Softtopper vs camper shell

This almost exactly how I put lights on my softopper last year. How did you secure the lights at the bottom of the topper?

 

Wrapped them around the tie-down cleats inside.

My boss just asked why I spelled out lambda lambda lambda on my truck. I might have to think about a different configuration now.

 

Really intrigued by some of the cool rack products that also serve as soft topper frames.

 

I've owned 4 Wranglers in my life, 3 with soft tops.

* A soft top only creates the illusion that your stuff is secure and out of the weather, it is not.
*They are butt ugly on a truck, looking like a man wearing a hat 2 sizes too small.
*They only last a few years before needing to be replaced. Even less when someone rips it open to get inside.

I made the decision years ago to just buy a fiberglass cap and never take it off. If I need to haul something too big to fit under the cap I have a trailer. A Tacoma bed isn't large enough to carry anything of any size and they don't have enough payload for any real weight anyway. Even with a full size truck heavy bulky loads go in a trailer easier anyway.

If you're the type who can't decide whether to leave it on or off they still make aluminum caps. They look better than soft tops; they are more secure and weather proof. They weigh about the same and are just as easy to put on and take off by your self, plus they cost less.

 

Do the soft tops have zippers around the back window?

If so and you live in the arid west I'd say "f" that. I owned a soft top Jeep for 12 years in AZ and getting in and out of the rear window was always annoying. Then it got really dusty it would barely function. And eventually the windows would get scratched by dust by getting in and out of it and zippers would fail. Personally I dont think the softoppers look any better than hard shell. They look cool on trucks that are pimped out for overland but then the hard shells would probably look as good on the same truck with same upgrades.

I have a snugtop rebel hard shell and it doesn't leak. I enjoy backpacking and hiking and just general exploring so I don't ever intend to take it off. I'd say get a hard shell if you have the money unless you really think you'll need to haul stuff in the bed frequently.

 

Just helped a buddy load a 70" TV. Forgot I had the top on, rolled it forward and on our way we went.

 

The top of the windows are attached with velcro. The sides of the rear are two large zippers. There is loop tape on the bottom flap. It can be tucked, put hook tape on the tailgate, or just leave it free. I am doing the last one with a clear vinyl strip on the top inch or so for protection.

 

What type of cap is that in your picture? It looks great.

 

Some people find it really stressful and I've seen people get overwhelmed. I'm a decent multitasker.

Instagram, Facebook.. those are easier to me. Just fast posts. YouTube... that's work though. I spend hours on any video to record, edit and publish. But I enjoy the time doing DIY with my kids. You can see how they've grown so much.

 

The Supertop 2 has my curiosity. I'd love to see a side by side comparo' against the softopper. The only reason why I didn't get the original bestop was that weird "shitting dog" roof shape.

 

I do like the brake light for the Supertop 2. I have plans to make one for the Softopper. Just a simple hook and loop patch with a cheap waterproof strip bonded to it. I will insert it between the top of the rear panel and top. Nothing stupid bright. Just enough to help folks out.

Honestly, the Full 'C' mod by itself has been working well. I would be a lot more nervous with the stock setup and the absolutely shitty drivers around here.

 

I did a self-adhesive led strip for mine. It's flexible enough to not get damaged when folded up. Not super bright, but visible enough for my purposes.

 

Nice! That is what I want for brightness. Keep it in balance with the tails.

 

I have these on my Amazon list.... maybe someday. I like the black PCB, and there is lots extra if they quit working since I'd only use a 4"-6" section. I like the velcro patch idea.

Led World Black PCB 5M 5050 SMD 300 Leds Red Color Waterproof Flexible Strip Lights DC12V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MNCASK...olid=3JJ25TKF5MDC6&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Holy crap. That is pretty sweet!

Looking at the description, I cannot tell for sure, but with just two leads, I am kind of assuming that swapping polarity would change them from red to white?

Thanks! I'm thinking for shaving the area where I will bond the strip.

 

I think they are red only

Shaving a strip? Giggity!

 

Doh!

I don't know where that got in my head, but then, / .


Hahahaha! The Brazilian Mod (TBM).

 

Thanks, @dilbert !

I ordered those and extra leads for making some lighting after cutting it down.

I owe you more beers!

 

Since I'm spending your money... this will let you tie in to the brake signal without tapping factory wiring. It plugs in in-line behind the bumper.

$46 CURT 55384 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-55384-C...automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive

 

LoL! You won't get me this time!

I have a bunch of SAE connectors from various battery tender bits. I also have a bunch of harness length tucked behind the tails from the prototype kit for the Full 'C' mod. I checked with @NoOne , who engineered those puppies. He said even with the stock incandescents pulling double the draw, the LED strip would be no big deal. Sooo, my plan is to solder on an SAE pigtail to the stock side of the harness.