The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

Keel us posted if possible. Sounds like a stump puller!

 

Was discussing 5.29's with someone and he said to achieve the higher ratios, the pinion gear has to become smaller and will make it the weak point in the driveline. What are people thoughts about this? Hate to break a pinion going rock crawling in moab.

 

To achieve a numerically higher ratio, the pinion does have to get smaller (in relation to the ring). The reason being is because the carrier/housing can't grow in size to accommodate a taller ring gear.

That being said, a smaller pinion head can technically translate to being weaker. But I don't think that it's fair to blame the smaller pinion as the "weak point". I

if your pinion head breaks (not tooth, but neck) then I challenge the setup. Is someone running 40" super swampers on a tiny stock front clamshell with a thin 5.29? And a supercharger under the hood?

If so, I can see how it would break.

If a setup is well balanced (axles, gearing, tire size), I think it will be fine.

 

when I talked to the Nitro gear guy over the phone in the course of deciding between 4.88 and 5.29, that came up, and while it is true, I agree with them that the bigger problem is hanging 35 or 37 inch tires on the ends of a sub nine inch diff. I REALLY doubt I will ever go bigger than 33's. I cant get there on those, I'll find another place to go.

 

Hoping to see a black friday deal from ECGS for the assembled third members.

 

As of now, 5.29 gears from ECGS for complete set is $1400. If you have such a new truck that you dont need new bearings, you can get the gear sets, minor install kits, and clamshell bushing for $902. They usually run a 10% black friday deal on everything but fully assembled thirds. So full set for $1250 or minor set for $810. If you guys send me your diffs, I can do the gear set up for less than $500. If you bring me your truck, I can get it done for less than $750. Some parts you'll want from Toyota is the rear elocker connector, little blue guy that breaks when you look at it for $20. Then you'll want Toyota front and rear pinion seals. Anyone interested, please send me a PM.

 

I can do an assembled front and rear (w/REM) for less than $2k, including gear oil, tax, and return shipping.

Looks like you would be a bit cheaper, but unfortunately I can't afford to have my truck down as it is my only vehicle.

 

The thing with me is that I am cheaper, if scheduled correctly I can be done same day, but I cant offer a warranty. I do stand by my work man ship though.

 

Man I just don't mechanically know that front diff.

Maybe I should start a new thread.

My shop Mule Expedition says that when air locker is installed in front no need to install/replace the needle bearing with the bushing. The air locker somehow takes it out of the equation. Anyone know?

 

Yes, the new carrier replaces the toyota needle bearings so the clamshell bushing isnt needed. If you need to know anything at all about the front clam, let me know and I'll be happy to help.

 

Yes the ARB eliminates the carrier needle bearings in favor of bushings

^Texoma beat me while typing^

 

Good information. Thanks!

 

What's the break in procedure for the front diff? Throw it in 4hi on straight sections of the highway, and change the oil after a month or so?

 

Same as the rear, initial 15-20 min run/cool cycle. Must have 4wd engaged to actually break in, so track your 4wd miles to 500.

 

I am ordering the rear with REM, so wasn't planning on any break-in procedure. Just changing the oil at 500mi and 1000mi.

 

Even with REM, I would highly recommend that you still go through proper Break-in period. Thats what my Shop told me and I did as careful as possible and documented in detail for my peace of mind.

 

Get on ECGS web site and look for Tech Articles. You'll find their explanation of break in procedure. For the front, you must be in 4wd to break in or the R&P wont spin.

 

no kidding

 

You're the one asking questions, I'm trying to give you the best answer.

 

When I asked my shop regarding front diff break-ins, if I should drive in 4High to engage font diffs:

His response: “No, that's not the best idea on pavement. The front diff still spins when you're in 2wd enough to break the bearings in.”