Cant get the F#$% front axle back in *Update, its done*

Good work and good thinking! Keep an eye on it. There is a seal in there that sometimes gets damaged. If its damaged it will leak gear oil where the shaft meets the diff.

Good work!

 

Definitely will keep a look out for it. I checked it right before I slid that axle back in....seems like a little spring around the inside that could get jacked up.

 

Also inspect the rubber boot on the shaft to make sure it did not get ripped during the removal process. You don't want dirt and grime getting inside.

 

Just do a solid axle swap and be done with it!

 

i had a Camry with a rip in the boot. Replaced the CV shaft with a new one. Just be done with it is great advise.

 

The trick when putting the axle back in is to put some grease around the C clip of the axle and then position the C clip center to the axle. The grease allows the C clip to stay in a center position and prevents the C clip from falling down and in return not allowing you to install the axle.

My dad was a mechanic and owned his own auto business for 30 years. He showed me this trick.

 

Come, all, and WITNESS! The resurrection on high. Praise to thee, ECGS thread, for you have returned.

 

Super helpful! Thanks OP, I'm now watching this thread so I can come back to this when I do mine.

 

I know this is old but wanted to know if you had to remove the front of the CV from the hub where the 35mm bolt is or if you just removed the bottom 2 bolts and pivoted the hub with the front of the CV still attached thus giving you enough wiggle room to remove the rear part of the CV from the differential. Ive read you can do this but haven't found much information. Wondering which would be easier. Thanks

 

I think most people pull the whole cv out. I did.

keeping the cv level when reassembling everything is a good tip OP. Definitely helped me get things back together quickly.

 

That’s how I did it - I left the CV attached. The only bolts I removed were the 2 LBJ to knuckle and then the abs line bracket in order to have more room to swing things around. Having a short section of 2x4 to use as a spacer to keep the control arm pivoted away was helpful.
Ultimately I used a heavy screwdriver and hammer on the CV to pound it out and also back in once it was all done and aligned. That was probably the most annoying part - from underneath the truck it’s a big cramped.
There are some helpful videos online and one in particular (sorry I don’t have it saved) detailed the screwdriver/hammer method.
Hope that helps.

 

Thank you for the info, I think I will try Yoricks method and if too difficult will remove entire CV. Can anyone confirm the two lower ball join bolts need to be torqued to 118 lbs?

 

I left the cv in the hub when I did mine.

 

Another trick is to leave the truck in 4WD. When your putting the axle back it will hold the splines and prevent them from turning when you install the axle

 

I've learned that it'll go in easily if you leave the axle nut threaded on and then whack it in with a hammer (C clip pointing down).

I've also learned that if you whack it in with a hammer and DON'T have the axle nut on the end, you'll fuck up the threads and ruin a perfectly good CV axle. Keep the axle nut on

 

Can confirm - the two lower ball joint bolts get torqued to 118 ft/lbs.
good luck with the install!

 

Thanks all for the information. Installing a lift on Sat so figured I might as well do the ECGS bushing at same time. appreciate the quick responses