The NorthStar AGM Battery + Voltage Booster Upgrade

@crashnburn80 what is the dip settings again for .4 vs .5? Apologies I'm blind and tried to find it again and I lost the damn paper.

 

I don't think you can get to .5 with the dip switch model. Each dip switch is +0.2V so the first two dip switches will get you to 0.4V and a third would get you to 0.6V

 

I'll take that .4 you smart bastard you

 

As mentioned it is 0.2v increments. Below is shown at 0.8v, so for 0.4v you’d want the first 2 switches in the down position, and the last 3 up.

 

Thank you sir.

 

The aluminum plate has threaded holes to receive the noco unit and clearance holes underneath the charger to allow bolts into the stock mounting holes available in the fender wall.

 

@crashnburn80 I read your Bluetooth monitor went out. Surprise surprise mine went out too.

 

Yeah, cheap China goods. It did its job for what I really needed though, to understand the voltage over time and correctly calibrate the charge voltage.

 

I was using it to monitor my solar setup. Actually worked out pretty well. Till it just died after my camping trip

 

Yeah I did really like the functionality while it lasted, it was a pretty slick device. Till it died.

 

I looked at their website and it looks to me like yours would still be good to go according to the specs they list.

 

After 3 weeks of waiting...

this thing is heavy, glad I decided against the size 31.

 

I picked up one of those instead of a Bluetooth battery monitor cause I’m cheap. Compared to my cheap multimeters it’s within maybe 0.05v, so not bad for the price and let’s me monitor the voltage while driving.

Cold start voltage


After running for 5 minutes

 

Hello,
I've been looking to replace the Truestart 27F on my '15 DCSB O/R, 4.0, Auto, tow package with an AGM battery. A friend of mine recommended the Northstar 27F & this post. Thank you @crashnburn80

I've read a couple of pages here so far but my current stock battery is low so I need to make a decidion in the next couple of days. I see the 27F Northstar has excellent reviews but it's a bit pricey. The Northstar 94R costs $60 less, is 11 lbs lighter, is more "available" here in Miami, FL and though not as powerful as the 27F it still offers 130 CCA's more than my non-agm 27F Truestart battery. Also, will the OE battery tie-down work with either of these 2 batteries? If not, any recommendations on aftermarket ones? Other than the 400W anytime mod I also plan to add a 1000W pure sine wave inverter and that's it. My previous truck ('08 4.0 Prerunner) had a 1000W inverter as well & ran with a stock battery with no issues but this truck will see a bit more use. Battery specs below. So, 27F or 94R?
Thank you

• Item Number: SLI27FAGMDP Item Number: SLI94RAGMDP
• Brand: X2Power Brand: X2Power
• Format: BCI Group 27F Format: BCI Group 94R
• Lead Acid Type: Deep Cycle, Lead Acid Type: Deep Cycle,
• Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling), Starting Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling), Starting
• Cold Cranking Amps: 930 Cold Cranking Amps: 840
• Battery Type: Ultimate Battery Type: Ultimate
• Chemistry: Lead Acid Chemistry: Lead Acid
• Color: Blue Top Capacity 20hr: 81AH
• Lead Acid Design: AGM Cranking Amps: 1030
• Made in the USA: True Lead Acid Design: AGM
• Product Category: Auto/Light Truck Made in the USA: True
• Product Sub Category: Premium AGM Maintenance Free: Yes
• Terminal Type: SAE, Automotive Post Product Category: Auto/Light Truck
• WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - Pro Terminal Type: SAE, Automotive Post
• Warranty: 60 Month Free Replacement Warranty: 60 Month Free Replacement
• Weight: 66.95 lbs Weight: 55.75 lbs
• Length: 12.46 in Length: 12.4 in
• Width: 6.77 in Width: 6.9 in
• Height: 8.75 in Height: 7.4 in
  
  
  
  

 

You won't go wrong with Northstar - expensive, but worth it. Most Tacoma owners who choose Northstar seem to stick with either 27F or 24F, with some choosing Group 31. I remain happy with my 27F, as does my son with a 24F in his 1st Gen.

I'm not familiar with the 94R but, based on the specs you listed, it should work for your application. That said, I recommend looking at a 24F as slightly smaller/lighter/less expensive alternative to the 27F...

27F
Terminal configuration SAE
Terminal illustration
Pulse cranking amps 1750 A
CCA rating at -18°C (0°F) 930 A
CA/MCA rating at 0°C (32°F) 1080 A
Reserve capacity 195 min
Capacity - 20 hour rate (1.75 vpc) 92 Ah
Warranty 4 years full
Height 8.75 in
Width 6.77 in
Length 12.44 in
Weight 68 lbs


24F
Terminal configuration SAE
Terminal illustration
Pulse cranking amps 1500 A
CCA rating at -18°C (0°F) 840 A
CA/MCA rating at 0°C (32°F) 1000 A
Reserve capacity 160 min
Capacity - 20 hour rate (1.75 vpc) 76 Ah
Warranty 4 years full
Height 8.75 in
Width 6.77 in
Length 10.87 in
Weight 57 lbs

My stock tie-down wasn't long enough for the Northstar 27F, so I went with one of Coupe's TRD Battery Hold Downs that came with an extended rod.

 

So I'm picking up my Grp 27 XP from batteriesplus this week, I've got a JEGS 27 tray to replace the OEM tray on my 2018 OR. I think i've found a solution for charging these batteries since I'm planning to add a 2nd Grp 31 agm battery in the bed of my truck. The CTEK D250sa is an onboard DC to DC charging solution that isolates your 2nd battery while charging your auxiliary at the proper voltage. The cool thing is it has a solar input that can take any 12v source up to 500watts and backfeed the system when the vehicle isn't running. It'll charge the auxillary to capacity first, then the starting. I'll be mounting a Meanwell waterproof 12v 320 watt LED driver to power in to that solar connection that will serve as shore power when at home. It'll keep everything topped off easily and can be used on the go as well. Service from the front to the back will be over 1/0 welders cable with an anderson plug at the rear for servicing the D250, and then if I need a jump from that 2nd battery, I can just unplug it and plug it to the 2nd batt. I'll also have 4 guage wire going to a BlueSea 6 port circuit on a 100amp breaker to serve all lighting and auxillary needs. A 1500 watt inverter will be hardwired with an anderson plug that can connect to that dedicated heavy 1/0 coming off the auxillary battery.

 

Thank you for that info

 

Darn. Just read 18 pages to realize no one has figured out the 3rd gen yet.

 

No dice, as of now. I actually bought the adjustable voltage booster and intercepted the “alt-s” line which now runs to the ECU and installed an in-line fuse holder that would accept the booster. No difference. I have not been successful in finding a charging schematic for the 3rd gen that shows all wiring details in its entirety. The FSM has quite a bit of information, but not all. If anyone has any ideas, or stumbles upon the honey pot, feel free to share.

edit: if you look back in this thread, I’ve provided the pertinent pages I sourced from the FSM. One concern that has not yet been an issue since I have not been able to boost the voltage, is that anything above 14.6vdc is out of spec for the charging system. I was not able to find any literature that stated what occurs (CEL possibly?) when this condition is observed by the PCM.

 

I would help if I could, but alot of this is Greek to me. I will say that it is possible an overvoltage state may set a CEL. I've seen it on other cars.