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If you have 17’s you can get 33” C rated tires. They’re not heavy compared to the e rated. If you have 16’s then the cooper at3 xlt is going to be your lightest option.

 

ugh I need 17s.

 

I'm running the Cooper AT3 XLT's in 295/75/16 and they're not bad at all and I can barely feel the difference from the C load Duratrac 265's I was running for years.

 

Only reason I went from 16s to 17s is lighter tires. Went from E to SL.

 

When you all do this... do you factor in the wheel weight? What is the weight difference between a 16" and a 17" wheel (on average). Are you just trading tire weight for wheel weight?

 

I keep telling myself the same thing

 

It looks like my 265/75r16 are 21lb lighter per tire than a 255/85r16. That would be a huge hit to power and mpg. What do 17" tires run, weight wise?

 

Didn’t even think about this. But looking at SCS for example, the weight difference is 2 lbs each between 16’s and 17’s whereas the tire weight difference between a c rated 17 tire vs an e rated 16 tire is like 10-15 pounds each.

 

Yeah but 255’s are what, like 2 inches narrower?

 

vs 265? No, they are .4" wider actually.

 

Sorry to interrupt tire talk but here is a fridge for sale:

 

Anyone have an idea what model this is? I've been on the lookout for a 63 qt. I'd reach out, but I don't have a Facebook account and I refuse.

 

Nevermind. Found it on CL.

 

Who dis? Part out?

https://lewiston.craigslist.org/pts/d/sumas-2002-toyota-tacoma-trd-off-road/7022861893.html

 

When I went from 265/75 KO2 (load range E) to 285's, I went from 18-20 mpg down to 15-16 on a good day - heck, my commute through downtown PDX I'd get as bad as 8 mpg. Mentioning mpg is not just about the money, but it is an indication that the truck is working hard and that directly translates to responsiveness and driver experience.

My entire build is reactionary. Here's how it has gone:
1. add airbags because putting even just a modest amount of weight in the back causes the ass to drop. $$
2. add leafs because the airbags make the suspension too stiff. $$
3. add coilovers to match the height of the front to the back $$$
4. add 285's because the lift makes the tires look excessively small $$$
5. cab mount chop to accommodate the 285's $
6. add sliders because with the added height its getting tough to get into the damn truck... $$$
7. add OVTune because the truck can't really drive the 285's $$$

Next steps?:
8. consider adding new wheels because the tires rub the UCA's? $$$
9. consider regearing because the truck still can't drive the 285's? $$$$

So now, because I'm trying to turn this passenger car into a passable truck, it doesn't drive well, it costs a lot and I feel that my truck looks like I'm going through a midlife crisis. There's no guarantee that #8 and #9 will be the end of it.

My current plan is to avoid putting more money into this thing and salvage what I like about this truck. If I drop my tires back to 265/75 and also remove the large overload from my medium Dakar's, I might be able to lower the truck back to where 265's don't look silly, keep my current load bearing capacity and improve my overall driver experience.

I'm just riffing here. I realize my intent for this truck is different than others and that many folks find value in having 285's. I'm just finding that it's not my cup of tea.

Have I sold someone on trading for these 285's yet? LOL.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trd-pro-16x7-with-285-75-16-duratracs.637231/

Not mine... Local 285 Duras on wheels @hawaii_dave

 

That's my boss... at 4wp. I'll lowball the crap out of him to hook it up if you want.

 

Yea, at this point I get around 12-13mpg in the city and average around 15-16mpg. I don't know if 33" is the smart move for me, especially in 16" (load range E) as I would anticipate that 12-13mpg tanking pretty quick. I need 17s!!!!!

 

How low of a ball are we talking?