3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights

Yes you can modify the bulb easily with a dremel. Remove the top tab in the connector, when you put the h9 next to the h11 it’ll be obvious what to remove. I simply added a harness to make swapping bulbs easier in winter after having bad experiences with my old Subaru Outback eating bulbs like candy.

 

The Morimoto doesn't look very promising. That blade looks pretty thick.

 

can someone summarize all this science for a dummy: what's the best $200 I can spend on my headlights for a 5000-6000 color temp?

 

Buy 14 pairs of H9 headlight bulbs and wear blue safety glasses.

 

It's 2019 buddy, you don't need my permission.

 

Maybe I just dont remember my Fusion having any icing issues... I rescind my stance on drop-in LEDs resisting snow and ice, though. I assume it's because the headlight is a much larger lens than my flashlights, thus is less focused at close range, but there is very little heat emitted from the headlight at point blank range. Both of my flashlights are significantly warmer up close.

 

If you are really set on high color temp, look at the Hikaris LEDs in post #3. Halogen light sources won't practically reach those color temperatures.

 

Diode Dynamics measured the distance between the emitter faces in one of their videos on focus, and it was ironically better than the Diode Dynamic product they were promoting in the video, though there was a bit of a slight of hand so most wouldn't notice. It is a popular brand, and I had the opportunity to add them by borrowing them from another member so I figured might as well.

 

@crashnburn80

Pro6 with the cover with 31% lose is very hard to stomach!

 

@White lightning boosted Here is the Pro6.

 

A bit more than I was hoping for. Rigid’s lost nearly 50% with clip on amber covers, but that was with their higher color temp lights. Rigids lights with selective yellow amber lenses were closer to 20%. Since KC had good 5000k light I was hoping for a little better numbers, but they also have made the light a really great true yellow color with no hints of green, which means more filtration and thus a bit higher in intensity loss. It is a balancing trade off.

 

great feedback sir. what are the dimensions of this lamp housing? im interested in a behind grille application with minimum heat and obstruction of air flow. would a light bar be a better option for this?

 

Why is it illegal levels of glare? Just because of the way the Tacoma projectors work? If I put them in and point my headlights down more, isn’t that defeating the purpose of the better bulbs extending my high beam distance?

 

Halogen projectors have uplight to illuminate overhead signs. They are not complete hard cut offs as many assume. Increasing the raw amount of halogen light output also increases the uplight. A performance high efficiency H11 increases focus for greater intensity, but output remains capped at legal limits. Yes aiming the headlights down defeats the distance projection gains and reduces visibility and it also does not actually address increased uplight.

 

Well shit I thought you guys were convincing me to get H9’s, now I’m finding out it’s illegal and going to hurt other drivers? Lol

edit: we’re talking about low beams being too bright right? Obviously I would turn off high beams when I see other drivers but just want to be clear

 

Dimensions on KCs site:
https://www.kchilites.com/light-type/led/pro6-leds/gravity-led-pro6-single-pair-pack.html

The KC Pro6 lights were selected for their best in class distance projection. A light bar will package nicer with lower airflow restriction behind the grill. There are only a few real driving pattern lights though. Rigid and Diode Dynamics make some. Most “driving” light bars are really combo bars which are a short range wide area optic paired with a narrow long range spot optic. Not the same as a wider area mid-long range driving optic.

 

I’m not certain what specific model projectors those tests were run in for absolute comparative numbers. But a halogen upgrade that increases raw output will increase output throughout the beam pattern in all aspects, including uplight. Note that even stock wattage performance bulbs see increases in uplight, but not quite to the same extent as their performance is achieved through focus intensity, not higher output.

If looking for the best performing stock wattage bulb, then that is the GE Xenon +120.

 

They're the popular Koito projector in those pics I posted. He repeated the test with another common projector (Stanley iirc) with similar results.

Let me clarify my actual thoughts on what I said about the H9 glare, though. I pointed out the increased glare primarily because there are so many LED critics here that cite glare as a reason to avoid LEDs. The glare of the H9 is probably a similar increase as what the LEDs in my reflector equipped mustang exhibit. I don't honestly think 50% more of a dim light is suddenly going to blind people and cause unsafe driving conditions. It's when you have a 300% increase from HIDs or a total loss of the cutoff from poorly designed LEDs that you're gonna be "that guy."

If the H9 is the route you are leaning towards, I wouldn't let that mild increase in glare deter you. If the Hikari bulbs let me down in the longevity department, and there isn't a better LED by then, I'll probably end up going the H9 route as well.

 

23 year warranty?! looks like quality to me.

 

@crashnburn80, Thx for all your hard work on this! I just wished I had read this prior to getting VLEDs micro extremes H11 and letting the 30 day return window expired. I just Installed GE MLU +130 and I am really happy with them! The brightness, cut-off and throw is just what I needed. I now have the VLEDS in the Hi beam reflectors...As I only use them as needed. They're really bright but I guess theres a "dark hole" just like your pics with LEDs in the reflector housing shows. Any thoughts on leaving them on Highs? Thanks again!