Beretta4x4 Build and BS thread (gone fishing?)

Ricochet and berm penetration. If they maintain their range correctly, it's not an issue, plus it's not a problem really unless you're indoors. Fudd logic

 

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So, the big post. Installation of a roof rack on a truck not designed for one.

First off, there are at least two manufacturers of roof racks for access cab Tacomas. One of those manufacturers is (was) Prinsu. This rack was based off of that design.

There were several problems. First, the access cab is not fitted to accept roof racks. That means no threads in the roof rails for bolts to bolt a rack to. Second, that means weight is severely limited on what can be held up there. Third, the rack I acquired was built for a dual cab (4-door) Tacoma. This meant considerable fitting and customisation would be needed for it to work.

The first thing that needed to be done was to set it up and approximate how far it hung over the rear of the cab. At its initial setup, it hung around 10 inches past the cab.

That next step was to find a person who was used-to and accustomed to creating new things and could weld aluminum (in this case 5052 aluminum). That person was (and is in my local area @Bigdaddy4760 ) and he is exceptional at that.

Once measurements were taken, marks were made and it was time to start cutting... we both began our individual responsibilities to execute this heavy-duty operation in the least amount of time.

After nearly four hours of work, we were able to fit the newly transformed rack to the cab, drill most of the holes, install riv-nuts and determine weak points in the mounting. Tiger problem that we came across was the quality of the riv-nuts and the ease-of-use of the tool to install them. Both the tool and the riv-nuts were inadequate for the purpose we were using them for.

Side panel on the bench

Maner setting up for cuts

Welding time

Post weld, it looks good

Post weld, post cutting the middle leg of the rack and painting


This required us to use multiple drill bits to fit, destroy and install multiple riv-nuts and stripping out several bolts. This was the longest time-consumer, more so than cutting and welding the rack to fit.

Rack finished, but uninstalled

Test fitting and initial alignment

Some of the holes in my rails


After this time spent, due to the time required to return home, I called it. It wasn't mounted securely, two of the bolts were stripped, four of the bolts were tight, one wasn't doing anything and the last was gone (due to an error in initial installation, the first hole or the driver's rear bolt hole was moot aligned).

Partially bolted-down prior to driving home


Once I arrived at home, I checked the weather. Rain and cold for several days. I needed to remove the rack and seal the roof as much as possible.

The next day i removed the rack and bolts and sealed a much as I could. It ended to be successful and my interior was good to go. Waiting for a clear period, as I'm waiting for time for the silicone and other sealants to cure, took nearly 1 week.

The next post will continue the installation.

 

Fast forward to today. I recieved notification of fantastic weather for the next six days from my weather app. Today was the day I'd complete the rack.

Firsts thing I did was pull out the drill and needle-nose pliers and destroy the seal I made before. (Sadly, I forgot to take pictures until I was done)

After the removal of material, I made an assessment of what was needed to get this rack installed. I raked to several members here, including @Texoma and others, but the general consensus is usa and application intended sealants. Using several RTV/thread lockers and other chemical binders, I started filling the holes, smothering the threads, gluing the nuts and generally smearing greasy, sticky sealants everywhere.

GOOD NEWS!

My wife was willing to break a sweat and we aligned and bolted down the rack. Ideally, I would have used 1/4"-28x2.5" bolts and Nylok (as that is what my local hobby store had in 1/4" bolt size) but, locally, they didn't have enough to execute the installation.

I was able to use 1/4"-20x2.5" stainless bolts and 1/4"-20 Nylok stainless from Home Depot to fulfill the installation.

The original hardware for the installation used 1/4"-24 (or 28) bolts, about 2.25" length and stainless.

After acquiring the Nyloks and new bolts, it was a very short effort to install.

To make room for the bolts in this rack, one thing I noticed was the rear two bolts. On the access cab, the side-curtain airbags are in the way. The rear two bolts need to be, not should, but need to be no longer than 2.25" in order to clear the airbags and to clear (the airbag brackets and hardware) installation holes and bolts correctly. That leaves you nearly no room for fitment for the method I used to bolt the rack down.

I used the 1/4"-20x 2.5" bolt, followed by a 1/4" lock washer, followed by a 1/4"x1" washer into the rack, pushed up by a 1/4"x1" spacer then the body of the roof. Under the roof, I used a 1/4"x3/4" washer and a 1/4"-20 Nylok washer with all hardware smothered in sealants, thread lockers and silicone.

View of the repair and installation


Rack installed


Overhead/banked View of truck with rack installed


I have yet to fit the rain gutters to this setup.

 

Great write up and better work for the both of ya. Very impressive

 

Thanks, that's last Saturday lol. We were busy.

 

Great job Josh!! Edit rack is made out of 5052
You did all the hard work.

 

You did the experienced/complicated work.

And corrected...

 

@BassAckwards @05prerun82

 

Nice write-up Josh

 

Thanks, Brandon.

 

Outstanding write up Josh!
Rack was well worth the work!
Thank you for sharing your experience with us!

 

Maner like yea it was me who welded it up

 

Hey Brandon

 

Maner can't sleep

 

I'm trying to but this damn driving keeping me awake

 

Been sleeping on an off all day

 

You get sick from this African sand in the air

 

It's been making alot of people sick