3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights

Memories. I had Cibie Bobie’s on a new 1980 Z28

 

So I didn't realize you have to trim both the wire harness and the metal tabs on the bulb. I was thinking h9 would be plug and play after trimming the harness but this is not the case. If I were to do it again I would not have bought the wire harness.

Looking forward to more light on tomorrow's drive.

 

Actually, I tried to insert the H9 high beam bulbs in my lows to test fit and it went in without any trimming of the metal tabs. You kinda have to insert it an angle with one tab first and align the other tabs and twist and it will locked in. But I ended up installing the GE +130 H11 after all.

 

I should be getting a loaner set from another one of TW's lighting enthusiasts. I standardize all tests and log all the data in an extensive integrated lighting database allowing quick and easy comparisons between any lights I've ever tested. But in order to do this, I need the lights removed from the vehicle.

I know @Too Stroked used to run classic Cibies back in the day as well.

You shouldn't have to trim the metal tabs for mounting. Did you use Philips bulbs? The angle is certainly a bit more tricky than stock H11s, but they will fit without trimming the metal tabs. Personally I would not buy the wiring harness either, as it adds more wire and resistance and it takes me less than a minute to modify the bulb base tab with a pocket knife. But for those that do not want to modify the bulb, it is a reasonable solution.

 

Not sure, I couldn't get it to fit without trimming the metal. Used the Phillips h9 bulb from Amazon.

 

My dude. I don't own a third gen, but I do want to say, bravo on all your hard work documenting this bible long OP for all the third genners to enjoy!

It's good to know others here are just as passionate about making good, informative and well educated posts to keep this site as informational as possible. Keep up the great work @crashnburn80

 

Never had the Bobi's but did have the Euro "Z" beams and also had the still relevant 5-1/4 inch H1 bulbed pencil beam high beams. Holy crap. Now there was a light where alignment made a huge difference. And still have the Bosch H4 German OEM Porsche 911 lights in my 911 until I get the time to retrofit the Hella Bi-LED v2 into those buckets. There's a several thousand dollar project and I will never ever put Morimoto in that car. It's a really tight fit with the Hellas but they are the best light available for that application.

 

ProComp 9911's on my 2007 Colorado. They're 9 inch reflectors with 55 watt H11 bulbs. BRIGHT !!

 

The testing you did was on the latest design correct? Can you provide a link? I've been looking for them but when I compare with your pictures they look slightly different.

 

Yup, I was running Cibie Z Beams way back in 1978. I should have kept them when I sold the car. They're worth good money these days!

 

Well I'm sure that you're right as far as my 2019 goes and likely other Tacoma generations H9 to H11 low beam conversions. The H9's large metal tab has an offset that's opposite of the offset of the H11's large tab. I've read here of someone managing to get one in but it sounded forced, which means you're having to cock either the large tab or the smaller tabs and force it into the socket (probably bending the tab and cutting into the cast aluminum socket housing in my 2019). The difference in the metal tab offset is quite obvious in this video at 3:39 and clearly shows why the H9 tab should be trimmed at the side with the thinner metal before trying to insert into the H11 low beam socket:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY1kaMRVz8o&t=219s

 

I'm chomping at the bit to see these results, especially compared to other options out there. I've got the Xtravision +100, but I'm saving pennies and dimes for the OEM HID, because I'm a silly ricer at heart and like the LED look, but I'm curious to see what they actually can do.

 

Installed! Decided to go with the Hyluxtek 35W kit with Morimoto 5500k bulbs - and what a difference! I was previously running XD LEDs, and while I was initially impressed, the lack of throw became pretty evident when I was driving on country roads and there wasn't any ambient light (street lights etc).

I was initially hesitant about the additional wiring, but honestly, the biggest concern isn't the installation, because everything is labelled pretty well and is essentially plug and play - making everything look nice and clean is the most time consuming part!

I still worry about longterm reliability, I'm using the optional relay harness, but I still worry about a ballast or bulb going out at the wrong time (I'm kept my old halogens as a backup).

If you decide to go with the 35w Hyluxtek kit from TRS, be warned they use an integrated Canbus error canceller, which also has be mounted or zip tied somewhere. Using a Canbus error canceller on a non-canbus vehicle hasn't caused any negative effects (yet).

Honestly, LEDS look nice, but as @crashnburn80 has proved with data, the lack of focus and projection distance is a very real thing. My distance projection has improved by at least 2 - 3 times.

**Drone shots comparing Leds and Hids to follow when it stops snowing**

Fog lights are KC Gravity G4's

 

Looking forward to output pics. Drone shots are EXACTLY what this thread is missing.

 

Good video of LED/HID compare.
They also used a 3 gen Tacoma Projector for the test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygPiFvCth3U

 

I am always baffled when 'professionals' use the wrong equipment to measure their products output and provide inaccurate and misleading test results. The meter used in that video is a halogen meter and will not accurately measure LED or HID light output and will not provide an accurate comparison across the light source technologies. And no reputable lighting company should recommend a 55w HID kit in a halogen housing.

Here are posts where I have addressed this meter issue before with other lighting companies in greater detail.

 

Hikari Ultra "Eyes of Megatron" H11/H9 LEDs
See the original review in post #1608 here.
Amazon link here:



$90 HIKARI Ultra LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit -H11(H8,H9), Prime LED 12000lm 6K Cool White

Edit: Yes, this is the latest design at this time.

 

I think you're using the term professional pretty loosely here. What do you expect when someone wants to spend fifty bucks on a really cheap Chinese POS meter with no published specs at all. Well, to be fair, it's $58 on Amazon. But there's so much else wrong with the video and the presentation that it's a waste of time to watch it at all, but all too many do and think they're getting good info. No comment at all about the gi-normous shadows produces by the HID's he "tested", if you can call it that. I guess anyone can buy and light meter and call themselves a pro now. The same way everyone with an iPhone does for photography. Oh, maybe they are.

 

It seems to be a recurring theme lately - dispute the science presented here because:

• it doesn't jive with the desire to put in LED's - "Love the color and brightness"
• "I'm too busy to read the entire thread". More like - I don't understand the information presented so it must be wrong.

Some of these posts seem like material from Jeff Foxworthy - "If - fill in the blank -, you might be a red-neck....."

 

Headlight Revolution is full of crap. I dont give them any credibility in their biased poorly conducted testing. Theyre clearly just trying to sell you a product.

You'll find that you're wasting your breath on deaf ears around here.