Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

Going to be ordering coilovers soon so I wanted to get a list going of the other shit I want to do when I install the coils and UCA's that I need to order.

So far it looks something like this.

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/coil-bucket-tower-gusset?variant=6924876840995


https://eimkeith.com/buystuff/stk/


https://www.kartek.com/parts/kartek...rap-with-4130-heat-treated-chromoly-ends.html (2)


https://www.kartek.com/parts/weld-o...ustable-suspension-limiting-strap-clevis.html (2)


https://www.kartek.com/parts/kartek...spension-limiting-strap-with-916-id-hole.html (2)


https://www.kartek.com/parts/adjust...er-shank-holds-up-to-3-suspension-straps.html (2)

@jubei let me know if I missed anything for the Kartek setup.

 

The standard, cheaper clevises will work fine, otherwise you look good.

 

Ah I thought that one came with all the hardware/spring etc, so it looks like I will need all of this as well?

https://www.kartek.com/parts/adjust...shank-holds-2-suspension-limiting-straps.html (2)
https://www.kartek.com/parts/standard-grade-8-flat-washer-for-12-inch-bolt.html (4)
https://www.kartek.com/parts/grade-...most-threaded-pfc9-porteous-fasteners-l9.html (2)
https://www.kartek.com/parts/suspension-limiting-strap-clevis-spring-for-12-inch-clevis-shank.html (2)
https://www.kartek.com/parts/grade-8-fine-thread-12-20-nyloc-lock-nut-gold-zinc-plated.html (2)
https://www.kartek.com/parts/heim-joints-or-rod-ends-12-20-right-hand-thread-steel-jam-nuts.html(4)

 

Mike, this was what I ordered. Ignore the 8” straps.

 

They just should be cheaper than that. You don't need the chormoly ones. Not seeing it on Kartek though.

I have these.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/limi...trap-by-trail-gear-300773-kit-300774-kit.html

 

Interesting, the ones you ordered were the old part number for the silver Clevis they no longer carry.

As much as I love the black clevis bling this price is much better. Single I guess?

 

Finished the passenger seat tonight. Test fit it and it’s money! I’m so stoked.



Stick was hard. Really hard. The welds look like ass and I definitely blew a hole through one of the mounts but I was able to semi fill it with low amp 6011 rods and some tack/fill techniques. Have I mentioned how much I miss MIG? This is the sadomasochism of the welding world. BUT I was able to weld almost every leg all the way around and I definitely think it will be beefy enough. I started with 6013 in the hopes of pretty welds but I ended up finishing a large part of it with 6011 for the ability to fill the awkward gaps the mounts naturally have. The 6013 just traps way too much slag when there are huge gaps, or I just am bad at using them in those situations. Regardless I’m stoked on completing my first super thin metal project using stick.

Started working on drivers side now:

 

Single.

The other is for mounting multiple straps on one clevis.

 

Hell yea! Have you thought about removing the airbags or will you just leave them in?

BTW those seats originally came from Orlando, FL

 

Nah I just plan on leaving them in. The way I see it is they aren't electrically charged so it should never be an issue. Apparently those seats get around.

Finished the drivers seat last night and got the passenger seat in the other day:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I had a very difficult time tacking this seat in the cab compared to the passenger side. I ended up tacking the first two front legs and felt like I was tilted towards the drivers mirror so I retacked it. In the process of my tacking issues I unfortunately burnt my vinyl floor and had no idea. Poor wet towel placement on my part.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Thankfully it's under the seat.

This showed the inherent issues with the original setup:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

My stick welds went much better this time around. Used mostly 6013 this go around and learned to control the slag better.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Got drivers side primed last night and painted it this morning:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Was left with quite the scrap pile after all was said and done.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Seats are in for good.

 

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Got this far and realized I needed to place an order to super bright LED's to replace the flickering LED. It just was not holding into the housing tight enough. Of course I learned later that I could have done something else and never spent any money at all but where's the fun in that? I did need to replace the LED for the cig lighter plug so it wasn't a total waste.

Since I was waiting I started repacking the shit that need to be in the pockets behind the seats. Well I learned the drivers seat doesn't have a pocket and that's where I stored my winch controller, wire and line sleeve. I put the wire and sleeve under the seat and tried something new for the controller.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I already hit it once getting in and out with that orientation so I flipped it upside down and don't hit it now.

Eventually my order came in and I could finish up the LED work.

I had a couple issues I was trying to fix. I lost the one metal clip for the knob, so I bought replacement knobs from ebay. My hot/cold mixer has not worked ever since I got AC back, and would either be full hot or full cold, and full cold would sometimes get knocked out of place and I would get full hot in the middle of summer. I had a flickering LED, and I always hated the orange lights behind the recirc and AC buttons.

My first issues was I bought NEO3 instead of NEO4. But I was able to take a NEO3 apart and put it into the stock wedges.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I also replaced the entire AC control with one from a 00-02 4runner. So GREEN buttons! AND it fixed the hot/cold issue. Yay.

Everything lit up:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

And everything during the day:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I thought I would hate the chrome on the dials but it actually matches my CB/Stereo/metallic ring on the cig lighter plug so I am okay with it.

Also got some goodies from @eimkeith for an upcoming front end project.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Did some solo exploring near spots I camped at last year, camped and then wheeled Rausch last weekend. It will be my last trip before I rip the front end apart.

@chad_chinchilla got me some good shots of the truck.

Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Had a pretty sketch o shit moment on J, put the slider on a rock and went for a sketch ride that made me smash the gas to get out of it.

Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Some other shots from 13:

Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr


The maxx's flex pretty nice now after 2 years of use:

Rausch by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Updating for my sanity:

Had to give this a little update

 

Can I get some opinions on if this is normal lca bushing play? New lcas and bushings as of 2016.

https://youtu.be/-a3EXyEwd44

 

Started ripping the front end apart this weekend.

Got both sides ripped apart except for the UCA's and LCA's and got the drivers side UCA out this morning.

Driver:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Passenger:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Also tested out my POC @ToyRyd04 and I discussed for Tacoma's that need to run wheel spacers and how to make changing cv's on trails faster. I hate needing to take the lugs off, then the spacers off to get to the axle nut. So I slapped this sucker on to see how it would be to take the CV off with a spacer on.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

The only difficulty I ran into was the cotter pin I use (Not OEM) was waaaaay long, and a pain in the ass to get out. Typically I replace these when I swap a cv, so I think I'll just cut them and replace with custom length slightly shorter ones to make it easier to put it back in.

While I am doing all this I am inspecting play/wear on all the joints.

The OTRE's still hold their position well which was impressive. The inners look like this:

https://youtu.be/vF22KOwrjSg

But @Squeaky Penguin assured me this is normal. The LBJ's do the same as well, they don't hold their position but they don't have any vertical play. I still plan on replacing those and using the current ones as trail spares.

Next I'll be getting the other side UCA out, and pulling the LCA's off.

 

Need the picture of the dust cap that goes back on to keep the hub sealed! even though its a sealed bearing its good to have

 

I think I had it on the previous page but no shots of it on the truck:



Also fuck flickr for rotating my vertical photos sideways. It's driving me nuts.

 

Holy fuck, hate welding prep. Easily worst part about welding.

Got the LCA's pulled, UCA's pulled and everything that I need to get the long bolt in moved. Prepped the towers for welding as well as cut off the sway bar mount on the LCA to prep for the @eimkeith gussets.

This was why I cut them off:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

The gussets look stout and the fit is really amazing.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Here's a comparison of the towers pre and post gusset setups:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Also got out and spent some time in the pines with the homies to take a break from working on the truck:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

And helped a newer guy install some coilovers:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I just need to clean the other tower next and then I can start welding.

 

yeah, welding prep SUCKS. (like, really)

thanks for the kind words about fitment! appreciated!