Leaking upper injector o-ring - right bank Cyl #3.

Roughly one week after changing the fuel pump, I developed an upper o-ring leak on the #3 injector.

It must have been weak when increased pressure from the new pump pushed it over the edge.

Its not a huge leak. But I'm going stop driving it until I can take care of it. I just installed new injectors last summer. I mounted the rail to the lower intake manifold (LIM) and pressure tested injectors for leaks before installation. This leak appeared in the past week.

My question is, has anyone removed only the right side rail (e.g. the one that that is not completely under the upper intake manifold) to gain access to right bank injectors?

New crush washers have been ordered for the rail. I'm looking around for o-ring replacements.

I know that I will need a torque adapter like one of the ones in this link to work on the rail while the LIM is still on the engine.

https://www.mactools.com/en-us/Wren...9c05/3-8-Drive-Metric-Box-End-Torque-Adapters

Other than me noticing the o-ring leak, it runs great.

 

Not sure on the answer for your question about being able to remove just that rail but just wanted to keep the thread up top until one of our 5VZ studs can see it and respond

 

Thanks Bud.

I pulled the right rail off the old engine that I have in the garage without disturbing the left side. It looks doable. The banjo bolt crush washers on order so it will be a few days before I have parts and time to get into it.

If get into and see that it will not work, I can always pull the UIM and both rails at the same time.

 

Found pulled the intake and the injector rail. Yep, the #3 injector o-ring had an issue. When I pulled the rail, it stayed in the rail and separated from the injector.

Due to problems with MAC tools order fulfillment, I will not be able to receive the 3/8 drive 17mm offset torque box end.

I need to find a way to torque the 17mm banjo bolts without an offset box end for torque.

If I can't find a way, then I guess I'll just be winging it with a crow's foot.

 

For torquing the banjo bolts, I used a Harbor Freight 3/8 drive 17mm crows foot with a 3/8 drive torque wrench.

It takes six crush washers P/N 90430-12026 for reinstalling the fuel rail. Put the torque wrench in reverse for torquing the rear banjo bolt.

Be sure to have the rails properly mounted and secured before torquing up the banjo bolts. I should have moved the hoses out of the way for the picture.

I wanted to buy a high quality 17mm box end torque offset wrench. It was just not going to happen in any reasonable amount of time.

Overall, I think the HF crows foot open end may have been easier to use. As you can see in the picture, it slides into the tight space for the rear banjo bolt.

 

Did you put in new o rings gaskets when you sent out the injectors to be cleaned? Originally

Or was that o ring possibly defective or old?

 

This started out with all new injectors. Four were purchased from Amazon and found to be counterfeit. I suspected problems from the (set of six) injectors before I the initial installation. So sent them out for testing. Two of the counterfeits came back as under-performers. At that point, I should have pitched the entire set of counterfeit injectors.

So I didn't use the two under-performers and bought two new Intermotor FJ585s (the usual reboxed OEM) that performed without issue. After 1,500 miles you can see the pintle caps are deformed on the counterfeits. One cap that melted was stuck in the intake manifold. I had to pick it out using suction from a shop vac. As you can see from the close up picture, it looks like the pintle caps started melting. With part of the injector changing shape, the o-rings started failing. It was just a mess.

I plan to write a story on how to identify counterfeits, the problems that come with them, and known sources for new replacements. I need install some software to clear up the pictures and time to write about it.



After all said and done, it runs better than it ever did with a complete set of new FJ585s.

https://youtu.be/MtFbMO6CoZs

 

Was there a particular reason to NOT have the OEM original set just sent out to be serviced?

Next time I rebuild my supercharger I probably will take my injectors out to be serviced.
So looking ahead for me as what to do and not to do.

 

The originals in the truck were over 20 years old and had over 225,000 miles. Injector servicing is ok, though it does not replace old the old coils. You get clean injectors with new screens, o-rings, and pintle caps.

Having lived through and seen coil failures on old injectors with high mileage, I just wanted to just start with some new coils. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

Ok great, I’ve never had an injection issue before with my Tacoma with all my miles, but will definitely get them serviced anyways next go around or bit the bullet and get OEM ones

 

Where is a reputable source for the FJ585s?

 

RockAuto - because I've bought so much from them over the years and the price is decent. There are other places that will sell them cheaper. Then you get into older "sub prime" inventory that has been depreciated and sold off for cheap. Sometimes the plastic bags are yellowed for older inventory.

Pricing varies greatly for FJ585s depending on the store. For example, Advance and O"Reilly sells them for roughly $139 each.

RockAuto for roughly $80. Others have them in the $55 range -- but you need to be careful on the source.

O'Reilly

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...fuel-injector-new/fj585/6010828?q=FJ585&pos=0

Advance Auto

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/intermotor-fuel-injector-mfi-new-67248/20960207-P

Rock Auto

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=881747&jsn=1666&jsn=1666

Like OEM injectors there is a testing lot number etched into the side under the part number like the picture below. I found counterfeits without that number.



Here's a counterfeit example.

 

When I torqued the rear banjo bolt on the passenger side I had to separate the plastic wiring harness from the engine to allow room for the torque wrench. Even then it was a tricky proposition. Don't recall why, but I had to position the wrench almost straight up and then I only had a small torquing arc.

I bought a torque wrench from O'Reilly. Bad idea! It was good enough for two torque instances but after that it would over-torque bolts. (I returned the wrench and got my $$ back.)

Good work! Nice photos!

 

Yes indeed. Thank you. Yep, I had to loosen the plastic harness to make room. I had the rear fuel line loose from its swing mount to give a little more working room also. I've had that same thing happen with HF torque wrenches.

 

One final note about injector coils: A reputable injector service company like Witchhunter and MrInjector will let people know about coils and problems that come with some of the older injectors before they perform a service. I can tell you these articles are good info.

https://www.witchhunter.com/probleminj1.php

http://www.mrinjector.us/problem-injectors.html

This company will give it to you straight about the remanufactured injector myth.

Can a Fuel Injector be Rebuilt, Reconditioned or Refurbished?

Almost all gasoline based fuel injectors are sealed units. The term: remanufactured, rebuilt, reconditioned and or refurbished fuel injectors are misleading and a myth when it comes to fuel injector service.

Read more at the following link.

https://www.injectorrx.com/faq-items/can-a-fuel-injector-be-rebuild-reconditioned-or-refurbished/

 

Try Motorwest Performance:https://motorwestperformance.com Martin Diaz is the owner. I visited this shop when I was in Los Angeles visiting a friend. Martin is a good dude and his prices are fair. Tell him Timmy the Toolman sent you.

For those that find this thread and are looking for help swapping out injectors on their 3.4 liter engine, here's a video you can use to help you with the job.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/N-lhZIWOkyU

 

That's where I bought my rebuilt injectors for my 1998... Good price, no problems with the injectors, knowledgeable personnel. And fast delivery! However, it will be awhile before I can say that rebuilts last. I only have 100k miles on the truck, and I replaced them about 1000 miles ago.