ECGS bushing replacement and write up to follow

Thanks for the detailed reply. So when you reinsert the axle, it's pretty obvious once it seats? Like it "clicks" into place for a lack of a better term? Also, you only needed one or two jackstands because you only lifted the drivers side right?

 

Last week I picked up a 2nd set of HF 6 Ton on sale with the hard plastic piece for the top for $40. I jacked up both sides, drained the front diff, and had a 2nd set laying around because I was doing the work alone for the most part. I used 3 stands, if you get creative with a bungy cord to hold the shaft level when you pound it in 2 would be fine. Also a friend vs a 70 year old grandma with a BFH might be a better choice.

To line up the splines it was very obvious that it was set because I turned the shaft 1” one way and then 1” back to the original position. I could tell there was resistance from it turning in the diff. Once I had that feeling each tap moved it about 3/16”. Once my helper hit it the third or fourth time I definitely felt something that made me think it was in all the way. I don’t quite remember if it was a click feel “like a torque wrench” or the sound, but something happened that the common sense gene I have said to stop and check it out. Sure enough it looked set in as far as the oem but I wacked it one more time, this time it was obvious it was home.

Bottom line I’ve done all the preventative maintenance items that can be done and this is pretty damn simple and straight forward. I’m 5’-5” 150 on a good day and a ginger. Your going to have to loose the fear of using a BFH to this but it’s easy.

Two more things always be aware of where the flexible ABS wire is and the hard brake line. When I was manhandling the rotor to get the axle in I was looking at both of the above the whole time to make sure I didn’t break them. Oh I fiddled with the dust cap over the axle nut with a few different screwdrivers with no success. Then I pulled my Benchmade out and tapped the blade in so the screw driver would fit. That slowed me down for about 3 minutes. Did I mention that I installed a screen door from HD in the morning and didn’t start this until 4:30pm? That door was one of the worst experiences of my life.

I watched these a few times and had the link open as I worked.

https://youtu.be/ZZ5JSWu6mTE
https://youtu.be/m9W31KGy6k0
https://youtu.be/mfI1agKret0
https://youtu.be/zHrJGWhYxsw
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

 

I cannot get the CV axle to budge! We've tried everything except the steel cable method. Tried prying from every imaginable angle, hitting with hammer on the back, slide hammer with jaw attachment....everything. No movement...

Very frustrated!

 

The slide hammer worked on my friends taco but not mine. We had to rig up something with the slide hammer to "hammer" more force to get mine out. Look at this YouTube video and start around 7:40. Not my video but they deal with the same issue.
https://youtu.be/cVMuu5qJqVM

 

Use a hammer and stick the forks in the joint. Pry back like your pulling a nail. The right angle will give you more leverage than the 8° of a pry bar.

 

Just got mine back from the shop. Cost $331 to have the do the ECGS bushing for me. We tried for two hours to get the CV axle out ourselves, and it wouldn't budge. Of course when I picked it up, the shop guys said it "popped right out after 3 swings with the hammer". Ugh............

Anyway, the new bushing seems to be riding pretty smooth. I'll report back once I get some miles on it.

 

Has anyone had this bushing fail? I've had mine in for 75k miles and am starting to get front end vibes between 30-35 mph and they go away when in 4h. Just wondering if it's time for a new one.

 

Keep us posted.


Oh I have the tool for rent if anyone is interested, send PM.

 

Can't seem to get the axle in any further than this. Seems like it should go further but I've been beating on it for over an hour.

 

Looks better now. Praying for no leaks.

 

Removal and install tools for sale. $70 shipped. Only used once.

 

Tackled this yesterday. What a bitch of a project. I had some trouble removing the axle, but with long enough pry bar and finding the sweet spot it came out rather easily.

Now driving the bushing in, what a fucking pain the ass. The install tool they sell is garbage. It's too long and also the disc does not sit nice on the bushing potentially nicking the bushing surface. Should have not bought it.

Ended up using an impact socket to drive the bushing in. I am half way in, looks square, but it was not going in easy. Gave up for the night and will go back to it tonight. Maybe will rent a different tool from Autozone that would sit on the lip of the bushing better.

 

I had the same problem with the install tool. I had to file and sand the

smallest disk to get it to fit correctly on the bushing. I don't disagree on your assessment on their install tool.​

I also put the bushing in the freezer and coated it with diff oil before installing and it went in without any problem.
Best of luck! Sometime it takes walking away then trying again to succeed. You can do this!

 

I wish I thought about freezing the bushing. Too late for that now since it is half way in...

 

getting ready to do this soon.. what do you guys use to drive in the new axle seal?

 

I used 2 inch PVC coupler. Get one threaded on one side and put a plug there. That way you will have a raised centered portion you can hammer on. Once near finish, you can remove it and hammer on the particular spot on the edge to make sure the seal is even.

 

To follow up. Yep, drove the bushing in next day. But then the damn seal gave me fits. First, hard to remove, but then I damaged the new while driving it in because there was some corrosion on the edge of the seal opening forming "bumps". Had to use emery cloth to clean that up.

I did not remove the axle from the car, but frankly the proper way to do it is probably better. Removing the shock will give one clear access to the seal and opening. Might take less time overall than futzing around in the limited space.

Btw, thanks for the tip on filing the install tool disc. After doing that I rigged a tool like that and the bushing went in smooth.

 

Sweet thank you bud

 

Just did this job. Fwiw, I didn't need the ECGS tool, the bearing came easy with an AutoZone bearing puller. P/n 648611T. Hardest part was getting the axle seal in without screwing it up. I also destroyed my dust cap, but those are cheap to replace.

 

can i put my new axel seal in the freezer prior to install to make it easier to go in or is this a bad idea?