3.4L supercharger

Too bad Greddy discontinued their piggyback program. I’m assuming it’s because most ECUs can be tuned these days with something like HP tuners.

 

So this is probably were I need to send more time dialing it in. Hell I had a hard time imputing the voltage to get a AFR value like AEM's YT videos show you. I think I ticked the high drive box and was able to make changes and see results.

I have my AFR wired to the FIC and it's fairly accurate after it's setup. I have had my map/fuel change a ton VIA the fuel trims and it's never a set it and forget it type of tuner.

This guy in Lake Havasu, AZ sells a haltech 750 that piggbacks the stock ecu for 3.4's.

https://www.instagram.com/tunedbygabe/

It's not emissions compliant as it doesn't kickout OBD2 codes or ready monitors like the stock ECU.

 

Well I figured out my problem. When I got my muffler and new tailpipe, it was a 2.5” exit from muffler and 3”pipe to the tip. Yesterday I noticed the exhaust was loud. So I looked and there’s a hole there between the pipe and muffler. I didn’t know at the time but instead of putting the pipe over the muffler, the 3” pipe was squeezed to less than 2.5 to go in the muffler exit. I think too much exhaust bouncing back towards the engine since squeezing the 3” pipe wasn’t an exact circle. Anyway, I had them redo the whole thing and I watched them. I’m back to 2.5” over the muffler exit. So the truck is much better. WTF man. Now it’s whistling like I like. I debating doing a glass pack to lower the volume down even more. I just want to hear supercharger.

 

Yeah I think it turned really unprofitable. Damn shame- IMO a few more features like o2 skewing and it would be 100%. Its so much better than so many other piggies out there, the only piggy that can get close is the FIC but IMO the EMU's timing retard is more accurate (its not just cam/crank signal but it intercepts the IGTs themselves) and has the trans shifting additional retard option. Also has crazy correction maps. There is a company out of Thailand that figured out a dumb output box and essentially turns the EMU into a standalone.

According to EMU docs you can also take a wasted spark setup and wire up a COP, the EMU will take the IGTs and output 3 to 6 in the right firing order. I tried it once and couldn't get it to work but I was limited on time, I want to try again sometime.

Spliced in Standalones with the OEM ECU in the IS300 scene was big for a while as many standalones back then couldn't control DBW, didn't have canbus output for the gauges and the autotrans control wasn't easy to figure out. Now there are full replacement PNP standalones that completely remove the OEM ECU effectively- really cool stuff. But I want to be able to pass OBDII plug-in tests so still a no-go for me.

 

Do you have those typical "cold air" intakes? Getting rid of the OE Airbox should really let that sound out. Maybe even just the deckplate mod...

 

I would love to just hear that thing by itself. I can’t wait to get rid of the GY Duratracs. They are too loud. I got the quietest muffler.

 

Install a snorkel and point the head of it toward your passenger window with the window rolled down. You'll hear the supercharger scream inside the cab lol. I've done it before just to see what it sounded like.

 

That would rule. For one thing, You be listening to it with nothing else on your mind whatsoever. Alright what was that snorkel part no? LOL.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4x4-Of...-VZN170-VZN195-5VZ-FE-1995-2004-/372467728316

was it this one?

 

Okay guys. I’m about 98% sure the needle bearing are SHOT on my supercharger with only 40k miles.

It started out as very intermittent but today it is way worse. I’m getting a different pitched whine/gear like noise from the rear of the S/C but it’s still intermittent and very strange.
it sounds almost like a bad whining transmission.

I called SuperchargerOnline and he said it could be the rubber plug on the back that’s cracked. I highly doubt that but I replaced it anyway. I guess the plan is to take the rotor pack out tomorrow and and check for wear.

I shouldn’t have to be doing any of this but this is exactly what you get for not getting a warranty straight from Magnuson. I saw this for sale as a TRD unit still sealed in the box with everything and bought it all because I wanted it to say “TRD”. I’m a dumbass.

 

Yup that's the one, except you don't really want to turn the head from facing forward, especially at speeds over ~45mph as the engine won't get the air flow it needs. I just did it that time to see what it sounded like

 

Sorry man. Do you have a boost gauge? If so, any difference?

 

Haha, remind me tomorrow if you want to hear the supercharger screaming, got something in store for you then.

 

just a question how many people are running a SC with 2.2 pulley, 7th injector and using a scan tool to read the boost psi. i used to get around 9-10 but not only really see up to 6 psi.

 

Forgot to ask where is everyone installing their methanol containers?

 

Using the wiper tank

 

do you get the vapors going into the engine bay? can you smell the methanol? i have mine in my cab area, and i need to relocate it. i just dont like knowing its there

 

without the scan tool 7th, I was at 8.6 at. The 7th I don’t think matters as far as boost. I’m max 7 with the stock pulley. I am consistent at 6.4 in stock pulley in 4th when I boost from 55 mph

 

There are NO vapors when it’s hooked into the windshield tank.
Nothing to smell even with the hood open

 

7 is pretty good for stock. i am running methanol, 7th injector, 2.2, and a new SC. i been getting 9ish with the 2.2. about 5 with the stock pulley. i think my scan tool is lying to me about the boost? when i traveled to lake Tahoe my boost was like 2-4.

now when i slam on the gas my scan tool tells me about 6psi. no idea, i think maybe my tensioner is letting my belt slip