1GRFE Engine Swap

Yup its there.. I guess I've overlooked that one this whole time.. its toward the firewall side of the valve cover and attaches to the bottom of intake downstream from the throttle body. Have you done anything different with that one?

 

The way you have it, with the open to atmosphere vent on the pass valve cover, then the vacuum line from the pcv valve to the intake plenum, you are essentially introducing a huge vacuum leak of un-metered air. Either go back to stock where air gets pulled in via the standard route (after MAF sensor, before throttle body via that big ass cap you have), or much less preferred, cap off the intake plenum, remove pcv valve, and run another open to atmosphere filter on the driver side (this can cause sludging problems though).

 

Switching back to stock seems to be the right option. Curious how the truck will react if I have been leaking/loosing vacuum all this time...

 

You'll gain some power. As well as fuel economy

 

What I have demonstrated is - knowing why to do (or not do) something is far more important than knowing how.

 

Since clearly I had no clue the negative impact this change had...

 

Hey its all good! Ability to understand whats going on and admitting, oh shit... that might of not been the way to do it is the best! Was just looking out / curious in the first place!

 

Swicthed back to stock.

 

Dayum that was quick!!!

 

Working from home today... lunch time. Done. AS a coincidence, I had a low voltage pending MAF alert (CEL) from the weekend since installing the XTP spacer... I figured that was the cause, and maybe it was, but first start after reconnecting the vent to the intake, (CEL) fault cleared on its own.

 

I get that code every so often. Never have any drivability issues, i clear it and keep on going. I am curious what causes it though. Seems to happen after letting the truck sit a week or so

 

Ya, it doesnt register through Torque app as an actual fault.. shows up yellow and clearly states "Pending".

 

Interesting. mine pops up on my ultragauge as pending. Next time it does this, i will have to see if it's stored in the computer or just "pending"

 

been running the XTP mid intake manifold spacer for years now. No CEL's of anykind due to it. Low voltage at the maf could easily be due to the bypassing of the PCV inlet like you originally had it.

 

10-4

 

Hey @lucky ill be swapping out the engine from my 2005 Tacoma 4.0 with a 2011 Tacoma 4.0 engine pretty soon. You make it sound like a walk in the park! Is there anything I should look out for in the process? Any tips or tricks? I think i want to leave the transmission/torque converter in the truck to save time, is that a safe thing to do?

 

@NewTacoDude - ya, it wasnt that bad, the wiring harness basically just folds back out of the way and when re-installing the new motor, all the connectors pretty much lay back in place exactly where they need to be connected. In most cases you cannot plug anything up wrong as there isnt enough slack in the harness to allow you to plug a connector where it doesnt belong. I took pics, but dont remember doing any labeling. Because of my sloped driveway, it was a little tricky getting the motor up and over the radiator support, but with a helper, was able to get it over. In hindsight, I could have also just aired down the front tires to get some extra clearance... Before you stab the 2011 motor in the truck, do all the common maint this motor typically requires... valve cover gaskets, timing cover, chain and tensioners. etc..anything you can think of - obviously way easier to do with the motor out of the truck. Good luck bro!

 

You were right! It was pretty straightforward to take it apart. It’s now time to take it out but I’m just wondering if the transmission should come out with the engine as one piece or can I separate it and leave it in? Only thing is I’m not seeing any torque converter bolts that should be removed under the plastic cover. And will I have any problem reinstalling the engine later?

 

Turn the crank with a cheater bar and the bolts will come in to view, 1 at a time.

 

Hi, newbie here from SoCal. @Torspd, @lucky,@NewTacoDude. I’m also doing and engine swap. As a little history, I have a 2006 TRD SPORTS LB RWD. It started overheating around 250,000ish miles (head gasket). I have the engine rebuilt (should have gone with used and lower mileage route), and now approaching the 300,000 mile mark the engine is showing misfire in #6 and burning oil like 1 qt/1000 miles. And lately I noticed that it’s starting to show signs of overheating ( e.g coolants is overflowing in the reservoir ). I know this truck can go for atleast another 150k-200k as here in SoCal we don’t gave corrosion issues. I need clarrifation and “enlightenment “ from all of you Toyota Saints on the following:

DONOR ENGINE : 2010 4.0L Tacoma

1. Is it better to use the donor engine wire harness? Or use my old wire harness.
2. Any issues with the dual VVTI? Being my truck (2006) is single VVTI.
3. Do I have to replace my 2006 ECU with 2010 ECU?