Applying Fluid Film

truck must look like a caked mess from all the roadspray on the sides, hood and tailgate, etc!

so what if there is a product out there that would require NO hosing of frame, etc. because nothing collects and sticky to it?
no ranky smell either! or drip drip on driveway

 

You still wash the salt off the body/paint you just dont wash the underside because it defeats the purpose of oiling it. The oil is a barrier between the salt and the metal, dont wash it off!

 

Love Fluid Film. Great stuff. Can't go wrong with it for rust prevention if you take a bit of precaution around rubber materials. Easy, cheap, smell goes away after a few days, and lasts a long time.

 

my garage floor is not going to like all of that nasty slop all over once it thaws and dumps off the suspension and wheel wells in black chunks!


.. and my other 2 pertinent questions still have yet to be answered if anybody knows what is going on?

 

Fluid film and woolwax dont drip, bar and chain oil does.

Fluid film smells kinda good but Woolwax does stink it kinda smells like a barnyard, i guess it's because it has much more lanolin in it and less "filler", it is really sticky stuff.

 

i must've sprayed it on way too thick then because it was dripping all over my face and arms

 

There are different thicknesses of fluid film some you can pour but the stuff i ended up with i had to use a spatula to force it into the spray gun can. Mine did not drip at all. The wool wax spattered when applying it overhead doing the underside of the bed or floor pans. That pic kinda looks like the thinner stuff, is it?

 

Fluid Film becomes more thick when it is cold or if it is old/exposed to the open environment. Neither affect the quality or protection properties.

My gallon was thick so I used a hanger as a mixer attachment and attached it to my drill and the mixing made it quite a bit less coagulated.

 

it was from the spray rattle cans, i may have had the can too close or something

 

I ordered my gallon can when it was early fall and weather was warm and i stirred it as per instructions and it didn't really get any better. I had to spatula it into the gun i was never able to pour it. I have seen youtube videos where the can people are using looks really thin and easy to pour. Woolwax pours really easy i have never had to spatula it into the gun. Either way it never ran off my 4runner it sprayed really well i was using the professional gun though.

 

Lol

 

the 1st attempt is always a humorous event, there was not much danger of breaking anything for this task

 

That is what my internal frame must have looked like, as I made 2 passes to start then let it creep, finished FFing the rest of the frame, then made 2 more passes internally, externally one pass.

Most if not all of the perforations you see on TW starts internally IMO.

 

yeah i am trying to pinpoint exactly where and how it starts, plenty of old Tacos out there now at the local salvage lot that missed the buyback/frame swap thing to do some DD on now
seems to me it starts from de-laminating paint chips on the inside, ... not sure how those get all flaky inside there with no sand and/or gravel chipping at it like on parts of the outside probably do.

then those loose paint chips start clogging the drain holes and nothing can drain out properly and just sits inside to evaporate

 

I already posted this:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spray-por-15-inside-frame.614253/page-2#post-21175850

 

was this link a pro or anti POR-15 result. I wasn't sure about putting that in the frame holes yet, that product seems to be the going standard on TW for some reason

 

Decades ago LPS 3 was what was used in refineries when breaking apart piping to keep from rusting.

Had to be wire wheeled clean to reassemble so they kind of did away with it. (too many idiots using welding slag wheels and ruining stuff) It worked really well. I was surprised to see it took this long to be mentioned as I thought cosmoline was a permanent application. Except hard to take off when needed.

 

Cosmoline practically falls off if its near any heat source. Ive used straight up hot water to remove it from surplus rifles. Leaving the stock in the sun for a few hours is all it takes for it to weep out.

 

Ah, well then LPS is different. People just called it cosmo. It dries waxy and rubbery, yet flaky if that makes sense. Anyway. Wire brush removal.

 

Sorry not related to POR-15. Just answering to comments how fluid film responds to winter and road spray. I have no access to POR-15 and no experience with it. The thread title was about FF so I thought I can contribute.

By the way FF is used in marine application for salt water exposed metal. And unless you pressure wash the frame with hot water and soap during the winter the FF application can survive the whole season without need for reapplication.