Cam gears for V6. Add power AND mpg

Lincoln lock-tight

 

Elmers, torque wrenches, crows feet and MIG welders are for amateurs. Real pros use a 10lb sledge and a swing for the fences.

 

Would a dab of blue loc tite be the worst of things?

 

Absolutely not, thats my plan. (Its what i do on the moto's that have a similarly held on cam gear - one bolt and a keyed cam / separate gear)

 

Anybody in Oregon (salem) going to be installing gears soon?

 

My whole truck is held together with blue loctite.

 

I put that shit on EVERYTHING!

 

That one is my favorite tool out of the arsenal actually! I love the dual sized Snap on boxed wrench.

Geez man. Lol. You guys must believe in black cats, breaking mirrors, and walking under latter's giving you bad luck too eh?

 

Haha.... i mean, i have never had anything come loose n fall off on my truck (or motos)... so i guess it works?

 

No, that's if you use red loctite on everything.

 

Ahh, motos, that's why you use that stuff on everything on the truck. Makes sense. Lol.

I literally have never used loctite on any vehicle unless it was on a cam swap build, for the three main hold down bolts of the cam sprocket to cam and I have never had a loose fastener, like ever.

 

sub'd

 

Almost got em! Well, I know you guys said the cam bolt was on there pretty good, but geeeeez! I also noticed during the procedure that I did not have a 24 mm wrench!

 

Happy face LOL
First pic I seen of that side ????? no mark on chain ???? So the top dead center chain mark is only on the the other side ?
This engine is all new to me ! (old chevy guy ) Forgive my ?????? I have my gear set , Just need more Info ? Thanks

Update I see yellow paint on link ???

 

Yes, both sides had a painted link. I had to rotate the crank quite a bunch to get them lined up. I also tried using a craftsman flare nut wrench for the cam bolt and it couldn't do it. It started to deflect and was ready to strip. I used a box end wrench instead.

 

Also, make sure you apply some fipg when assembling the valve covers, or I used Permatex Ultra Grey, at the areas shown in the upper diagram (seal packing). There is an uneven area there that will leak oil if not.

Edit: I was able to torque the cam bolt using a crows foot.

 

Ok, so this does intrigue me. However:

Retarding the Exhaust Cam will increase scavenging, but will also yield a reduction in low end torque. (Moves torque curve higher in the RPM range) So, for those that tow, and do not generally zip around at high RPM, should we not be trying to reduce the cam overlap by advancing the cam gear for more low end? (Specifically relating to N/A engines)

 

So far everyone has "felt" an increase in low end power and little to no difference in high end. This is probably due to the increased knock threshold allowing for better timing. (Even without tuning-the ecm will allow for better timing with these installed) should you truly want to advance timing, the gear could be installed backwards for 3° advancement. I can cut any degree someone wants upon request. Did one set at 4° but don't know if they ever got installed.

 

We all know how trust worthy the butt dyno is. I felt much more response after my intake install. Just a placebo from the louder sound. The reason URD promotes these is to increase the valve overlap in order to get all of the hot exhaust out of the cylinder to prevent the charged hot air from heating up even more. Increasing the overlap (retard exhaust) allows for more agressive spark timing due to higher knock threshold. This would increase High RPM gains through tuning.

Less overlap (advanced) in theory provides more low end pulling power, which most would want in a daily driver. Your point of installing them reverse also Intrigues me. I think I may need a set and get them dynoed in each configuration.