Rustproof or not??

thanks, i have probably another estimated six months of frame mod before i can use much of anything because i cannot paint over it!
i was already told by someone in CA that i screwed up spraying FF on the near naked steel with a zinc coating
and it maybe difficult to get the FF removed completely so that I can primer and topcoat it make it near good as good can get
pricey is pricey, i think i have more than $1000 already into just tools and equipment to DIY fix my old tired tacoma

 

It seems to me Toyota is doing better than the domestic manufacturers on corrosion resistance for trucks. In these parts (SE Wisconsin) I see lots of pickups with rot around the wheel wells, cab corners, etc.
Ram is the worst. I'm pretty sure the fenders rot out before the last payment is made.

Compared to cars and SUV's trucks are way behind in general. Go look at the wheel wells of an SUV and you will see a complete plastic inner fender. That keeps the wheel spray off the body and frame. No go look at the back wheel well of a pick up. Small or no inner fender, bare frame, springs etc. Thats is a big reason they rot out so fast.

Also I believe most unibodies are dipped after welding. That gets the primer/prep coating into all the crevices keeping corrosion at bay.

It's really BS considering how expensive trucks are.

 

I used fluid film and got most of the frame but probably going to jack it up again to check before the snow is here.

 

What’s the best way to prep for an undercoating? My guess would be a low velocity rinse via a garden hose and gentle brush....

..... I decided to use Fluid film and have a new truck (2000 miles) but we have had snow already so a prep is needed....

 

If it's a new truck and now there's likely salt on the metal, I'd just rinse the undercarriage and let it dry for a day or so. Some places spray fluid film over a wet frame but I prefer it to be dry.

 

That’s what I was thinking .

 

If truck is already covered in salt or dirty, power wash it off and let drip dry. Bone dry is best of course but the 3 combinations below will displace water anyways so it does not really mater.

ACF-50 fogged on EVERYWHERE except friction surfaces. Followed by Fluid Film or Rust Check Green in high water spray areas. (what I do)
OR
Mavcoat OR Formula 3000 everywhere except friction surfaces and your engine bay and rads.
Or
Rust Check Red on low water spray areas everywhere, and Rust check Green on high water spray areas. Avoid friction surfaces and rubber parts.

Are the 3 top systems, in order, from my experience. Chemical as well barrier protections.
All should be re-applied in the fall when it's still warm out.

Fluid Film is an excellent Barrier/Encapsulation product and works great on its own.
But is not "the best" on its own. Plus is messy and smells like a farm.

Then during the salt months I give the underside and wheel wells a light rinse at the coin-op wash and a light spray with the wax as it helps with the crap buildup on the underside to not stick so much. No icebergs in my wheelwells. No rust on my truck.

 

Please don't blame Canada for Krown, please.... (not sure if it's CDN or not). We do have Krown, but the smart people go for Corrosion Free, which is in Canada and New York State..... I've used it for 25 yrs. and it's great.

 

does that need to be applied annually?
i am looking into it, thanks!

 

this video test shows that Krown is JUNK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXlhmbvdKBo

 

I used krown for 4 winters here in the north east coast of Canada and the underside of my ram sport at the time did not have one spec of rust. I have many family members and friends who use krown with the same results. I trust these direct results on vehicles over this simple YouTube test. I now use rust check because a 5 gallon container was on sale last year for $110 and it has very similar results

 

the video did have the product tested on an unpainted surface so maybe it makes a difference

 

Depends what version you buy...… They generally suggest every 18 mo's. I do it yearly because of the seasons.... Apply in fall.

Good warranty if you keep the applications as per the warranty; however, I don't think you need warranty if you pay attention to it. and get-er-done as needed...!!

The warranty will replace broke brake lines, parking break lines, fuel lines,...etc, etc. No questions asked.

I've had "(0)" squeaks and rattles and I attribute it to Corrosion Free.

Also...Mice do not eat the wires...!!

Hope you can find it "down there"... Good Luck

 

not sure about that 'warranty' lol ... my truck is 22.5 years old!

this piece from their website is very important in my area of the central US
https://corrosionfree.com/
TEMPERATURE CHANGES
Temperature fluctuations accelerate corrosion. Trapped moisture mixed with road salt/de-icing fluids only needs warmth to cook the rot.

it can go from the single digits to the 50s Fahrenheit in just a weeks time + Humidity
i have always looked at my black truck out in the driveway or garage with a thin coat of white glaze on it
the next day after it warms up all the glaze is gone! guess what happened, turned to liquid salt again

 

HA<ha... Guess they will not warranty that beast. If you want to STOP rust do it. By the way this stuff goes into seams and pushes the H20 right out of there. The stuff "travels" from inside doors and pushes out water and starts going up the outside of the doors...

You may only want to get the spray cans and do the areas of concern on your relic.

 

Dropped off truck to the dealer this morning. Explained to the guy on the service desk that the undercarriage looks dry - like the undercoating wasn't done. He proceeds to tell me they don't apply undercoating to the undercarriage. After I short WTF moment I ask to speak with the service manager.

The service manager tells me they'll look after it. They'll do the rear diff with a clear coat (same stuff they use on the body panels) and reapply the undercoating to any other areas that need to be touched up. I also asked for them to inspect and see if there's any indication that the undercoating was actually done in the first place. He says sometimes the undercoating hardens and flakes off. He seems honest and has been good to deal with so I'm hoping they'll get it right this time.

 

If it hardens and flakes off don't ever put it on your truck. I live in Nova Scotia, so similar climate and anything that hardens will dry out and moisture gets behind the coating and rots the metal out from behind. Seen this many times over the years. Rust check out krown will not do this and is your best bet. My 4runner after 4 winters was still rust free underneath using rust check

 

I find that VERY hard to believe.....ever.

 

Huh? Use a scotch brite pad, sand paper or wire brush or prep like you would any other metal surface before painting. The stuff is just a film it's not like it etches.

 

hopefully its a simple removal of FF that i was attempting to prevent any flash rust, and does not get buggy in any pitted surfaces
anyways i will need to re-blast a number of areas that i did not get fully cleaned on the passenger side last month and go from there