3.4L supercharger

That’s right...I remember talking with you about the VB upgrade..sorry I forgot man!


I putt a 2” on and keep have my issues with 3-4 psi uphill on freeway and pinging. Won’t bounce in and out of overdrive like before, BUT...3-4 psi while cruising is not cool.

What’s your experience?

 

What were your AFR again? In overdrive with boost and out of overdrive in boost?

 

It’s the same thing. Cooling comes from the water. Boosting octane is from meth. I’m after cooling not octane boosting.

 

They keep pushing toward that 4.7 in closed loop

I have to go WOT for 5-8 seconds to get out of closed loop

 

For anyone wondering my AFR is ~13.5 in part throttle boost and when in open loop drops from 12.5 to 11.5

 

So your AFR never gets down below 14 in boost or WOT in boost?

 

I’m after the same thing. That’s the plan. A no.1 nozzle.

 

Also, I use 25% meth in distilled water to keep the water from freezing (Good down to -5 degrees I believe) with the smallest nozzle available from devils own. I’m considering tapping the supercharger manifold after the rotors to add another nozzle.

 

I can’t use the meth because I’m at 11-5 AFR WOT on stock or 2.2. And when I push the clutch in to shift in boost, more fuel gets dumped in and down to 10 AFR but only for a split second. But I am interested in the water as a summer time system. In the winter I would winterize it and take it offline.

 

I’ll probably never run a 2”. I might run a 2.1” if boost drops with new exhaust from less backpressure.

even with a 2.1 you’re over spinning the blower.

 

IMO that is the ideal setup- newbies read here, just do this, all kinds of optimal. OEM factory tune outside of boost still 100% OEM perfect. 7th gives you that little bit more fuel but more importantly those closed loop air fuel tuning and timing retard. The water probably mitigates the 7th almost entirely. The auto trans can't handle WOT pulls from the S/C so a valve body and cooler sums it all up. I have valve body and water meth on the 'to-do' list.

This is why I made the S/C bypass mod. Rocker switch in my cabin controls a 3 nipple solenoid that is plumbed up with a check valve, vacuum tank etc to let me 'fool' the S/C into thinking there is low load and kicks the S/C into bypass.

When I was rocking meth I did this with a devil's own nozzle and solenoid (triggered by the AEM FIC), the solenoid was crap, it let water get sucked in by the manifold vacuum so just coasting around in vacuum with a full water/meth tank and in short order the tank light would turn on. Maybe solenoids have gotten better since then but I'm weary of putting any water/meth nozzles on a vacuum side unless its the really rare setups that basically use a fuel injector.

On that note slightly off-topic, unique water/meth setups geek me out. There are some out there that are more like a typical fuel system, a ~40psi 'fuel rail' like setup, fuel injector, everything rated for water/meth. Another youtube vid has a guy use positive boost pressure to feed into a boost tank to use as a method to then force water/meth via nozzle on the low pressure side- really cool way of being unconventional about it.

 

Do you cruise in boost when you don’t mean to? Like light throttle and then you’re at 4 PSI say up a hill?. Have you run a 2” pulley? Or know anyone that made a 2” work on auto tranny? Thanks

 

I’ll have to check on WOT

I don’t do that very often

Too much spin out with my big tires

 

What helps me even in 5th gear, when I have over 2500 rpms is I go WOT on a hill. I don’t half way throttle it. That puts me in open loop and the temps are better. It’s not convenient to floor it all the time. When I don’t floor it, I just chill like a “normal” old Tacoma and lose speed up the hill.

 

I have JBA headers and still have this problem.

Boost hits 9-10

Pinging at 75mph, 2400rpm, overdrive on, 3-4 psi going up hills on the freeway

maybe 3” can back or high flow cat might help...but I doubt it.

 

I see what you are saying about losing speed like when we were stock.

 

Wot

 

Imagine if there was an off-the-shelf bypass diaphragm replacement kit that swapped it out with a stepper motor and little tuner box- tune out the S/C from coming online in these high load/low RPM situations.

 

My opinion is the 1st step you have to do is figure out how to get your AFR to 11.5 to 12 at WOT .
Find out your AFR at WOT and go from there to trouble shoot

 

Yeah. I Am still learning the truck’s weak points and trying to adjust my driving. Before the S/C, I took turns in 3rd at 20. Now I’m on second.