Lower Control Arm (LCA) + Bushings and Replacement Options for Both (Rubber)

Well my alignment is no longer able to be adjusted due to the cam bolts being frozen in the bushings.

I know that there's an extensive thread on polyurethane replacement bushings like whiteline, etc., but I'd rather just stick with OEM (or equivalent).

Was wondering if anyone has just used stock replacement lower control arms, and if so, if they were some type of aftermarket OEM equivalent, and what your thoughts are on the quality and your experiences with them, or if you just replaced the bushings in the factory LCA with new OEM ones. I do not know what the part # is for either option, so any help there would be appreciated!

Thanks

EDIT: It looks like the only part # for the OEM bushings that I can find is 48061-35040 and they are $50 each so that's a $200 bill right there. Depends on the quality of aftermarket replacement options. Let me know your experiences if you are using any of the aftermarket options.

 

I see Rock Auto sells replacement LCA assemblies for ~$100 ea., either Mevotech or Moog. Brand isn't too critical since the arm doesn't include the lower ball joint in the 1st gen design.

 

What's really funny is the Toyota LCAs are about $141 each, but each bushing is $50. To me it seems like buying a whole new LCA is a no brainer, for another $40 and not having the mess with replacing the bushings.. only possible issue being getting the cam bolts out of the old ones, which seems like everyone is buying OEM cam bolts regardless.

 

That's essentially what most shops will do. They tell you that you need new control arms (that include new pre-installed bushings) when all you need is bushings. They're basically too lazy to use their hydraulic press, and pass the extra cost of the LCA assembly on to the customer.

Also, I always thought whitelines were OEM style rubber bushings, not poly. I did a little looking, and they're an "elastomer" bushing, which afaik is kind of in between a true rubber and the poly bushings.

If you really want to stick to rubber, just get some moogs. They're like $30 a side. You can go OEM, but they're like $70+ a side

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6,1388987,suspension,control+arm+bushing,7532

 

@ThunderOne

I just went through this about 3 months ago.

I had replaced my stock bushings with Whitelines about 6 months ago and was happy.

About 3 months into ownership, they were squealing and I figured I didn't lube them enough combined with the fact that I used the grease Whiteline provides.

I posted on here about whether I should replace them with OEM bushings (was appalled at the pricing per bushing), or an OEM variant found on Rockauto. No one came back with any feedback regarding the OEM variants found on Rockauto so I decided to remove my bushings and grease them up again. No noise to report seeing as how I think the grease I used made a difference.

 

how long ago was that? I wheel a few times a year and often there is mud involved, I've never heard a peep out of my OEM rubber bushings and I really don't want to add another thing to my list of things I need to regrease every so often, hence me wanting to just stick with OEM

 

Really now it's been about 3-4 months since I greased them all up with Superlube; used a whole small tube actually

Since then, I've wheeled multiple times at Hollister Hills, and gone on plenty of unimproved roads since I live out in the middle of nowhere. Not to mention driving through the mud a few days ago since it's been raining like crazy.

 

You never should hear anything from the rubber bushings since they operate by the rubber flexing so you never need to lube them. Unlike the poly/whitelines where there's a metal sleeve that slides inside a semi rigid bushing.

I've had my ES poly bushings in my LCAs for more than 7 years. And I honestly neglect them and have only lubed them a few times over the years. That said, they've always been 100% silent, on and off-road.

 

Unless you greased the cam bolts when the truck was near-new, prepare to cut the bolts with a sawzall. Unfortunately the SPC/Moog aftermarket cam bolts are poorly designed (the D-slot rounds out), so we are left with expensive OEM ones.

 

which parts will I need as far as the cam bolts?

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofcons...-4l-v6-gas/front-suspension--front-suspension

I am seeing a "lower control arm bolt" for $16 each on the "other purchased" part of what looks like the cam tabs on this page:
https://parts.conicellitoyotaofcons...0YWNvbWEmeT0yMDA0JnQ9YmFzZSZlPTMtNGwtdjYtZ2Fz.

 

@3JOH22A can you elaborate or point me to a thread talking about the aftermarket cams and bolts? i was about to pull the trigger on the MOOG cam package for the LCAs. also, anyone have experience with pressing the old bushings out with a HF 12 ton press? was thinking it might be worth the $100 investment to buy one to do the LCAs and UCA bushings.

to the OP, i was told by the alignment shop that they couldnt do the alignment, and i would need new LCAs. I'm going to go the route to just replace the bushings and bolts since the LCA is just a stamped piece of steel that I'll take a wire wheel to and give it a coat of paint. I was planning on going with the ES bushings vs the OEM.

 

Good price for ball joints too^^

 

whatever u do dont get the mevotech bushings. They lasted less than a year for me and its not a fun job replacing those bushings. Im running whiteline poly bushings now and dont have any complaints.

 

Thanks that's helpful, I have heard similar complaints about the Moogs.

 

For price comparison purposes on a big order.

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/

 

None of these kits are any good: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,alignment+caster+/+camber+cam+bolt+kit,13512

The D-slot rounds out and the setting becomes loose.

 

What else do I need to order other than lower control arm assemblies? I cannot find the part numbers for the cam bolts and tabs and everything.. which I'm pretty sure I will also need to replace since the bolts are seized into the bushings and will need to be cut off

 

nobody?

 

Find it hard to believe that you can't find the part numbers which really sucks, maybe someone will beat me before I'm back

I'm leaving work now but as soon as I get home I can look something up for you.

And as a follow-up to my last post regarding the bushings not squeaking anymore, I went wheeling on Christmas Eve in the mud and dirt and up to now, they're still silent.

 

The part numbers you seek are in the video description of both videos. Happy Wrenching!

https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM


https://www.youtube.com/embed/6FzEHygizoI