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Help! Truck still pulls when braking

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by graphiti, Nov 11, 2019.

  1. Nov 11, 2019 at 9:17 PM
    #21
    CrippledOldMan

    CrippledOldMan Well-Known Member

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    @CS_AR , for us un educated folks, what are COTS brake parts. I also wonder if the OP needs to do the Pull the emergency brake several times, to force the rear brakes to auto adjust, if I'm stating this correctly. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I won't mind. Also I've never replaced just one caliper, if one is bad, the other one can't be far behind.
     
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  2. Nov 12, 2019 at 1:07 AM
    #22
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    COTS - Commercial Off the Shelf (Common Ordinary). Anything to adjust the rear brakes is worth a try. Same here. I've only replaced calipers, lines, pads, and rotors in sets.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2019
  3. Nov 12, 2019 at 9:10 AM
    #23
    graphiti

    graphiti [OP] Expert Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Unfortunately I do not have ABS :annoyed:
     
  4. Nov 13, 2019 at 6:58 AM
    #24
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    actually in this instance that is a plus... one less thing to figure out. If you are comitted to figuring this out for yourself then purchasing a pressure gauge is in order. with the gauge installed have a helper press the brake pedal and look at the pressure and if it releases suddenly or slowly at each bleed port. compare the 4 corners pressures. with what you are describing if there is a pressure problem then it should be pretty obvious. If the pressures are close enough then there is something else, duh. pull the rear drums and examine the backing plates for grooves that might lock a shoe and see if the shoes are installed correctly, compare side to side. install the drums and adjust the rear shoes until they just drag. as mentioned before, if gear oil contaminated a rear shoe replace the set. While all four wheels are off and with the helper pressing on the brake pedal see if there is adequate volumn of brake fluid at each bleeder. I had to go out and look at my 98 Prerunner - non ABS, to see just how Toyota ran the brake lines. There are splitters and I am wondering if there could be partial blockage at one of those. If none of this solves the issue the only thing that I can think if at this time is that one of the rotor/pad assemblies has a better bite than the other... this is kind of a stretch but I think we are at that point.
     
  5. Nov 13, 2019 at 9:05 AM
    #25
    graphiti

    graphiti [OP] Expert Shade Tree Mechanic

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    Thank you! I was wondering about the splitters...... It really seems like one of the splitters has something wrong with it. I'll be pulling the drums tonight to look at the shoes. I did have an axle seal leak several years ago that is long since fixed (On the drivers side :eek: ), I replaced the whole axle shaft assembly, BUT there is a chance some residual fluid was left over and might have contaminated the new assembly as well. Update tonight to follow. Next up will be the pressure testing you mentioned if nothing else pans out. :frusty::frusty::frusty:
     
  6. Nov 16, 2019 at 12:37 PM
    #26
    graphiti

    graphiti [OP] Expert Shade Tree Mechanic

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    there is substantial fluid flow to each bleeder, so I don't think it's a brake line issue. Each bleeder was able to pull fluid out when bleeding with ease. I also checked both rear brakes and drums and they seem normal with no fluid contamination to either set of brakes. No grooves in the drums either, by the way both drums were replaced last year.

    20191116_113517.jpg
    20191116_113438.jpg
     
  7. Nov 16, 2019 at 12:41 PM
    #27
    graphiti

    graphiti [OP] Expert Shade Tree Mechanic

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    axle seal was leaking, when I went to get the seal replaced they mentioned the axle shaft was bad due to a wheel bearing being bad for a while. I had both replaced.
     
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  8. Nov 16, 2019 at 12:51 PM
    #28
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Do you know midnight?

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    stuff
    Make sure both rear brakes are adjusted correctly
     
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  9. Feb 5, 2020 at 8:05 AM
    #29
    graphiti

    graphiti [OP] Expert Shade Tree Mechanic

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    THE ISSUE IS FINALLY FIXED! It was lower control arm bushings, now drives and brakes perfectly!
     
  10. Feb 5, 2020 at 8:06 AM
    #30
    graphiti

    graphiti [OP] Expert Shade Tree Mechanic

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  11. Feb 5, 2020 at 8:24 AM
    #31
    Tacorific

    Tacorific Well-Known Member

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    A good alignment Tech would have checked the control arm bushings (and other components) for wear, before they did the alignment.
     
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  12. Feb 5, 2020 at 8:53 AM
    #32
    graphiti

    graphiti [OP] Expert Shade Tree Mechanic

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    I finally took it to a professional shop since I don't like playing with compressing struts anymore, last time sucked too much. They discovered the issue right away when attempting to align it.
     
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  13. Feb 5, 2020 at 3:41 PM
    #33
    Windfarmer

    Windfarmer Guest

    I had the same issue... I’d almost bet the farm that your LCA bushings are worn out. Buy new LCA’s and greaseable bushings, go get an alignment. Problem solved
     
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  14. Feb 5, 2020 at 5:33 PM
    #34
    frenchee

    frenchee Favorite Member

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    Yup, I had the same issue a while back and replaced everything under the sun, but the LCA bushings fixed it.

    I barely drive the truck anymore, but as stated in a previous post of mine I think it might have come back. Well see. My tires took a little beating from a bad previous alignment so hard to tell.
     

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