Hey Connecticut, our everything hurts

wonder what skills we all have here. We should all descend on 1 property each 1/4 & knock out the projects. Celebrate finishing rounds with a trip to some lakeside camping & cabins long weekend.

 

Great idea, but I fear we'd all end up in the driveway checking out each others Tacoma, exchanging ideas and ... wait a minute, what's wrong with that?

 

Have any of you switched out seats on your trucks? I hate my seats but really like 4R seats. Is it safe to switch?
I installed leather seat covers but still not happy.

 

Looking to have the dealer throw some add ons to my truck before I pick it up. Im going to do Go Rhino RB40s and mudflaps on my own. Was thinking having them throw in a bed mat and maybe door sill protectors? Wheel locks (not even sure what they are)? And get the all weather mats from them or just get an aftermarket (and if so, what are you guys using?)?

 

For floor mats, I'd seriously consider aftermarket. I have Huskys and like them. Weather Techs are ok as well but a bit 'slicker' feel. There's even someone on here that makes replacement decals that say TRD if you don't want to advertise for the aftermarket brand.

My truck came with door sill protectors and they do stop the paint from being scratched up.

 

I have Husky mats as well and am very happy with them, more of a rubber feel than plastic. I have the TRD sill protectors but am in the process of replacing them with Xpel tape that I am custom cutting to cover more area. If you can get a bed mat go for it, and wheel locks are a good idea.

 

If you do door sill protectors, go with something glue down - like a vinyl that actually covers the outer curve of the sill. Molded metal & plastic ones trap dirt & rub the paint raw at the corners IME.
I think Weather Tech has a no-drill mud flap. Would be nice to be able to 'easily' remove them should you get into a little off-roading with the New England crowd.

 

Hi guys.

I am in the process of slowly updating aging parts on my '10 DCSB Sport. I just put in a pair of Billy 5100's in the rear and got the TSB leaf changed last year. I plan on getting a pair of 5100's with OME 883 spring and spacer for taco lean in the front and an AAL for the rear.

Are there any other parts or bushings that are you would recommend checking or changing out in the front while the truck is in the air and the suspension is off? I dont have the $$ for UCA yet.

If you have a link to a forum that exist already Ill take that also.
Thanks for the advice.

 

Check the LCA bushings to make sure the adjusters can actually be adjusted during the alignment and are not frozen in place. If the are free, during the front end rebuild, take the bolt/sleeves out and lube them with never-seize.

 

I agree (keep in mind I have no idea what we are talking about).

 

Front end alignment for caster and camber are by 4 bolts with offset washers in the lower control arms. Toyota's infinite wisdom didn't add any lubricants and they tend to rust to the sleeves in the bushings making an alignment change impossible. Only way to do it after they are rusted (frozen) is to cut the bolts and either replace the bushings or the lower control arms. The bushings are pressed in place so it's a bit of work to do them.

 

I've changed seats in previous vehicles. Is it safe - can be. or not.

If you find something that uses the same mounting holes that's huge. Be sure to properly torque mounting bolts per factory spec.

Fitment issues
- mounting holes
-electrical connectors (power seat functions, heat/cool function, airbags in the side of the seat?)
-watch your seatbelts (where they mount, the buckle match the clasp?)
-Width. I've come across a seat from same vehicle, different year that only fit way back. Different center console, should'a grabbed it too.
-airbag warning light! Disconnect the battery before swapping seats (so raise / adjust the seat so you can access all the mounting bolts) so you don't trigger a warning light that requires a dealer visit to reset (or the purchase of a special reset tool you'll use 1x - LOL ask me how I know!). Yeah disconnect the battery, change the seat(s), plug in all the cables, then plug in the battery.
-wiring diagram. Just because the connectors fit, if they swapped two wires/pins between years you better know before you power up.

That's all the bad stuff I recall, but really it can be a very easy & straight forward way to major improvement.

Given a choice in the junkyard - I'll take seats from a rusty vehicle over seats in a rolled or 'crashed w/ airbag deployment' vehicles. I'm just little doubtful of any seat that may have experienced rapid deceleration or major torque events.

 

I've actually been meaning to call Recor in New Britain to get this done.

Does surfandturf have a shop? I could give them a call instead.

 

Thank you, I guess my main concern is airbags and circuitry.

 

No, he doesn't have a shop. He sprays in the driveway of his house and does a great job. Nice guy too and you can't beat the price.

 

shouldn't be too hard to come up with wiring diagrams for the seats. If there's an air curtain, then probably none in the side of the seat? Little tag will tell you if it's there. Even if it's in the seat, so long as the wiring matches up - should be fine. You'd have to get power to it to make it go POP!
But of course - you always keep airbags aimed away from you - just in case....

 

Awesome, thanks!

 

Here's @Empty_Lord s adventures in seat swapping in a Tundra. Well it's rollover rescue, but seat swap issues is a part of his journey.
Rollover rescue 05 tundra

 

In my case the seatbelt had the harness I needed. And I relocated the seat position sensor to the driver seat in the same spot as the bench had it.

There are no weight sensors in my truck. So passenger seat wasn’t a big deal. Just modify the seat belt buckle to work with my Trucks belt

 

Good morning Nutmeggers and others.