tasco worldclass rifle scope

yeah, and not everyone has the $$$ to buy zeiss,redfield and leupold. i got what i could afford and im happy with it for now. later on after i save up some clams, i'll be getting myself a leupold or a nikon monarch.

 

They are all pretty good now. And they are warranteed, If you do not like it send it back.
This is not the used car business.
You just stumbled into one of my fields of expertise. I did not mean to offend.
If you do not plan on looking through it long; it will be fine.

 

You can pay more but you can`t beat a Leopold. Made in USA.
This is my proffessional opinion. And the USA pays me for my opinions when it comes to riflecraft.
I also like the Redfield wide view. Why look at the sky?
However, the Leopold is slightly clearer. But not enough for the average shooter to notice.
I have both.

 

Why would anyone scope a saddle gun?
I have a BLR IN .308 Win. If I were to scope it I would mount the Leopold 1X5X.
AND KEEP IT ON 1.

 

I know what they are. The problem is cheek hold.
You cannot do both.
Also what about eye relief? You may not even see a recticle.
Optics is book lengh. I am done.

 

why scope a saddle gun(the .30/.30).....because i cant really use iron sights at 100 yards..........i dont have hawks eyes man!!!

 

Roger that ny friend. My ranges are close. But I do have the BLR and a couple of Marlins.
Not hard to scope.

 

i guess i should have added that at the time, the 30/30 was the only rifle i had, and i was replacing a simmons scope that i had landed on during a fall(slipped on some iced up leaves and fell down a rather large hill.......it hurt like a beeoch!!!), and it broke the edges off, and was cracked all to hell. so i got a cheap 3x9-40 scope for it, mounted, sighted it in, and it has been a good scope ever since, and it has been beat all to hell and still its kept its zero. i know the 30/30 is a brush gun, but it serves me well from 10 feet, all the way to 100 yards, and most of it is usually way under 100 yards anyway.

 

Ghostsix, i have a question for you. I've been a lifetime shooter. I'm pretty descent with a handgun and 100% deadly with any rifle with iron sights (for some reason i've never faired well with scopes) Anyway, I don't have the patience for hunting but i'd like to get into some competitive shooting.

If you were doing it, how would you rig up a Remington 700? What kind of scope? trigger work? I'm interested in anything you might have to say about it. Also, where can i go to get a good price on a stock 700 and what would you estimate the price to be? I just figured i'd ask you since you seem to be an expert and may know where to get a good hook up. if you dont mind can you include ballpark prices with all the mods and add ons you suggest. Thanks in advance

 

its not so much the model its the caliber. a model 700 can be chambered in a few diff calibers. are you looking for a long range rifle or a short range. light carrying or rest shooting. the link below will show all the 700 models and then you can pick a caliber or vice versa. as far as the trigger, i have a light trigger for my target pistols and my target rifles. as far as my hunting rifles its much more of a heavy pull. when you have on thick gloves you dont want that 2 or 3 lb pull. as far as prices go. the cheapest price would be at a box store. i bought a 7mm mag browing A bolt at walmart for less then 300. it could easly sell for 800 in some places. But even a average sale price of a rifle is cheaper then at a small shop. Its terrible to say but a small shop just can not come close to a basspro or gander mountain on new rifles. i have bought a lot of guns at big chains and smaller shops. the service in better at smaller shops. but then again a good brand name like remington wont need service. and if it does, the smaller shops should have a their own gunsmith in the area.

 

http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/centerfire_rifles/model_700/

Sorry I forgot the link before. As far as the scope goes, If you have the money get a Leupold. They are the best for the money. And it will erase any doubt that the scope is at fault. Some times I would try and put the blame on the scope and not on me or the gun. Its just one more factor in trying to be dead on. A big problem in a lot of cases in paralex. make sure that the clarity of the cross hairs is sharp and clear at any distance and any magnification. I am a land surveyor and just as with any scope we can adjust the paralex in the instruments by zooming and focusing to infinity(blue sky). then clearing up the cross hairs with the other ring adjustments. If its not adjusted then just a slight movement in your eye postion will mean a inch or two at long range. test it out if you have a sight vise. just move your eye to either side and see if the cross hairs move with it. any movement its bad. te cross hairs should stay on the bullseye.

 

I would not do it at all as it lacks controlled feed. Push feed is just that.
The round will fall out.
You start at terminal ballistics and work back.
What do you want the bullet to do at what range?
What round will do that?
What are the action options?

A decent shot can shoot a 2# trigger. No one can shoot a 10# trigger even in a shotgun. Bobby Leathem shoots a 1# in a 1911.
I made mine 2/1/2 and they wore to 2 and stopped. Just as I reckoned on 2.
You remember the part of keeping your finger out of the trigger guard until you are ready to shoot?
A good crisp 5# is doable with enough weight. But guns are worn a lot more than they are shot.
The 1898 Mauser is it in bolt action. There have been no substantial improvements.
As a matter of interest; I like the 7x57.
Scopes: once again what do you want it to do downrange?
I like the duplex cross hairs. If you know what they subtend and the size of the target you have a range fender.
Factor in a little over kill and work back.
1.5x lets you keep binocular vision. I can do it at 1. 3/4. But that is it.
If you have a long shot with a vari you have plenty of time to crank it up. The reverse is not true.
This is simple tactics.
Cabela`s has about the cheapest prices.

Do not foregt the Hornady-Marlin leverevoloution rd.
I bought some for my .444 and extended the range to 245 yds. The 30-30 is better.
Now it deserves a scope.
I just screwed on a 1X5 Leopold. I had one on my cross bow to check arrow flight. Did that. Don`t need it anymore.
I will give you one tip. Scopes are 1 /1/2" above bore line.
If you zero at 25 you will hit the paper.
In a ,308,30-06 or .375 H&H you will be about 2.7 to 3" high at 100 yds.
Confirm that zero and it will come back down at 245 to 250.
There is your point plank range.
The bullet maker will give you drop over that.
The other way to sight in is at 100 and adjust the sights. Sniper country starts at 600 yds.
Of course the action must be properly bedded. Piller stock screws are better than the old way. If not free floating the BBL. must have proper tension.
If you wish to be competiitve, start with a case lot of brass. Make them all the same.
Short of that, a combat zero will work fine.

 

A Tasco will do just fine. One came on the BLR that I traded a custom Mod. 28 and some boot for. All of these guns are ice cold. I could not trace them. So much for the infringements. It had fine cross hairs and 4x. I am an elitist, So I gave it to a friend for his .22. He still has it. I made the call.
.308 recoil, which is nothing, did not hurt it.
I would not put it on a .416.
A scope has to know its limitations.
You owe me a dumb Taco question.

 

is .223 a pretty good caliber to start off bench? thats what i bought, a .223 NEF handi-rifle with varmint weight barrel cause its real cheap, and .223 ammo can be had REAL cheap, almost the same as reloading yourself with this caliber. the only reccomendation i would have for a target rifle out of the box, but 2 grand, volquartsen evolution centerfire rifles. just depends on how much you wanna spend and how much work you wanna put into it, but, thats one of my dream rifles so figured i'd reccomend it. one website to check out would be benchrest.com and their forums

 

Well we have a guy that knows transit levels and perhaps celestial navigation.
You can always square the sight around a bull to check its veracity.

 

WARNING The .223 is not the same as the 5.56 NATO.

 

i dont believe you, im gonna go shoot some nato out of my gun, not really, its funny how some people think theyre completely interchangable, Not for me, im just shooting .223 REM

 

Wow, thanks for the response guys, ghostsix, i appreciate the thouroughness of your response, unfortunately i didnt understand most of what you said. I guess i forgot to mention some of my particulars. i want the 700 in the 308 and a 10x adjustable scope for the really far out shots. i would like to eventually be able to hit sillouete (sp) at 1000 yards (i know thats a long shot but thats why i am asking about the best equipment). I'm starting to read about adjusting for windspeed and velocity and yardage, and now i want to try to put some of that to use. I'm no stranger to guns, or shooting, or re-loading my own ammo. but like i said, for some reason i have never been good with a scope and i would like to work on that.

 

The Ghost is not kidding. The case dimensions are different and the throat is critical. The NATO round has a longer neck and thicker case.
These PSI`s are running about 60.000. So you can see what could happen.
While on the subject, 9 MM NATO is not safe in arms not designed to use it.
Some of it is for SMG only. You will not know that unless you get it in the original case which is marked.

I would hate to see a nice P35 Kaboom.

The War Wagon is up armored.

Ya`all stay safe out there.

 

Flight gloves have sensitivity enough to pick up a dime with and can be worn as mitten liners.

There is no excuse for bad trigger pulls.

Actually some makers believe that operator error is an excuse for bad trigger pulls.
How does it improve this by making it much more difficult to hit the target?

Cops miss most of the time. This would not be good in the Infantry.
And those rounds go somewhere.