How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

mattstakilla · Nov 18, 2019

Thanks so much for this write up. It was literally on point for all of the hardware needed and everything. Ended up having to pick up a impact wrench from Harbor Freight to help with that staked nut.

Only problem is, I still feel my shake at low speeds. Gonna take a look at the suspension and steering next. I had brought my truck to 3 separate shops since I've had it, and all 3 advised carrier bearing replacement.

Wondering if I should bring it in and have them re-evaluate, or try and diagnose myself based off a good write up over on yota tech forums about front end vibrations. Either way, my carrier bearing still needed to be replaced, so it wasn't a complete waste even if the vibration continues.

Gonna check out UBJ, LBJ, TR, and wheel bearings next and see if anything looks worn/needs replacement.

Fatal_Paradox · Nov 18, 2019

Check your Rear Trans Mount while you're in there.

Wulf · Nov 18, 2019

mattstakilla said: ↑

Thanks so much for this write up. It was literally on point for all of the hardware needed and everything. Ended up having to pick up a impact wrench from Harbor Freight to help with that staked nut.

Only problem is, I still feel my shake at low speeds. Gonna take a look at the suspension and steering next. I had brought my truck to 3 separate shops since I've had it, and all 3 advised carrier bearing replacement.

Wondering if I should bring it in and have them re-evaluate, or try and diagnose myself based off a good write up over on yota tech forums about front end vibrations. Either way, my carrier bearing still needed to be replaced, so it wasn't a complete waste even if the vibration continues.

Gonna check out UBJ, LBJ, TR, and wheel bearings next and see if anything looks worn/needs replacement.
Click to expand...

Have you checked your u joints? Tires balanced?

mattstakilla · Nov 18, 2019

Fatal_Paradox said: ↑

Check your Rear Trans Mount while you're in there.
Click to expand...

Will do. Any pointers/good videos on what I'm looking for when checking this?

mattstakilla · Nov 18, 2019

Wulf said: ↑

Have you checked your u joints? Tires balanced?
Click to expand...

Ujoints were inspected/replaced by Mesa DriveShaft.
Tires were the first thing I had checked out by Discount. Full rotation/balance performed on tires. Have not had an alignment done yet, but the tires are close to end of life. I will be replacing them by end of year and getting an alignment done as well.

jacksj1 · Jan 8, 2020

TacomaJPP[OP] initial post: ↑

How to change carrier bearing on 2003 Toyota Tacoma Extended Cab 4wd.

Safety blurb: Be sure to chock your tires. Don’t do anything stupid. If you do something stupid and kill yourself or your truck, don’t blame me. You’re responsible for your own actions and if you are desperate enough to read a “how to” on the internet, then you assume all responsibility for the outcome. Let’s get started.

Tools Required:
-14mm wrench (x2)
-17mm wrench (I didn't, you may need it)
-Torque wrench (capable of 51, 54, and 134 ft-lbs)
-24mm socket
-Impact wrench
-Jack Stand
-14mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive)
-Bench vise
-PB Blaster or other loosening lubricant
-Dead blow hammer
-Flathead screwdriver (for staking nut)
-Jaw puller

Parts Required:

Toyota Carrier Bearing Part Number:

$141 37230-35130 Toyota Clutch Bearing - 37230-35130

37230-35130

Purchased from www.partznet.com - Price $147

Factory Service Manual Documents:

See attached located at the bottom of this post.

Symptoms: I experienced some vibrations in the mid 60 mph range. I also noticed a very slight “popping” sound at high gear / low rpm situations. Moreover, the video below shows how much play was in my worn carrier bearing. I estimate it to be about ½” of total play. After I installed the new one, I had less than 1/8” of play.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtBHKHGa8Fo

To begin, we will only have to remove the front half of the propeller shaft. The back half (the part that goes from the carrier bearing to the rear differential will not have to be removed).

Step 1 – Mark the alignment of the transmission output shaft flange to the U-joint carrier assembly. See pic below.

Step 2 – Loosen the 4, 14mm bolts on the transmission output shaft flange. The nut uses a 14mm wrench. I did not have to back the head of the bolt because they seemed to be froze. However, if you do, it uses a 17mm wrench. Break-torque is 54 ft-lbs. A ratchet was too difficult to use in loosening these bolts. I suggest using a wrench only. If you can’t get to some of the bolts, you may have to roll your truck a foot or two. I removed all of the bolts except one. I left it in (but loose) so that it wouldn’t fall on my head.

Step 3 – Mark the alignment of the flange to the rear propeller shaft front U-joint carrier.

Step 4 - Loosen the 4, 14mm bolts on the rear propeller shaft front U-joint carrier. Both the nut and bolt head use a 14mm wrench. Again, I suggest using wrenches and not a ratchet/socket. These were so tight that I had to use a ¾” wrench as an additional breaker bar by doubling it up on the14mm wrench. Break torque is 54 ft-lbs.

Step 5 – Insert floor jack under the rear half of the propeller shaft. You don’t have to support it at this point, just put it underneath it.

Step 6 – Loosen the two carrier bearing bolts.

Step 7 – The driveshaft should come out now. You may have to use some PB Blaster and a dead blow hammer to get the U-Joint carriers to break free from the flanges. Be sure to support the rear half of the propeller shaft with your jack stand.

Step 8 – Take your drive shaft with carrier bearing to your work bench. Place the drive shaft in your bench vise. Please note, be very careful in how much you tighten the vise onto the shaft. You do not want to warp it. I also wrapped my driveshaft in some scotch bright pads (for friction) and some rubber (for protection).

Step 9 – The flange must be removed in order to get the carrier bearing off. To remove the flange, you must un-stake the nut. Take a small screwdriver and hammer under the staked-over metal. Pry the metal up slightly being careful not to over-pry it. I re-used this nut. Break-torque is 134 ft-lbs. I used an impact wrench to remove it.

Step 10 – Remove carrier bearing by using a jaw puller. I didn’t have one. Neither did Advance, O’Reilly, or AutoZone in my town. Fortunately, one of my friends did. I removed it at his house and forgot to take my camera. However, it is quite simple. Pictured below is the type of jaw puller I used. I ended up hooking to the assembly and pulled it off. The rubber tore from the actual carrier bearing, leaving the bearing on the shaft. No worries. Use the jaw puller to hook to the bearing and pull it off too. This took about 2 minutes. Note, the jaw puller should have jaws about 6” long.

Here’s a good video of a guy doing this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96Tx-vklCYw

Step 11 – Now that the old carrier bearing has been removed, slide new one on. Be sure to put it on in the correct orientation. The correct orientation is pictured below:

Step 12 – Be sure that you replace the washers and nut back on in the correct order of removal. Place the nut back on the shaft and tighten to 134 ft-lbs. This seats the bearing properly.

Step 13 – Loosen the nut and then re-torque to 51 ft-lbs. After it is torqued properly, stake the nut by using a screw driver and ballpeen to tap the nut back over the cut-out in the shaft.

Step 14 – Take the drive shaft assembly back under the truck and re-install in order of removal making sure to take note of all of the flange orientations and re-aligning your marks. I recommend loosely tightening everything up until all of your bolts are in. You may have to push truck forward/backward a little to get everything to line up. Torques for the 8, 14mm bolts are 54 ft-lbs.

Step 15 – You must align your carrier bearing. I did so by noting where it was before because of the dirt line. Once it is centered, tighten it up.

Step 16 – Double check every bolt to make sure it is tight.

Tags: Carrier bearing center support bearing vibe vibration shutter shake propeller shaft driveshaft drive how to howto removal remove replace replacement
Click to expand...

Great write up! Getting ready to do the carrier on my 01 TRD Xtra cab 4x4 so I appreciate the detail!

Wulf · Feb 6, 2020

Does 5/8"-18NF sound right for the driveshaft thread pitch at the carrier bearing? Threads are fuxked on mine

Jazzalou1 · Apr 30, 2020

Great great write up, I’m at 300,800 miles original bearing been greasing it regularly no noise. Do you think it’s safe to say I’m overdue? Or wait for the vibs and noises to start? Anyone’s thoughts? I try to stay ahead of things that will fail

02dubcab · Apr 30, 2020

I’ve had 3 first gens all of which have needed this to be replaced.

glandnut · May 17, 2020

Dirty Pool said: ↑

Toyota calls them "spacers", there are two. One on each side of the drive flange.
From the support bearing inner race rearward it goes...........race>spacer>drive flange>spacer>nut
Click to expand...

I know this is an old post to quote, but after taking my original carrier apart today on my 01' Extended cab 4x4@233k my spacers were NOT on each side of the drive flange as described above. Both were stacked between the center bearing and the splined drive flange.
Mine was.......carrier bearing>spacer>spacer>drive flange>thick washer>nut. Just like this scan below.

Figured this may help when someone takes theirs apart. The pdf's on page 1 of this thread of the FSM are about as clear as mud to me too. There is zero mention of the thick washer(37120A) under the staked nut.

TacoTaco02 · Jul 17, 2020

Replacing the center bearing right now. Can anyone tell me the torque spec for the nut you have to stake?
ASAP

37120b in the image posted above

glandnut · Jul 17, 2020

Tighten to 134 ftlbs, then loosen and tighten to 51 ftlbs, then stake it.

Dylwhit · Jul 29, 2020

I replaced mine in October and I feel like its squeaking already when i accelerate. Anyone else have this problem after install?

Dylwhit · Aug 31, 2020

Is there any way to tell if your carrier bearing is genuine OEM? I just ordered one and it came in a tampered with package with a nice little note stating that I cant return it unless it is in its original packaging. No part number or toyota stamp or anything to distinguish this from a knock off. Im not very impressed and it just feels wrong....

BrokenBo · Oct 31, 2020

Hey all! I just picked up my DS from the shop after having them press on the CB. I noticed that the arrows are now facing the rear vs the front. Is this a major issue? It’s a pain in the ass to go back so I was gonna put the DS in anyway. Is the 5002007 spicer bearing directional?

02dubcab · Oct 31, 2020

Not sure if the bearing is direction but if you have a normal 2 piece driveshaft you can just mark the flange and unbolt at the carrier bearing and flip it around. I have done 2 and both times they came off without a press, same for going back on.

Akl406 · Mar 3, 2021

Hey guys.
Have a question! It’s for those of you that have used the Spicer bearing. Is the Spicer still holding up and are you happy with it so far? Need to replace mine and OEM is pretty much 200 bucks but from what I read Spicer is the same thing?
Thanks!

OpeCity · Mar 3, 2021

Akl406 said: ↑

Hey guys.
Have a question! It’s for those of you that have used the Spicer bearing. Is the Spicer still holding up and are you happy with it so far? Need to replace mine and OEM is pretty much 200 bucks but from what I read Spicer is the same thing?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

My spicer (

$94 211750-1x Center Bearing

211750-1x) came with toyota info molded into the rubber. $66

Blue92 · Mar 3, 2021

Akl406 said: ↑

Hey guys.
Have a question! It’s for those of you that have used the Spicer bearing. Is the Spicer still holding up and are you happy with it so far? Need to replace mine and OEM is pretty much 200 bucks but from what I read Spicer is the same thing?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

I used the spicer. Have had it on for almost 3 years/50k miles with no complaints.

Kevins60 · Mar 4, 2021

OpeCity said: ↑

My spicer (

$94 211750-1x Center Bearing

211750-1x) came with toyota info molded into the rubber. $66
Click to expand...

ditto. $66.50 on Amazon

Edit to add some lessons learned. 1) once you remove the stake nut, be sure you have match marks on the flange and shaft. I didn’t, the flange fell off as I was carrying the driveshaft to the workbench and I’m still not 100% sure I have it lined up correctly. 2) an impact wrench is your friend. 3) keep track of the spacers, what side of the center bearing they came from and the order they are in.

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How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

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How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

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Wulf no brain just damage

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glandnut Reserve Squirrel Hair

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