GA Tacoma Owners BS Thread

That's fancy!

 

Indeed, now my thought is for my setup.
Get the Flat Panel floor version, and the back panel.
Or just get the floor and buy the panel you have just purchased. There will be Electrical shit all over this panel, the question is which materials is better suited to mount that kind of stuff on.

 

Coming from my ‘05 Taco (which I still have, so I’m not totally an outsider here), it was a huge leap of faith. My first car was a 2000 Ford Exploder, and I swore I’d never drive another Ford again. But new Tacomas at the time were too much money for what seemed like dated tech, the GM twins didn’t offer an extended cab anymore, and Rams aren’t exactly known for reliability. Nissan wasn’t even a consideration for me since they’re even more dated than the Tacos.

After all that, there really was only one choice left. It ended up being really well suited for me. Plus I get slightly better mpgs than my Taco with way more power.

 

Just bust out the chop saw and rock one out to your own liking.


Having said that- I think version 2 will be made out of extruded aluminum with some sort of buss bar/ gang box for electrical.

 

If you wanna make version 2. I am down to bring the BBQ. I already have a taste for it today, but got to go to work. Lol
Looks good Steve. So you removed the little plastic cubby boxes under the seats?

 

Granted having one of both, midsize and full size is really nice.

 

@TRDridgerunner What sound deadening did you use?

 

Got some bed lights installed last night just gotta get constant 12V back there so I can use it when the truck is off. Currently have it tapped into the trailer harness.

 

let us know how you do this. I have a light in my shell on the back side of the brake light that I want to wire somewhere else besides the parking lights like suggested. I want the option to turn it on and off without having to have the car on.

 

will do, I’ll be looking into it this weekend...

currently I am thinking either find the relay that controls the power to the harness and bypass it, or just run constant 12v to a blue seas fuse panel in the back

 

option 2.

 

I actually kept them. I wanted to be able to access them so the platforms I made flips up and out of the way just like the original seat does.

I used a bituminous 60mil waterproofing sheet that my company makes. I applied two sheets so I have 120mil of coverage. I think the standard dyno-mat has 80 mil thickness.
Here is what the base layer looks like.

 

I already have this set up for my brake light. Top wires go to brake light and domelight. Bottom red wire is spliced into tail light for barked light power source. Black is ground. Red and white wire is domelight power but currently no hooked up. Can I just run the red and white straight to the positive terminal on the batter? No fuse needed since there's one in that black box right?

 

Since I have dunked my truck and have ripped out the carpet I decided to sound deaden mine as well. I just got some stuff on Amazon that others have used. All in all for 72 sqft and a roller it’s like $250 total I think. I’d have to double check

 

You really need a fuse block that connection. I am not a wiring expert, but you need something to take the hit other than your battery and or lights

 

There is a fuse in that black box. Is that not sufficient?

 

Technically yes. But generally you want as short of a run between the power source and fuse as possible. The idea is that worst case scenario, should the wire melt with the fuse there’s less of a run that still has power.

 

Since the wire will have to run the length of the truck to the battery, should I just run a 10amp inline fuse somewhere in the middle or closer to the battery?

 

What is the power draw of the lights you are using? Might want a 15amp.

 

15 amp will do. What about the location of the inline. Closer to battery?