1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Ahhhhhh now I get the primer joke that's been going on

 

@Sperrunner do you have any fuse boxes from @Tour991 s stash?

 

looks like i get the fun job of removing the tundras fuse box to add circuits for the factory trailer brakes.. oops

 

I have a interior one i think

 

That moment you realize you have an unopened pint of Ben & Jerry's Chocolate Fudge Brownie ice cream.

 

Its this kind of night

 

Everyone else is knocked out...









































Rookies

 

im here? trying to finger out how to add wires to my fuse box for trailer brakes n shit

 

Im shotgunning beers...

 

Naw you're legit

I just have too much time now since I finished all the marvel movies...

 

"finance" me some limited seats


if ya catch my drift

 

Oooooooooooooh I get it now

He still hasn't invited me to dinner....

 

son of a cunt.,
go pay him a forced dinner visit

 

@Sperrunner when are we doing food again?

 

When you coming to visit me

 

Still need to buy metric sockets, idk I just couldn't buy those at Sears the other day. Maybe I should order some now...

Then we'll hit up some yards, maybe even get some Cadillac horns for Tyler if we can't find good Tacoma parts.

 

The fuck...a

$113 Milwaukee M18 Cordless Lithium-Ion 6-1/2" Circular Saw - 2630-20 - ( MILWAUKEE ) - BARE TOOL

Milwaukee M18 5.0 from HD is $130...Amazon has it for $65.

Over 500 reviews, mostly positive, with a lot of pictures depicting a legitimate battery. So glad I didn't buy one at HD cause I'm ordering one now.

 

Looks like most CV axles from from China are from one of these manufacturers.

Heri - Yuhuan, China

https://www.heriautomotive.com/company/factory

Wohn - Ningbo, China

http://www.wonhparts.com/

 

Alright, so I’m starting to have problems with the Electric Throttle Control System in my 04. Can anyone point me to a thread dealing with these? This is what happened. About a week ago, I had the throttle body out and apart because the motor on the back of the throttle body quit and threw a code. Can’t remember the number, but it said along the lines of, throttle motor clutch circuit fault. The symptoms were a check engine light, and the throttle would not respond until accelerator pedal was pressed 3/4ish of the way down when the accelerator pedal position sensor actually physically actuates the throttle body. I checked for continuity on the pins to the motor with it installed on the truck. The clutch circuit did not have continuity, so I removed the throttle body, removed the motor and took it apart. Everything looks perfect. I put it back together and test for continuity and it has it. Nothing smells burnt, nothing looks burnt. I put power to it with alligator clips and both the clutch and the motor work. Reassemble, reinstall throttle body, clear code, go back to normal operation but with an uneasy feeling about it in the back of my mind. A week of daily driving later, I’m driving into town on a secondary road and go to shift from 3rd to 4th and the thing red lines as soon as I push in the clutch. I turn the ignition off, check to make sure my floor mat didn’t get stuck, turn the key back on before the engine reaches 0 rpm and races back towards redline. I turn the key off, come to a stop, make sure that the rpms are at zero before I turn the key back on, pop the hood, and run out to see what the hell. The pedal positions sensor, (throttle body pulley) is in the throttle closed position, but I can hear the clutch in the motor clicking (sounds like a high amperage solenoid clicking). Turn the key off, turn the key back on, fire it up expecting it to race to red line, but it starts after 5 or so turns (a lot of turns for it) and idles with a check engine light. Throttle won’t respond to pedal input until physical engagement of accelerator position sensor and throttle body valve are made. I drive it home this way (you know how hard it is to drive a manual when your throttle doesn’t respond until it’s almost on the floor?) grab the scanner read the code p2138 accelerator position sensor circuit fault, jiggle the wires to the entire system, clear the code, fire it up and she runs like nothing happens. Put 70-80 miles on it this evening everything from in town driving to mountain secondary road driving to highway driving at 75 and nothing. I plan on pulling the plugs apart tomorrow and cleaning them out with lectra clean, putting dye electric grease on them and seeing what happens. Any one have any constructive input? Don’t really want to just throw parts at it, because the parts are pretty expensive.