Rustproof or not??

I am pretty sure that is the stuff that zeibart used and gave undercoating a bad rap... Do you still have that 2012?

 

For the door drains I'm actually going to be using the stuff I use on my jet ski.



It's expensive but works very well. My '07 ski that's ridden in salt water looks brand spanking new because I hit literally everything with this. It's hydrophobic so water (and dirt) will be able to roll right out of the door jams.

I don't think it would last long enough on the underside as it's very thin. Works for the ski because it's small and I apply after every ride.

 

I traded it in for a 2018 TRD PRO. Awesome truck.

 

I would say you traded it just in time... there seems to be near universal consensus here and elsewhere that spray on bed liner or rubberized undercoating (basically anything that runs the risk of separating from the back and making a void between the material and the frame metal) will inevitably rot your vehicle from the inside. Just my two cents (and many others) but hey you do you.

 

i was misled that Colorado is corrosion free outside of normal snow and sand

 

i am curious as to how the CF stuff works to repel dirt and sand,etc.
this FF i experimented with is an icky mess of slmiy dirt that had not washed off

some pics of what yours looks like would be helpful before I hit them up for $300 for a gallon + a cool atomizer spray gun with the wands!

thank you! i have had it for a very long time
i am just worried about the crunchy feeling behind the fuel tank and exhaust area that are the hardest spots to reach

and i did park it overnight in Canada once in 2000 in Sault Ste. Marie for the train ride to Hearst ... summer not winter!

 

DIY wands aren’t synonymous with Power Washing. At least not in my area

Californian (transplant) teaching rustproofing..

 

Is that a question? Maybe due to the amount of FF you put in...

 

Haha funny. I grew up in Ohio where many of my vehicles suffered from the salt.

 

What I do is go to a DIY place and only use the pressure washer on the body and when it comes to wheel wells just do a quick rinse (without pulling the trigger). I don’t plan to spray the bottom at all until the next time I’m gonna reapply fluid film, and even then I don’t think I’m gonna try that hard to get the old stuff off... trying to build layers.

 

I'm a big fan of krown. I just did my 5th treatment/ 5th year yesterday. There is hardly any rust whatsoever on my 2010 frame. It also seems to keep all moving parts like your doors, gas cover door, tailgate etc in mint condition. There isn't a single creak on my truck when a door opens. Everything moves as smooth as butter. I Noticed that there are a lot of 2nd gens locally with missing gas doors. I think they corrode/ open very hard and eventually rip off. Just a local observation.

 

That is because everything gets a bit rust.. pull of our wheel and you have rust there. Do not drive for a day and your disk brakes show rust. I do apologize if I gave people more credit for determining the difference between the pics shown in the thread and what I was talking about.

I never had the amount of corrosive damage on any of my F150's as shown in these pictures... of course my dad has never had this amount either on his Tacoma's he has had since it came out (95). The only difference I am gathering in this thread is salt/brine, which is not only destructive to your vehicle but the environment and in this day and age I was shocked they still use it.

 

i do have some pics of what that rubbery stuff did to mine over 20+ years
it all came off this past year revealing stuff i had not ever seen hidden under it
the worse spot found was by the cat on passenger side

it all sand blasted right off fairly easily, just surface stuff it seemed

 

Definitely could have been worse. Quality of the frame metal, frame coating, and how much shock/torsion the frame experiences probably plays a part in if the rubberized or thick tar stuff/bed liner will kill your frame in 5 or 20 years... But why risk it? Masking a problem is not really a solution. But then again what does it matter if you turn over vehicles every 5 years as some do... But why bother at all in that case?

 

i am sure that when my Toyota dealer salesguy had me into this 'weather undercoating' package (or whatever it was called then) the future frame problems were unknown at the time!
but i suppose they still try to sell this stuff with new vehicle purchases

 

No it wasn't a question. I've been FF forever, never had an issue with a clogged hole. Seems common sense that if the hole does seem clogged you would... Clear it out.

 

For doors (and also rocker panels), I use WD40, spraying with the nozzle, up through the weep holes.

 

Yes, I abandoned FF and now use their sprayer and wands to coat mine with heavy weight differential grease. I think it stays on better than FF when running through the spray washes during the winter months. It sprays almost identical to FF, so works well inside the frame rails, etc.

 

Was told that the Toyota Platinum Shield Protection package uses First Canadian Protection Products - in Canada anyways. Looks like the Diamond Kote product but can't find enough details to compare.

 

So I just read this entire thread.....

what are the options for applying Fluid film aka FF?

I know there is the spray cans but I am talking the gallon stuff?

Did someone mentioned an inexpensive Harbor Freight option?