What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Agreed. This is something we discussed for Mike's truck, his coil bucket cracked basically right where the welds for that top hat would be.

 

Lmfaooooo

 

got me again

 

I'm gonna be careful over here though in this thread, apparently y'all don't like to laugh oe something....is what some dude was saying

 

I see those causing problems if your cams are maxed for caster, like mine are. All the binding and tearing of bushings.

Yep, we've talked about those in the cracking thread, and I already have something similar.

Still pursuing a better setup that goes around the sides of the bucket, and like @cynicalrider said, a crossbrace.

 

We took a close look at these. If they wrapped down the sides a bit, would be better. We are going to fab something that reinforces the top and sides where mine tore.

You make it sound so simple. It is not.

To remove the stock towers means removing the motor mounts perches too. This makes it a major event. Besides, I could not locate an aftermarket tower designed for stock IFS geometry.

 

You're right. I wish it were simple. I guess I was being overly optimistic and thinking in the mindset if I had a full shop, engine hoist, welder(s), CNC/plasma/waterjet tables, etc...

 

If your bushings are fine you can absolutely align your truck with just the SPCs. You won't be able to dial in the castor but you'll be able to jump in increments of the what the spc are. You'll likely want a competent alignment tech if you don't plan on doing it yourself.

The alignment cams adjust both camber and castor. SPCs also adjust both camber and castor. The biggest benefit to them is the camber adjustment so you can max your castor at the LCAs giving you more tire to firewall clearance. Using UCAs to gain castor decreases the distance of tire to firewall.

 

yes.

If only someone made that..

Except he didn't, he just replaced them with OEM ones.

hmm in retro spec, should have done that before installing them. Be easier to mock up.

 

Depending on where they are seized it doesn't matter. I've considered tac welding mine in place since I have no reason to adjust them after maxing them for castor.

 

Not exactly sure what it is you are implying here. As near as I could determine, the only choice was OEM. If you know of any aftermarket options, post up some links.

We'll see how it goes. I believe adding them now wont be a problem.

 

no im just saying the conversation to just upgrade whole coil buckets which requires a ton of cutting and welding doesn't make it worth it is moot since...you have to do that if you have to replace it anyways. Which you had to, so you had to do all that work regardless so it would be nice if there was an upgrade available.

 

I think the whole coilbucket discussion is more or less a moot point to begin with.

A) almost no one on here needs to worry about it
B) if you're at the point in your build where that's an issue, you probably have the knowledge and resources to fix it.

 

So the radiator checks out ok
The top and bottom hoses check out ok
The thermostat was removed and just the gasket was installed
and the results were the engine did not warm up past 130 degrees and
antifreeze movement is seen.

So the radiator and hoes are out of the equation.
That leaves the water pump or thermostat.
So Water pump has to be doing something.

I’ve replaced the thermostat twice plus the original one and all three thermostats
show the engine running 20 degrees hotter than what it normally runs at idle in cold weather.


So do I replace the water pump? Could the water pump be working just part of the time?

Or replace the thermostat a 4th time and see what happens?

When I took it in to the dealer it was 20 degrees out side and my engine temperature was at 195
with the top radiator hose at 190 and the bottom hose at 40-50 degrees and didn’t see any water movement.
I run a 170 stat and my normal temperature is 175-180 max.

 

Bushings are no good. I called Toytec and they are advising against UCAs. They are recommending new bushings.

 

I was reading it could be a timing belt issue where it’s too tight or not aligned properly causing water pump issues. I would have them check the timing belt to make sure it’s not misaligned or too tight. Then i would ask them to redo both the timing belt and water pump. You paid Toyota a lot. So it should be perfect. It’s not the radiator or hoses or anything else. It’s sounding like an install error. That's what I would bet on. It sucks. If you need a ride there, shoot me a text.

 

That sucks man.

 

Ah, yes. I remember doing this. It was actually a fun job, except for removing all the factory deadening material. Some of it came up nice and easy but some of it just didn't want to let go.

 

Here some of what we did to my son's truck since we got it two years ago. It's our project. Then we had a hail storm that totaled it. So I worked out a deal with the insurance company and took $50 less and paid a few bucks out of pocket to get it to stay alive. Just need lower control arms and inner tie rods and it's done.