3.4L supercharger

Very debatable. When I ran the FIC I used it to control larger primary injectors and it does this damn well. The ECU wiring might be slightly more invasive to do this but when using a PNP harness who cares. The 7th injector is more invasive as you cut fuel lines, add line etc.

I used this feature when I would fill up on E85, its awesome, and another advantage to having full control of the primary injectors.

The Greddy EMU I use now can have it's hardware modified to do the same.

My biggest gripe with the AEM was having to play around with an assortment of cam and crank sensor bridge resistors to filter out noise that caused issues with the AEM- too little, noise still there, too much, throttle tip-in issues. 2nd gripe was lack of additional features. One of the things that really has me on the Greddy EMU is the automatic trans shifting additional timing retard- its a thing and if you have a pingy 5vz like me it makes a world of difference. The AEM simply could not tune out the ping during shifts unless you went heavy handed on the entire timing map costing you a lot of power.

 

the method of adding fuel in open loop is different. But as long as the AFR is on target why should it matter? The only reason larger injectors or an extra injector is used is because of lean out at high RPM. And unless you’re running a turbo it doesn’t need much more fuel.

EDIT: not trying to debate or sound like a smart ass. I could be wrong.

 

When full throttle in open loop both short and long trims are at zero, with AFR at 11 to 12.

It hooks up when open loop comes on.

 

I was asking about trims during boosted closed loop

 

I don’t think ECU doesn’t uses fuel trims in open loop. Uses the sensor for target AFR.

Go into high gear and boost part throttle. Then watch fuel trims and AFR.

 

the rabbit hole is where I go. Trust me. This supercharger has made my life better in so many ways. I love this hole.

 

I don't have my nozzle tuned correctly as its running rich right now. My numbers changed for me when I replaced the fuel pump and the MAF sensor in a good way last month needing less fuel. I actually was running a number 6 nozzle before now a number 2.
I don't want to go to a number 1 nozzle, smaller, the added water with the methanol the engine definitely likes. So I will have to see if 30/70 is a better mixture after the 50/50 is used up,

My trims are consistently not consistent in closed loop tho. Open loop comes on sometimes at 2500 and sometimes at 4000rpms.
Depending if its lugging or at high rpms. Neither of which I have ping issues.

But Im spraying in closed loop after 3 or4 pounds which I can change to 6-7 pounds and my AFR is 13 fighting the whole time or so.
Short Trims tends to run more in the negative numbers in closed loop under boost when spraying like -5.
Probably because the Added fuel when spraying and the ECU wanting to lean it out to keep the 14.7.

So there is a fight with the methonal being sprayed in closed loop and the ECU.

The methonal definitely knocks the AFR down a point or so in closed loop once it’s starts spraying and sometimes it’s just for a moment before open loop pops up and sometimes not.

My idle, normal driving with closed loop trims are great along with open loop at zero or so.

But boosted short trims in closed loop are a guess with when open loop will come on and what negative trim will show up when spraying.

Because I’m spraying methonal in closed loop my numbers will be different than others.

This works for me, definitely not perfect but

I wish I could get the supercharger to be in open loop whenever I go into boost in particular.

 

Going into open loop it feels like someone hit me in the rear to take off, there’s a big power difference for me going into open loop from closed loop.

I wish I could get the supercharger to be in open loop whenever I go into boost in particular.

 

How can I get the supercharger to be in open loop whenever I go into boost in particular?

 

Thanks for clarifying tone, it can be hard to interpret.

Larger primary injectors are not inherently better, but its preference. Kind of like the "is turbo or S/C more reliable?" There are so many elements involved.

Personally I like not adding additional lines and injectors, but just having larger primaries that can handle boost and/or the extra 30% E85 demands. You could likely do E85 with OEM injectors and 7th, but not with the R4 software, I would prefer something that easily lets you switch out or better yet use a flex fuel sensors and blend the maps.

But again preference. I've had guys hate on me using a switch for 91 and E85 and try and make it sound very flawed vs. standalone and flex fuel sensor. But the OEM ECU is so fast at trimming and the 5vzfe with TRD S/C is so far from being "maxed out" at "at the breaking point" of the internals, the switch method had been fine.

I've noticed this too and I'm not on meth. Maybe its just bad transitional a/f tuning on both our parts, or the timing gets much more aggressive as around 3K the OEM knock sensors start to do their job. Maybe none of that and just the cam profile like a Yamaha R6. I had a non-vtec accord that would grow so much balls after X RPM I swore it was Vtec but it wasn't. Our trucks not being VVTi, maybe they have a very dramatic VE change not smoothed out by variable timing.

In older platforms there used to be open loop modules to trick ECUs into open loop. I think they did tricks like crank up the TPS signal, or o2 sensor or some such thing that didn't drastically effect the tune but would trick a ECU into premature open loop. Maybe someone should buy one of these and be a guinea pig haha.

 

I didn’t consider the E85. I can’t even get it in GA. If you’re going to run E85 then yes, I’d say the 7th would be a very crude way of doing it if you could even get it to work.

But for me I really don’t add that much fuel. I even cut back what URD had in the 7th fuel map. I did have to add in a ton of timing. My truck is just ping happy, honestly I think it’s a ECU calibration thing. I think there’s a lot of versions out there and mine is the ping happy type.

As for the increase of power at open loop mine did that before the 7th. Now it doesn’t do it at all. I do get a nice boost in power around 4000RPM though.

 

I’d love a way to get this 50-60HP lost on driving the charger though. It would be cool to run a stock pulley and run a small turbo at a few PSI where the first cat goes. Would make more sense to just run a nice front mount turbo but sound cool in theory.

I’m after torque and power down low. Not going fast.

 

Well the winter gasoline blend 91 octane sucks. It’s 60 degrees here. But after 2 gumouts in the tank, it’s whistling like it should.

 

Might not be that bad. Brazil is big on E85 and there are little piggyback kits that make primary injectors duty cycle a little longer for that 30% additional. Once you get towards redline/power peak you might run into duty cycle limitations. I ran the TRD S/C on OEM injectors and AEM FIC for a long time, they have pretty good head room.

Yeah I blame it on not refining my closed loop/open loop transition yet. I see the air fuel get into the 11s to 1 ration and the power kicks up big time- I need my closed loop richer maybe.

The struggle is real haha.

I have one of the early CXRacing turbo kits still in the box in garage storage because as a car nut I saw something that is EXTREMELY rare in the wild- an application where an S/C and T/C was so easily combined from an install point of view (you would only need to slightly modify the charge piping near the S/C nose cone). So there is BIG temptation to actually go through with this. Hesitation is my truck just works, and works well, is CARB and oh yeah, it just works.

As an EMS and electronics hobbyist with minor coding background, the next part of the excitement was the EMS and integration challenges such as bypassing the S/C when the T/C kicks on. This is a small part behind making my S/C bypass mod thread (the other large part was simply to turn the darn S/C off when doing mountain highway drives). https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sc-bypass-switch.582614/ Turns out I'm nuking it and a custom solution is probably not even necessary especially with the EMU.

As some other very astute members have pointed out, the bypass can't handle all the flow at higher RPMs, but its darn better than 100% compound boost. With the EMU and some tuning to control the S/C bypass solenoid setup (EMU has a 7th injector some use as a boost control solenoid, so it could even have a PWM like nature so its not a harsh on/off). Also if I went forward with this I would likely go back from the 2.2 pulley to OEM, if not even the overdrive pulley that TRD made before the 7th kit for those complaining of ping and a pulley company still makes to this day (I think it puts out 5psi). With all the low end ping the extra boost is just not necessary and would help out the bypass in the higher revs.

How awesome would it be that the S/C gives great low end instant oomph (like when you see that yellow light or need to jump from a slow to fast lane) and then when staying on it the turbo spools up, the air is much cooler and denser and then the S/C parasitic lag and heating drops off?!?! Ultimately its just not necessary, but again, its so rare for an engine layout, S/C and T/C configuration and options all just comes together to make this so easy vs. other massively custom setups on other cars.

When people as "why?" the answer is not because some complicated use-case, its "because I can" haha.

 

@Anthony250

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kap8ANNOoO8

 

I don’t know why you’d even want to bypass. Just run both on low boost or some combination. Is there a formula for compounded boost? I read somewhere else that 10PSI + 10PSI makes 30PSI on a twin charged setup.

My issue with the CX racing kit for me is the log style manifold made they sell for $500.00. I’d rather have something else. Like a small turbo at the end of a set of headers.

 

I’d like to see the specs on that setup. He’s got a tiny pulley on that S/C.

 

That’s a 2” pulley

 

Yeah the formula is weird like that. For me its to get the worth out of the turbo. Its just optimal. Twin charge makes a lot of sense:
- lower intake temps
- way less parasitic drag on the crank as @Shortman5 points out

If keeping it compound, the S/C is taxing that crank hard, super heating your charge air all for nothing as the T/C will have no problem to make equivalent boost by itself, running through the intercooler, not literally tied down to your crank sucking up HP/Tq. The only thing the S/C has going for it (besides CARB) is the instant nature of the boost. I would go big on the pulley though (diameter, not boost rating). I think pulleyboys still makes a 5psi for us. I just want the instant low-end and let the turbo do all the rest. Lots of low gear PSI will just be tuned out with pulled timing and lots of fuel anyhow- at least on my pingy 5vz. 5lb pulley would make much less heat and much less air to be bypassed by the OEM bypass when the T/C kicks on.

@1997tacomav6 yep there are a number of compound (or maybe twin charged?) Tacoma setups out there, IMO for the reason I mention- WHY THE HECK NOT?! The TRD S/C lends itself to it.

I feel you @Shortman5 , CXracing isn't the benchmark of quality. But at the time I had dealer pricing and I was 110% SURE it was going to be a short lived kit so I pounced on getting one when it was in stock. Many years later and low'n'behold its still on their site, so I was dead wrong there. But still, just sitting there for when I get a big dose of stupid and make a perfectly working daily a mess.

** Edit pulley boys makes two underdrive pulleys, 5psi and 4psi. Perfect for that semi hammer drop (you all with the auto know what I'm talking about, when not WOT and the trans doesn't want to kick down and you get low gear/high boost), full boost low gear, minimal timing pulled and then the T/C spools, drop the S/C off. Just talking about this is making me want to do this project again...