1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator.

No, I did and no issues

 

Thank you

 

Have you run a winch or anything with it? Curious how the stock wiring handles the output from the alt. I just put my winch on today and I can tell my stock alt is struggling, the cluster lights get dim and my voltage drops to 12.2 or so

 

Well ideally you should change your alt output to bypass the fuse box 80a and run a separate wire to fuse box. That way you can use all the potential of the alt.

 

What’s your 2 cents for the best inline battery cable fuse that would run from the alternator to the battery? Amp fuse?

 

I didn't fuse that, I didn't see any reason to TBH. The alt will only put out what it can put out. ALT to bat on my last two truck was just a straight 2ga cable and will be on this one too after I buy some more Temco flex welding cable. I run an 8ga cable from the stock fuse box to the battery too. And the original fusebox to bat connection I route back into the box to the post the 8ga is on.

 

If you really wanted a clean look and you have the space in the fuse box I'd go with the 100A FLM style fuse like the stock fuses

 

can you post pics of how you have it wired? I understand everything except for the bolded part

 

So I was gonna just run a wire from the alt to the battery and use a blue sea MRBF fuse on it, and I looked at the factory alternator fuse and it's 120 amps? Why is it so high if the 10 AWG wire is only rated for 80 amps max? Is there some kind of different material used for this wire that makes it able to carry more amperage or...?

I guess the 10 gauge is adequate for up to 120 amps at such a short length according to this calculator
https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html

 

I don't think I have a pic of that, I can take one when I get around to doing things tho

 

Is the purpose of the fuse to protect the battery from shorting to ground, like if the cable comes off the alternator and touches ground? Or is the purpose to protect the alternator if for some reason it produces more amps than it should? Or is the purpose to protect the wire between the alternator and battery from carrying more amps than it's rated for?

 

The last would be my assumption

 

Going off the fuse box in front of me(my tundra) the fuse in the box seems to be for the main bus of the fuse box. That’s it.

 

Beats me. I was trying to figure my tundra as out since I upgraded to a sequoia 150 amp alt. But they have multiple boxes with large fuses in each, and I’m tired. Sooo not comprehending right now lol

 

I gave the part number of this alternator to my local NAPA store to check the price there with my discount. It’s not a popular alternator as far as his chain of NAPA stores go. He crossed it to the Napa brand remand alternator and ordered it for me. It will be here tomorrow. I don’t care that it’s not a denso unit, but the spec sheet put this alternator at 120 amps. I’ll post more information tomorrow after I see it.
And you guys are just analyzing this way too far! Lol, there’s plenty of vehicles manufactured with no fuse between the alternator and battery. I’ve seen vehicles with a fuse between the battery and starter...., most vehicles don’t have that either.

 

I got the alternator and brought it home. It is rated at a 120 amps, but the max amps on the test sheet that came with it was only 108. I opened the hood of my truck and noticed something that I had done in the past that was probably going to be a domino effect on this project. I relocated my oil filter, no big deal but the hydraulic hoses are routed pretty tight to the bottom of the alternator, like almost touching. Moving the charge stud to the bottom of the alternator was more of a project that I wanted to do this weekend. I stopped right there, but may pick back up on it this week.

 

This is what I’m working with. Can anyone who has installed this alternator snap a photo from the wheel well so I can get a better idea of the exact angle that the charge stud comes out? There maybe room to work with. My truck is supercharged, with the spring tensioner, that allows me to move the alternator towards the engine or away. My length of belt and tensioner will govern this adjustment.
Looking back at the photos of the two alternators on the tailgate in the first post, it seems that it’s going to be tight, but may work fine. I’m focused on the angle between the long bolt through the alternator, and the charge stud angle, and length.

On a further note, any winch is going to overpower any alternator that you install. Those amps are coming straight from the battery, or in my case batteries. The higher the alternator amperage, the faster it will replenish the batteries, and compensate for smaller loads like extra lights, and things like that. A winch draws BIG amps, but is usually only momentarily used its not a constant draw. This is also dependent on the load that you're pulling with the winch. Once the winch gets your truck out of a bind, you notice that the speed of the winch picks up, its drawing less amps at that time. If you have a weak battery, you're also going to have a weak winch.

 

sub'd

 

I’m superchargered and it was no problem to install.
Its easier to get to it from the underside of the truck.
The battery bolt attachment is pointing straight down