6.5" component speakers in the front door of ext cab?

Anyone tried putting 6.5" component speakers in the front door of their ext. cab? Looking to put Alpine S-S65C's in the front, but crutchfield said they wont fit, but sell a 6x8 to 6.5 adapter plate? anyone done this and have any advice?

 

There is a broader selection of 6.5’s vs 6x8. Yes I have used adapters. Works fine.

 

Tryna link your boy to some adapters? dont know which ones are the good ones

 

http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK006

 

I put 6.5s in my doors without adapters. Just got them arranged so I could get 2 or 3 screws in and called it good.



Sounds good, haven't had any problems.

 

Could be the depth that makes it a no go vs the diameter

 

You're right... That's a possibility... Certain 6.5 magnets could be larger than others.

 

I have those exact ones in my regular cab. Made my own adapters and had to trim a bit inside the door panel. Door panel pushes out a bit still, but clips hold it back. Speakers sound awesome.

 

In the worst case you would cause a ~10% attenuation of certain audible frequencies and a +10% boost of other audible frequencies, causing a potential ~20% mangling of the audible phase field compared to the intended response. Aside from phasing effects, speakers not designed for air suspension would also be underdamped, applying a bit more load to your amplifier. This might or might not be perceptible, based on your speaker/amp design and expectations. But you would certainly see the adverse effects if you were to analyze it.

 

Dude... that sounds like we're talking about building a fricken time machine.

 

Yep a well designed audio system is timeless lol. Just wanted to add that the adapters do make a difference to the sound field. I think they are worth the $10, but surely are not necessary.

 

My attempt of a translation into the common tongue:

The front and rear of the speaker cone (diaphragm) should be isolated from one another. The speaker creates a sound wave by moving forward and backward. If the front & rear of the speaker cone is not isolated, some of the forward motion (sound wave), will be canceled (-attenuated) by the speaker cones own backward motion (Note the attenuation will also be additive, what actually happens just depends (on physics)).

A speaker adapter seals (isolates) the forward and rear motions of the speaker cone. Thus no unwanted sound wave cancellation/addition (negative and positive attenuation), producing a un-distorted sound (wave).

 

Man, the thing i LOVE about this page is that everyone is so helpful, thank you all for the responses!! I checked the depth of some rockford T16-S's and they are 2", which i believe should fit, and decided to go with a whole rockford setups with : T16-S's (6.5" components) in the front,

$100 P1683 Punch 6"x8" 3-Way Coaxial Full Range Speakers - Black (Pair)

P1683's (6x8" Coax 3 ways) in the rear, both powered by the Punch PBR400X4D amp, with a powered

$390 P300-12 Single 12" 300-Watt Amplified Subwoofer in Enclosure - Black

P300-12 sub.

I have the 10in powered sub now, but would like something to be able to hit those lower frequencies. 10in goes to 35Hz ish, and the 12in goes to 20Hz.

Planning on dynamatting [or Noico, whatever is affordable, ALSO looking for recommendations ] the doors and the floorpan, and the back wall of the cab.

I feel like this setup would be pretty decent, covering all of the frequency spectrum with tuning of the ext amp and powered amp in the sub, be able to have decent bass, mids and highs, all around for $1000.

 

I’m not sure my speaker is set up the same but I only but 3 in mine and it works fine screw an adapter

 

I think your choices of RF front and side rear speakers are excellent. I would do the same, and now probably will copy you since my 04 has a stock stereo setup. I would probably clip the leads to the rear tweeters if possible to focus the staging forward without needing active shaping components. I have a 20 yr. old Rockford Fosgate barbecue amp that has removable cards with customizable resistor arrays to set low pass and high pass cutoff frequencies to do the same thing, it is a classic.

 

I don’t believe there are any tweeters in the rear, only the front. Which is why I decided to use coax in the rear and components in the front. I figured I’d beef up on the front speakers since those are the ones Id be listening to most and get mid grade decent ones for the rear to encapsulate myself in good sound from all directions

 

I'm going to have a similar set up been gathering parts. I'm going to use t2 5.25's components in the front. The 6.5's where to deep at 2.5". I have a punch 600 that I'm going to just bridge the rear channel to power a 10 in a small ported box. . Just picked up my head unit so it's time to get a cracking.
This is supposed to be the cats cat's meow as for as damper goes.
https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/product/cld-rectangles-4-pieces/

There's a guy in the tw audio section who had good results with minimal cdl tiles and foam.
I'll look for it.

Here it is .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...er-audio-upgrade-538-00.639600/#post-22076354

 

Agreed, I have never seen separate tweeters in the rear. I was saying I would disable the tweeters in the 3-way rear coax drivers. For over 8-10 kHz many people prefer having only a single location, e.g. the front stereo pair, to positionally lock in on the sound so your brain can spatially recognize the position of individual instruments. With bright tweeters front and rear, instruments appear to ‘come from everywhere’ and it is unclear where instruments are located in the sound field. By helping re-create the original staging with >8-10 kHz only up front, once your brain can position the instruments ‘in front’ of you, it can also better separate and position the lower frequencies by processing that would not be possible without the hints from having such better staged higher frequencies. The brain naturally does this because higher frequencies are more positionally sensitive than lower frequencies due to their shorter wavelength. This is why birds/dolphins chirp- higher freq for position, lower freq for distance (power goes with square of amplitude, also true for ocean waves). It is also why bats use such high freq— for positional accuracy at short distance.

I think it is cool the Tacoma has separate tweets in the doors. They would have a bettter effect if relocated to the top of the dash in the corners to splash off the front windshield however. If you have a decent setup, try to apply some of this, it really improves the listening experience.

TLDR- tweets belong only up front even when considering the relatively small coax tweets in combo speakers. In the rear position, it improves staging to clip the leads to tweeters and supertweeters in coax drivers.

 

Very interesting, never thought about it that way. Yeah I have a 95 pathfinder that actually has tweeters in the rear! Haha So what’s your thought of using midrange speakers in the rear? So only tweeters would be in the front? From what you were saying, it seems having a 2 or 3 way coax in the rear wouldnt be the way to go.

 

Yep in a tacoma sized cab this is the only sensible setup in my opinion. The RF 1683 drivers roll off at 24 kHz, which is way too bright for the rear. I quickly checked the manual but didn't see the specs for the individual drivers. If it were me, I would clip the flex wire that feeds the tweeter, then evaluate if the next lower freq. driver needed to be clipped too. For me, I'd just clip it as I'd be trying to avoid getting too involved in the analysis and adding a high pass filter for the rear sides before the amp. I'm not sure how much what I'm saying here fits with the typical path for the audio scene nowadays. I'm just throwing it out to get people to think about it in a way they may have not seen before. A quick experiment would be to put duct tape over everything except the woofer in your 1683's if you install them, then crank it and see if you think it sounds better. You obviously need a high end amp and some volume to really make a difference, but if you are into RF gear you likely get my drift.