Fuel tank filler tube replacement

Hi -
Searched diligently to avoid duplicating, but couldn’t find anything. Forgive me if this already exists.

I was reaming (drilling) out the drain holes on my bed and appear to have punctured the fill tube to the gas tank. Now when refilling, gas is running on the ground. Doh. Near term is not a problem, but I don’t want water and grit getting in the tank long term.

I am decent with tools and have no problem paying the price for my own stupidity. My question is what is the best way to go about replacing it.

Remove the bed and go at it from the top?

Drop the fuel tank from below?

Or can I magically remove it and stab a replacement through the fuel door on the rear quarter panel without either of the above?

Thanks everyone!,,,,

 

Need more practice with the drill though....Remove the inner fender and drop the tank a bit is probably the least amount of work.

 

Thank you, sir. That’s what I figured.

(plans on driving next tank to empty)

How do you feel about FlexSeal tape?

 

I dunno man anything adhesive ect with gasoline is probably a band aid for a long term problem

 

X2^

How big is the hole?
If it was in the right spot, I wouldn't be the least bit afraid to fill a small diameter hole with a short, appropriately sized SS screw.

 

Thanks for the advice. I was tongue-in-cheek about taping the fill tube.

Looks like it is a dumb plastic part about $100. So regardless of the size of the hole, I plan to replace it.

Pics after Thanksgiving.

 

I did the same thing and look forward to hearing how it went.

 

.

 

I’d the hole isn’t too big, fill it with this gastank repair putty and move on. It’s not going to be immersed in gas anyways:

$8 J-B Weld 8217 TankWeld Gas Tank Repair - 1 oz.,Dark Grey

https://www.amazon.ca/Weld-8217-Aut...ocphy=1001970&hvtargid=pla-491487081053&psc=1

 

Appreciate the support and feedback. I wound up replacing the fill tube. No pictures, but here are key lessons I learned:

1) it is 100% doable
2) Gas tank must be empty or near empty
3) The filler tube seal clip is a PITA to remove, and the Toyota engineer who designed it should be fired
4) Fender liner must be removed to put your hands where they need to go. You will break the clips. A bag of 50 can be had on Amazon for $10. The dealer will charge you $3 each

 

OP if you are still around, I'm assuming you only partially lowered the tank rather than remove completely?

I'm in the same boat. I went at the hole gingerly and tried to break through carefully but was also in a bit of a rush. Stupid.

In hindsight I wish I'd put something between the hose and the bed to act as a drill stop.

I will be replacing the hose in a few days, and if I can add anything beneficial here I will.

 

Are you getting the CEL and evap codes as a result of the filler tube being punctured?

 

Absolutely. P0455 (Large Evap Leak) and P0441 (incorrect purge flow).

Annoying to clear codes every few trips, but more of an immediate concern is fuel leaking from the filler hose during refueling.

Longer term concern is my new tonneau drain strategy is mainlining straight to the hose or back into the bed.

Looking forward to getting this handled this weekend!!

 

clean with brake cleaner and a clean rag, then tape it up about 6" to either side of hole with electrical tape, it'll hold while you order a new hose, and finda time when the tank is empty to replace it. it'll keep water and grit from getting in the tank for a while.

 

I got in there a few days ago and attempted something similar. Even after removing the fender liner and fender support bracket, there is very little room to work with. The affected area of the hose is tightly sandwiched between the main longitudinal outboard frame member and the bed. Unless you have fingers like ET, you're not going to be able to do much.

 

clean the rubber hose with some scotch brite pads, brake cleaner, and a tire patch/glue? not sure how well this holds up to gas though...

 

^ this section with the plastic bellows is directly below the factory drain hole location on the driver's side.

There is very little clearance between it and the bed so it is a tough spot to work and see, even if you remove the fender liner and fender support bracket. Effective temp fixes are gonna be tough without lowering the tank. If you're gonna go that far just replace the hose.

 

Im confused on how everyone in this thread is puncturing their fill hose?

 

i was thinking the same.
What is the purpose of enlarging the drain holes?