GoFastCamper GFC Mods, Tips, and Tricks thread.

Thanks for the clarification. I'm still waiting for my camper to finish.

 

I believe you're right on that, must have been a mix of old and new campers in that trailer pic.

 

I’d like to mount my traction boards to the frame of the gfc...has anyone found hardware to do this?

 

https://axiaalloys.com/product/pair-of-maxtrax-traction-board-mounts/

 

Pretty stoked on how these @mattgecko LEDs turned out in the GFC.
I ordered the “Warm White” kit.
Matt ships this kit with two separate switches but I added a dimmer to the upper tent section of mine.
You can see the switch in the channeling I ran for the fan and now light wiring.

Now I need some tips on how to remove the sticky shit left on the roof from my battery powered light that got left behind, haha.










I provided Matt with some info to help profect his kit a little more. The only thing I ran into was that the wiring between the 3 strips on the lower side was a little long. Matt said he will make the future kits shorter.
To reference this I shared a pic of how I bundled my extra in the corners. I can live with it.

 

I'd test this first somewhere that cannot be seen on the GFC material, but I've found that any cooking oil (I use Virgin Olive Oil) will remove the sticky goo left when pealing off labels on Rx bottles or other things. Oil on a cotton ball, a little scrubbing, and valiha the goo is gone.

 

I had him add the extra wiring between leds due to wanting to make sure he didnt have to rebuild the kit if wires were short. Have been working on a write up ill post when I am complete and get it back to him. I wanted to make sure everything is how I would expect it before sending it out.

Thanks for assisting in making this a successful kit for all future GFC lighting owners.

 

Yeah I’m not complaining there is extra wiring between strips.
I thought about this later and that might actually be a good think for the future incase a strip needs replaced for some reason it leave enough wire to spice back together.

You can see these pics are better than the GFC Forum pics I added a few day ago. You can see my wire routing a little better. I plan to replace my black/red cord that has a 12v socket plug on the end of it when new wire comes in so I don’t have a knot and butt connectors in it.
It will be hard wired and fused.

 

where did you get the tie down in the last pic?

 

4 Pieces Stainless Steel 316 5/16" Lifting Eye Bolt 5/16" UNC Marine Grade

$14 US STAINLESS 4 Pieces Stainless Steel 316 5/16" Lifting Eye Bolt 5/16" UNC Marine Grade Pitch of 18

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778WN1FB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AGHSDbWXZHFVN

 

so this is going to be a kit we can order from @mattgecko ??

Any info on pricing?

 

It will be a kit that can be ordered. I cant say on pricing at the moment as it isnt 100% finalized.

@mattgecko

 

nice. I’m down for one

 

I am interested in a GFC Platform. I almost always bring a canoe with me. Many times camping = fishing for me. I have done a few searches, but haven't found any pictures of a GFC with canoe on top. Anyone here been successful in mounting racks/canoe on their GFC? Thanks!

 

lots of pics from @wileydavis with surfboards. To be honest you need to be a little more specific about your canoe? 30lb Kevlar boat. Heck yeah no problem. 18ft long poly boat with motor. Not a chance of even getting it up there. The roof (closed) will support a LOT of weight. It’s when you want to open it that weight placement becomes more important.


Here’s a pic of mine hauling a small skiff w/ 6hp motor. You don’t have to limit yourself to the roof. The GFC platform is pretty flexible. My biggest problem.... no way I was getting a 14ft 105lb boat on the roof.

 

I usually bring an Old Town 133K. Weighs about 80 lbs. I don't think I would leave the canoe on top with camper open. Hopefully, just leave racks on. I currently have Thule racks on the cab on my 19 OR DCSB.

 

GFC will hold that with no issue. You can get Yak bars or the fancy GFC rack or even make your own. The T-nut system is very versatile.

 

Tip: Always carry tools and duct tape. If a hinge breaks and you didn’t bring tools because you were just around town you are screwed.

Trick: When a side hinge breaks, it just hangs from the gas struts. See the first pic. You can’t drive like this.

Here is what I did to make it 800 plus miles home at freeway speed and it held rock solid. Your mileage may vary. I am not responsible for anything that goes wrong. See pics for visuals.

1. Remove gas struts from door and frame. This was a pain with the ratchets and wrenches I had. Place door in position, latch shut.
2. Duct tape door in place front and rear. Ensure wind can’t get in from the front to peel it back while driving.
3. Take 2 ratchet straps. Using the holes in the door where the gas struts used to attach, run a ratchet strap through. This holes may have sharp edges, line with copious amounts of duct tape.
4. Attach the ratchet straps on the opposite bedrails somewhere.
5. Ratchet tight.

Note: my ratchet straps did not fit through the gas strut holes in the panel. I used orange paracord to create a loop for the ratchet straps. Check often while driving to ensure what is looped through the panel is not being frayed by a sharp edge.

 

@Borrego Taco

Oh shit. Now I'm so worried mine are going to break...

These stories are bad.