Ontario BS Thread

Thats amazing, something I could never get tired of.
How long did that trip take you round trip?

 

Barrie ,Ontario to Valmount BC 4 days ,the road up 13 km 1.5 to 2 hours in 1rst gear low range . Down took just over an hour .
The road is rougher than it looks in the video,but not difficult.
The photo at 19-20 seconds in the video is Mount Robson in the background

 

Pffft fake science!

 

today



Kitchener/Waterloo guys, get on it! I know few on tiny 35s and miserable 32s/33s here that are in the area...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/event-taking-over-bingemans-gift-of-light.636473/

 

Added to the calendar

 

Well i learned how paper thin the stock plates are


Ball peen hammers are the absolute best


Also if 32's/33s are miserable. where do my 30s fall under?

 

you need real skids

it’s 30s > 35s > 32s > 33s , special meth

 

Stock skid relies on the two braces for strength. Effectively it's just a cover to prevent the front diff mount from catching on obstacles, which would otherwise ram the front diff into the engine block.

Why are you running 30s? Stock size is 31".

 

is stock 31"? i assumed stock was 30" being the nominal size is 30.5 or something like that.

 

we always round up

 

Sorry just got a sudden itch in my arms, and legs... and neck.

@daks do these symptoms sound familiar to you? it sounds like the Hamilton rash

 

30.6" according to Tire Rack specs provided by Goodyear: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...idewall=Blackwall&partnum=67TR6WATA&tab=Specs

Rounded to nearest whole number is 31". There's enough diameter variation from inflation pressure and wheel width that nobody counts fractional inches. And of course the tire flattens a bit with weight on it.

 

30.5, 30" 1/2, 30.6"

glad to know my tire size increased from a theoretical 30" to a theoretical 31" with little to no modification! OFFROAD GUYS ARE FURIOUS WITH THIS ONE EASY TRICK!

anyways, i just stuck with 30" for some time as some people have went out of their way to mention 32.5" vs 33" or 34.25" vs 35" or the sort
Thanks for the clarification on that matter!


also since we last chatted, most places seem to sell skid plates in 3 parts; Engine, Transmission, Transfer case.
Ideally it would be best to get all 3 and have them bolted in, I'm assuming the priority is at least eh t-case and trans as they sit lower?
Just wondering since i had been eyeing the RCI stuff (I've not heard anything bad from them but if anyone has a set of skids or recommend someone else, just say) and noticed that if i get the t-case plate, they have an option for the exhaust re-route - worth doing the re-route (since it hangs lower than my left nut) before picking a set of skids? I don't think i'll be doing any crazy off roading till the spring, so i got some time to decide.

also, are there any other skids that should be taken into consideration, like rear diff, fuel tank, lower control arms? or is that generally overland overkill?

 

You should get IFS/front skid first to protect your oil pan and stock jack point from getting bent. Then transmission skid, and t-case is optional imho. I don't have it and my t-case holding up fine, crawl under and check that little skid that's bolted to t-case, it's thick enough to take on abuse. Plus your exhaust pipe will take a hit first if anything.

Or you can get all set, but then why stop, get a diff skid, gas tank skid become heavy af and hit the malls after! lol

I am with steel bumper, winch, ifs steel skid, aluminum transimssion skid and 35s already at 5300 lbs with full tank of gas. This trucks are easy to overload.

 

I say put skid plates on all the things.

But that is just me, for some reason I LOVE the way it looks with armor all over the underside of my rig.

I have Total Chaos LCA skids. @SDHQ OFFROAD ABS sensor skids. Marlin crawler rear locker actuator skid. More protection the better

 

get rid of the winch and heavy steel cable?
we can go old school
https://www.reddit.com/r/Engineerin...give_me_a_lever_long_enough_and_a_fulcrum_on/

 

Worth a watch

 

@Therby does your jeep disassemble that easily?
maintenance looks amazingly easy

 

lol, that’s with synthetic rope....

 

Depending on the vendor it may take a while to fabricate and ship the skids. Order after US Thanksgiving to take advantage of Black Friday sales and you'll be in a position to install them come spring...

Skids may not be compatible across brands due to the attachment scheme. RCI engine skid likely won't work with an All-Pro transmission skid without modification, for example. Once you buy one piece from one brand, you may be committed to that brand. I had to notch the BudBuilt T-case skid crossmember to fit next to the CBI slider flange.

I've taken hits to my front skid, engine skid (which in the BudBuilt design also covers the transmission), and T-case skid in Ardbeg and VMUTS. The South Trail offshoot where I cracked my rear bumper shell first gave a good hit to my T-case skid. IMO all 3 pieces are necessary. The T-case in particular has no frame support, so a hit can crack the aluminum casing and strand you on the trail. I did the exhaust reroute and I'm an advocate for it. The crossover pipe is at apex of the truck's breakover angle if you look at the truck from the side.

IMO LCA skids and rear diff skid are not necessary, because both components are jacking points and can take the weight of the truck with no issue. 1st/2nd gens had a vulnerable E-locker motor that benefited from armor, but 3rd gens changed from a motor to solenoids which don't protrude much from the diff carrier. I haven't hit the fuel tank plastic shield over the past few years. Unlike the 4Runner, FJ, and Jeep JK/JL, the Tacoma fuel tank is flush with the frame, so it is less likely to be hit. I have the BudBuilt fuel tank skid but hesitated to install it due to the weight - it's the heaviest skid out of all the pieces due to area.