2tr-fe 2.7L dirty coils

Unfortunate turn of events. A droplet of POR-15 went up my nose while painting last night if you can believe it. I’ll survive but it was unpleasant. Be careful out there.

 

Not too much of an update. I have started installing the the steering rack and newly painted sway bar. I did end up ordering a timing chain kit so I will be tackling that soon.

Slightly off topic for this forum. Just so you know I am not slacking, in the rest of my “spare” time I have been working on my house project. Pictures below. Before the weather really gets cold I need to paint the side of the house that is currently scaffolded and build a small covered porch on the portion of the back of the house that is currently missing siding. Painting the back side will have to wait until spring.




This past Sunday after a weekend of working on the house I decided I would go hang out in the woods for a little while to relax. Then this guy decided to walk by and the relaxation was over. No complaints though .



I apologize for the dodge in the picture. These are tough times.

 

Talk about black face :leaving


You are a beast man

 

Awesome man.
We all need a break sometimes.
Good looking buck you got there.

 

Ok long awaited update.

As of today the engine is assembled but I am having trouble keeping it running :/

I took my time cleaning the top of the block before installing the head. Turns out the tape(zip system sheathing gap tape) I used to protect the engine while I was working on the frame had crazy strong adhesive. I would suggest something weaker. It took a long time with a razor blade and solvent to get it all up.





As was suggested by several people here I went ahead and order the timing chain kit. Following the shop manual made the replacement a pretty straight forward job.

Before tackling this job I should have made sure had a torque wrenches with the correct torque ranges. I had one rated for 10-150 ft-lbs but there are numerous fasteners requiring <10 ft-lbs and my wrench really wasn’t accurate <30 ft-lbs. I was able to borrow the correct one.

Old


New


The only snag I hit in this process was with the fasteners for the upper chain tensioner. Somehow I managed to break the bolt and strip out the threading in the head (ughhh). This may have been a result of my aforementioned issue with having the incorrect torque wrench. These fasteners were supposed to be torqued to 7 ft-lbs. I checked the calibration of mine at work and it was reading 12 ft-lbs when set to 7. I tend to doubt this would strip out the head but maybe I am just hoping that it is a defect and not my own fault... I ended up heli coiling the holes which worked fine.





After getting the timing chains installed I went to putting the timing cover on. I had some trouble getting the new front oil seal installed. I had to buy a second one and try again. $13. Worth it.

Poor seating


I put all the bolts back in preparation for reinstalling the cover. Note the circled bolts below. The bottom two bolts should be switched. The second and fourth bolts on that side are longer because they are used to hold the AC compressor bracket. This threw me a bit until I realized this.



Lining up the cover for install was a bit tricky. It required some finagling of the timing chain/crankshaft sprocket. I opted to put the bead of sealant on the engine instead of on the cover itself for install. I am hoping the sealant on the timing cover/oil pan interface was not pushed off while sliding the cover on. I guess we will see.



I skipped some pictures but here is it with the timing cover on and the accessories on the left side of the motor.

Here is it with the exhaust installed.



Compression test.






These evened out to 175 all cylinders after running for a bit. I will detail my issues with it running in my next post later tonight. This one is long enough.

Getting closer to being done I hope.

 

Awesome. I've been wondering what as going on. Hopefully it's just a loose connection.

 

Nearly back to 100%. You'll figure it out.

 

Awesome man.
Thanks for the update.
You’ve done a great job with pics.

 

Alright so here is what is happening with the engine currently.

Originally on first start up it revved up to about 3k rpms then dropped to about 2k and ran that way for about 5 mins until slowly dropping in RPMs until dying out. While the RPMs were high it seemed to be running pretty evenly. Once it dropped below 1200 or so it was obviously missing on one or more cylinders. After this initial start up and die down it would only start up and then die out after about 5-10sec.

I started poking around and I could see a leaky fuel end. See below. I must have damaged it somehow while taking it on and off. None of the local parts stores have this. It must be a dealer only item item(ughh). For now I just took the connector off and pushed the rubber hose over the metal connector on the fuel rail. Fixing this leak did not have an affect.



After this I removed the fuel rail and inspected the injectors for damage. I could not see any though the o-rings looked a little beat. I reinstalled and tried again and this time fuel poured out of one or more of the fuel injectors so I called it a night and had the parts store order me new seals.

New seals installed I decided to check to make sure the injectors were not clogged. I removed the rail and hooked it all back up but just laid it on top of the engine. With my helper turning the ignition I watched the injectors and they all had nice strong puffs of fuel coming out of them with no more fuel leaks.



While I was at it I checked the spark and compression again on all cylinders(all good).

Reinstalled everything and it behaved very much the way it did on the first start up. Now it will only fire for a couple seconds and then dies.

I am at a loss. I have compression, spark, fuel. Maybe the fuel timing is off? Crank/cam sensor? Fuel pump? But it seems like I am getting plenty of fuel. I have a million codes. Misfires on all cylinders. P2103 after the first start. P2433 on the second attempt and where is stands now. Aside from the misfire codes I’m not even sure what to believe considering how rough it is running. If it is only running on 2 cylinders or something I think it is plausible some other random non cause related codes might pop up.

To me the compression test being good rules out the possibility that I screwed up the timing chains somehow which is my worst fear. Pictures below of all the timing marks before putting the cover on.

Kinda hard to see in the one below but the painted link does line up with the mark.

 

it almost feels like once you installed the first chain, it needed to be rotated so the two marks lined up perfectly before adding the second chain. FSm isn't 100% clear on that.

that's said, seems like that would just give you a bit more shake

any chance it could have jumped a link on start up?

 

I don't think I jumped a chain on start up. I don't even know how that would happen. God I hope not.

As for the alignment issue I could be wrong but I don't think this matters. The crankshaft is keyed so both the inner(small chain) and outer(large chain) are always lined up together. Meaning I think you have to be off your marks for the inner and outer chains to be out of alignment. Like I said I could be wrong.

 

Vacuum leak? Just trying to think of issues. Seems like it would be difficult to hook any of the wires up wrong with the harness not having much play in it.

 

I have no idea if it matters but i think you fuel lines are on backwards. Notice the little white line on them

 

Wow I need to check this out tomorrow. My fuel lines have different colored connectors (yours are both the same color) and I think the hard lines they connect to are different diameter. Not sure it is possible to switch them. I will have to check.

Can you send a pic of lower down where those lines are feeding from so I can be sure?

 

.

 

Backwards lines will have a negative effect. Due to the wrong side of the fuel pressure regulator being fed.

 

I confirmed this morning that despite the appearance in my picture the lines are routed the correct way. That would have been way too easy.

I have a knowledgeable friend of a friend helping me work through the diagnosis. Tonight I am going to troubleshoot the throttle body to see if it is behaving correctly. One of the codes thrown was for the throttle body.

 

Just checked the codes skipped over them last night because I was engrossed in the World Series!

Throttle body for the first code listed.

Secondary air injection for the second code.

Check the throttle body connection and makes sure that nothing is out of the ordinary with it. No corrosion, no weird stuff with all of internal female ends in the plug. Make sure the valve can be opened freely.

Secondary Air injection will definitely put your truck in limp mode too. Connector first again. If that did go bad, Toyota has to repair that component. Or find a way to bypass it all together.

 

The connector in the throttle body looked ok. I cleaned the body before installation as well. It was somewhat stuck when I went to clean it but then freed up with a audible pop and seemed to be fine... I need to check that it is actually moving when I step on the throttle. Also check the APP voltage.

Ill check the secondary air injection connections and internals as well. I don't think the truck is going into limp mode. If that were the case it would just be governed to low RPMs or something I would assume. At the moment the truck wont even idle.

 

If you have enough wire, then remove the throttle body from the intake. Mount it where you can see it, and press the throttle. It will move as long as the key is in the ON position.

Or just pull the intake and have a helper press the throttle pedal.