.

    Edit: All my bows have wrist slings. Keeps from gripping the bow.
     
  6. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:07 PM
    #5386
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    also with the arrow nock'd and your rest up and locked your arrow shouldnt point towards your bow, it should be equal distance from the rest to the bow and not arc'd in towards the bow. If its pointing towards the bow it needs adjusted.
     
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  7. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:07 PM
    #5387
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    Amen to this. Big box archery shops are the worst. I learned long ago to find a good little mom and pop spot that carries mostly high end stuff.

    I've always gotten my starting point by standing up straight and holding both arms straight out, measuring middle finger tip to tip then dividing by 2.5. It's usually within 1/4-1/2 inch when I do this.
     
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  8. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:07 PM
    #5388
    Cody23

    Cody23 Well-Known Member

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    I have a wrist sling and make a clean follow thru
     
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  9. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:09 PM
    #5389
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    also bow should feel like it wants to tip forward after the release.
     
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  10. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:10 PM
    #5390
    Cody23

    Cody23 Well-Known Member

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    Ya ya I think I need more weight on the front mines likes to go back
     
    wilcam47[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:10 PM
    #5391
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    Do you use a stabilizer?
     
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  12. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:11 PM
    #5392
    Cody23

    Cody23 Well-Known Member

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    Just for the record I’m regretting changing bows now lol
     
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  13. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:11 PM
    #5393
    Cody23

    Cody23 Well-Known Member

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    I use front and rear. 10” with 2 oz front rear 8” with 3 oz
     
  14. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:14 PM
    #5394
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    Man, and it still wants to fall back toward you? Does the rear stab have removable weights?

    Actually I guess that makes sense because of the heavier weight in the back.
     
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  15. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:15 PM
    #5395
    StayinStock

    StayinStock Set it and forget it

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    Nah. You'll get it figured out.
     
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  16. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:16 PM
    #5396
    Cody23

    Cody23 Well-Known Member

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    I have adjust it for the new bow yet
     
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  17. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:16 PM
    #5397
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    This. They'll drive you crazy sometimes.
     
  18. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:18 PM
    #5398
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    Ahh, well if the weights are removable, which most are, just take some off the back until it falls forward. When I started shooting a rear stab I went through this. When you get it just right it cures other things in some cases. You'll get it man. Just stay after it.
     
  19. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:26 PM
    #5399
    rtkbowhunter

    rtkbowhunter Well-Known Member

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    Stabilizer is not going to fix arrows from fish-tailing or preventing torque. If you are getting side to side, then either there is interference with fletching, rest isn't dropping in time, cam timing, cam lean or form. What's it look like when you shoot bare shafts or thru paper?
     
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  20. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:30 PM
    #5400
    Cody23

    Cody23 Well-Known Member

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    I’ve check all of these so I’m going to say it form for me
     

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