Oil change with stuck filter

It takes y'all 15 min to get to the oil filter on a 3rd Gen? Maybe you don't need to be doing maintenance yourself.....

 

Thanks everyone, ordered another filter cap tool suggested here and the aluminum housing too. All will be in thursday.
Filled it up with oil and ready to go with the old filter. So much for the quick oil change.

 

To add to the punchline of this, the 4Runner has a total of three plates/Trim pieces to remove to get to the plug and the filter plus the same canister yet you will see no bitching about this on the T4R forums.

We have.a third gen taco and a 5th gen t4r. Never had a problem and I change the oil every 5k on both. Never understood the need for thread upon thread about how hard this is, how messy this is or how long this takes.....because it’s easy, it’s not messy and it takes very little time.

 

Ya that's what maybe it should take. Once I get the filter off and torqued down to something normal. But thanks for your input

 

Agreed. Get the right tools and it's an easy easy job.

 

Its simple don't read the bitching posts.

 

It's simple.

Read the countless DIY threads regarding the best way to do it.

Buy the right tools.

Your canister isn't overtorqued, even with hand tightening you really need the correct tool to remove it. I understand you are frustrated, but if you had done aa little bit of research and had the correct equipment, this thread would not exist.

In order to remove the oil filter on my 2016 cummins, you have to either remove a bunch of shit to get to it form the top, or utilize an opening in the drivers side wheel well to get to it. The filter is longer than the opening, so you need a tool to seal the top so as not to spill oil everywhere.

Additionally, there are two fuel filters to service. The one under the hood is hard to get leverage on and suffers from the same malady as the oil filter on the Taco does - namely that even if you lightly tighten it, it's a bear to remove, only you can't easily get leverage due to space constraints AND you need a special socket.

The rear fuel filter is also a pain to deal with, namely because even after you bleed it, it will still give you a diesel baptism. You need to fuck with sensors, plugs and God knows what else.

Still, there are less threads on the cummins forum compared to this subforum with regards to bitching about any of these things. Most people do the research, then make a multi part decision - Do I have the skills to deal with this? Do I have the tools to deal with this? Is it worth my time to attempt this at home?

The cartridge system on the Tacos and 4Runners is no big thing. Removing 4 bolts to get a skid out of the way does not take 15 minutes and with the right tool used the right way, the canister comes off. It's very simple.

I repeat the fact that the 4runner forum is not littered with posts bitching about how hard this is says something.....even though you have to remove more than twice the bolts and twice the pieces to get to the exact same cartridge system.

At least you didn't drain your tranny, like a lot of 3rd Gen TacomaWorld subforum members have done.

 

The 5.7L motor in my Tundra has the paper cartridge filter as well. It works fine as long as you don't torque down the filter housing.

 

Ya I don't think it should be so hard but at least I don't have a cummins to work on. It seems to be pretty common issue. Glad to see you agree it should not be so hard
Thanks to all the good suggestions here it seems like it will not be a problem once i get this filter off.

 

Gee, & I thought it was messy & awkward to change the all paper cartridge on my BMW. I agree though, the way to do it is to buy the correct, aluminum, housing wrench to remove the cap. Even the best of plastic cap wrenches kinda suck with the torque required to loosen the cap with the sealing o-ring.

 

My issue is you made a broad statement about Nissan owners, basically saying there all the same. They are not.
I agree with you that with the new Tacoma using a canister oil filter is stupid to suggest using a screw driver to punch through it.
Though I have read Tacoma owners have suggested it for 2ng Gen owners.

 

Where did I say you were?. However to make a suggestion to use a screwdriver through a plastic canister type oil filter is pretty lame.
It may be appropriate for a 2nd Gen Tacoma but not the 3rd Gen with the 3.5 L engine. It is a canister type filter. Why destroy the canister?

Note my sig. I have a 16 Pro 4x Frontier. Use to have a 2nd Gen Tacoma.

 

Curious as to why Toyota supplies the plastic as opposed to the aluminum filter housing from the factory?

 

My understanding is the aluminium comes on the Sienna mini-van engine. I guess they decided to cheap-out on our Taco's.

 

i am an old fart! crawling under and unbolting the skid plate, yea about 15 minutes. Ok maybe 12 minutes!

 

Toyota recommends changing the oil every 10k.

If you own your truck for 300k, that's about 30 oil changes.

Over probably 20 years...lol

 

The aluminum is $21.00 part. The plastic is a $15.00 part. I'm guessing there is another reason.....

 

What would you guess that reason is?

 

It takes me 15 minutes and involves a hydraulic jack, but I have a 2nd gen BudBuilt skid plate with no access door. On the flip side, with so much empty space, I don't have to bother with the drain spigot.

Probably saves Toyota a couple of bucks. The Sienna's cap design might be older, before plastic chemistry/technology has been developed to be sufficiently durable. Aluminum on aluminum can also gall more easily if you don't generously lather the threads with oil.

 

Car mfg is very cut-throat. If you worked at Toyota and figured out a way to save 50 cents per vehicle without affecting function or durability, you'd be employee of the month. If you figured out a way to save $5 per vehicle, you get a lifetime achieve award and a feature article in SAE magazine.