Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I’ve been thinking about putting mine back on recently. Has been off for years

 

Call JD Fabrications for pricing

 

All it did was make the truck ride like shit, I threw it in the trash and never looked back

 

Those look like junk.
Send to me for proper disposal.

 

The earlier IFS trucks (pre-tacoma) are ill handling POS without the front bar, especially the ones with Erector set bullshit bracket lifts (like mine).

My 2nd gen doesn't have one and it not being there isn't an issue, especially if you are used to lifted trucks.
Will admit I have had a moment or two where I forgot I wasn't driving my X-Runner and tried to chuck it into a corner, remembering at the last minute "hey genius, wrong truck".

 

The only time I ever run a sway bar is on the rear of a linked truck. I have never once felt like the Tacoma needed a sway bar. I also have the truck sitting low as I hate lifts

 

Well in the spirit of doing the opposite of this thread title, I have cut everything out, chopped everything up and can now stuff a 37 lock to lock, bump to droop with no rubbing.


No inner fenders, plus all this tubbing to make it happen. Cab mount has been compromised some, but since the cab is welded to the cage in 8 places which is welded to the frame I don’t think it will make much a difference.


I can hear my free RCV’s from @81Trekker not snapping now.

And plenty of

 

Just imagine if you set your lower arms up like mine... you could run 40’s

What are you doing about steering? The stock rack with 33’s scares me.

‘Tis the season for Johnson valley... when’s our trip, I’m ready to go!

 

Keeping my fingers crossed for steering that the rack can hold out until next year. Then when it goes I’ll swap in a modified tundra rack. There’s a guy on here that’s building then for $1k.

Trip will be next fall. Got to get past my wedding in the spring and then past the summer heat.

 

I've seen this happen a couple of times, re-using the nylock-nut and getting grease on the threads leads to the nut coming off.

 

should I have greased the shank on UCA bolt during install? I put mine on dry as it came off dry. fyi. running a heimed UCA

 

I just had a massive light bulb go off on how to sas or stuff huge tires and change up the ifs a little for better all around goodness. Without having to alter wheel base. It's actually very obvious. Don't need to do it though. Even though I have been looking at wrecked AC.

 

I always put a little grease in there, just to make it easier to get in and out.

I also spray some tri-flo on the Heim joints occasionally.

 

I like using a thin coating of antiseize to prevent them from getting stuck. But it's pretty much pick your poison. Buddy uses a dry graphite lube and it works well too for a little bit at least.

 

To those who said it wouldn’t work...

 

What are the aluminum spacers for in the LCA mounts?

 

The final version of the lower arm mounts are adjustable... this kit can be run with anything from the stock pivot location to 1” forward. Different thickness pucks can be used to achieve the desired amount the arm is pushed forward

 

Ah now that's cool. That's a neat little addition. I don't remember reading anywhere that you were doing that. Like that you added some adjustability to it for the end users to be able to dial in what they want.

 

Best part is that uca bolt is still backwards lol