Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

I built a cover out of acrylic to go over the main module. It was pretty easy to do.

 

Details please...

 

I have my module on a mounting plate. I bought some clear acrylic and acrylic glue. Made some measurements and cut the pieces for the box. The glue works fast and strong. Then I took some joiner nuts and put them together with a threaded stud. Bolted that to the mounting plate from underneath, drilled a matching hole in the bottom of the box. Ran a bolt through the box and into the topmost joiner nut. It's pretty rudimentary, but it works. I'll have to look for some photos.

 

Shazaam! If you try this, put the box together one side at a time. Ask me how I know this.

 

Do you have a picture?

 

Look up, sir!

 

Page hadn't refreshed when I sent that! Haha Looks good. You don't get any temperature issues with the unit by covering it up?

 

I figured. No worries! I've never had a single heat issue with it like that. It doesn't completely cover everything; there's enough room for wiring to go to the bus bars at the bottom. It's been through a few water crossings without issue. I have the mounting plate slanted a little so any standing water will run off.

It's not that nice, but it works as far as I can tell. I wish my wiring was as pretty as everyone elses'. I need to get in there and do some cleaning up of that mess.

I just realized this is the 8100 and wanted to say one last thing: I had the cover off one day and it rained. The 8100 had a complete meltdown. I have no idea if it was caused by the rain or something else. Switch Pro replaced it with the 9100, but never told me if they could figure out what was wrong. The 8100 got hot enough to melt the epoxy between the plug in and aluminum base. Also drained my battery. Coincidentally enough, Switch Pro started saying it could only be mounted vertically with the introduction of the 9100. I'm not casting blame or pointing fingers, just stating the facts.

 

are most people running the black wire from the switch pros to the battery or the negative terminal bus, does the black wire and the big negative cable both go to the battery then?

 

The black wite is running to the same lug on the bus that the battery cable is attached to. At the end of the day it doesn't really matter, but that was the lowest resistance path I could do without running that small gauge wire all the way to the battery.

 

I'm trying to setup the anytimebackupcamera Front and Rear to my

$659 SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP-9100. Right now I can't turn on the cameras and when I go into reverse the screen just goes black. I think part of the problem is I need to attach the pink trigger wire to a wire source under the hood that tells the 9100 I'm in reverse. Does anyone know where that would be? Thanks!

 

Backup lights.

 

New RCR-Force12 released at SEMA!

https://youtu.be/z7lOYTZuiO8

 

awesome, thats kind of what i figured, you could do either or. One more question, for the add a circuit, i know the original fuse goes in the bottom slot, what size amperage are using for the top slot in the 3 add a circuits for the blue, white, and pink wires? Thanks again, trying to ask now, rather than when i have to install.

 

Well I was kinda looking for a bit more of a specific answer, but thanks for trying. @KTJO 4x4 has a great post on it I found here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ktjo-4x4-2017-trd-or-build-thread.496004/page-17#post-16746348

 

No, I think the problem is that one of the wires you hooked up to the switch pro has 12v power already sourced from behind the stereo. I did the same thing when I installed mine and once upon a time I came across a diagram that made sense for the switch pro. One of the wires has power already so I think you hook up just one wire(not the live wire) and it will provide 12v to the relay to turn on the camera. I hope this makes sense.

You don't need to hook up the reverse wire unless you want to trigger a light or switch function when the vehicle is placed in reverse.

 

@deuceb here is a quote of my post from almost a year ago.

 

Ohhhhh thanks for both posts. That's making more sense.

 

anyone help out with the add a circuit question?

 

I would keep it reasonable 10-15 amps. It’s just a signal and doesn’t need to be any higher. A good rule of thumb is to match the amps of the fuse you removed.