Brake Upgrade: StopTech Rotors + TRD Performance Pads

Sure didn't take 'em long to shed light on the subject.

 

supposedly not opening the bleeder valves when retracting the caliper pistons pushs air back into the ABS module, although the factory FSM manual for 2nd gens doesn't instruct to do so when replacing the pads, I ended up with a squishy pedal after my first pad replacement.

 

If there is no air in the system to begin with then how can this be?

 

I don't know drove me crazy, this is a significant issue in the 2nd gen forums too, in the end I took it to a dealer with a BG brake flush machine for $128 I finally got a decent pedal. I bled and bled, used a Mityvac too no success getting a good pedal

 

I thought I was having the same issue, but in the end i was used to crashnburns pedal feel with the BBK and whatever special system the offroads have.

 

If you don't open the bleeder valves, there is no source for air to be introduced. I've not heard of any issue when doing brakes this way, which is the way I've always done it, including on my 2015 2nd Gen without issue.

Electronic brake boosters to support ATRAC.

 

its seems to be hit or miss, ive never opened the bleeder valves either

 

What size wheel do you have? I've been running Stop Tech slotted with Hawk pads, and while I'm happy with the setup, I've been looking at the StopTech BBK packages. Black Friday deals didn't help lol - I've got 16" TRD rims (from the FJ).

 

I’m running 17s, which tend to have more tire options in C-load. For 16s your only BBK option is the one below I believe, which is a tight squeeze:

https://sosperformance.com/products...-fits-2005-18-toyota-tacoma-w-slash-16-wheels

 

I would be more concerned about pushing contaminated, old, rusty, dirty fluid backwards through the system by not opening a bleeder when pushing the pistons back in. To each his own....

 

That assumes you have neglected maintenance and not flushed your system regularly.

 

I've never seen or heard of deposits on rotors to cause steer wheel shake. It's rarely something other than warped rotors. One guy I know insists on cutting new rotors lightly to get them true because he's bought so many that were warped new out of the box. I got Amazon ac delco rotors that were so warped they couldn't be cut straight. Wheel problems could also cause shake, uneven wear, bent rim, bubble. The rotors can also warp from getting wet while too hot, car wash, deep puddle. Driving hard, stopping hard will put more heat in the rotors increasing chances of warping from water. Any place that cuts rotors will measure them first and tell you if they can't be cut again.

 

What's weird is I couldnt find single place local to me that would cut my slotted rotors, some places was due to the hub size. They said they had to be cut on the truck which made no sense to me

 

Looks like you might have picked up some debris that got stuck between the pad and rotor.

Being a work truck, other factors come to play, like cost. I'm sure you're fine with just replacing pads. Some say rotors should be turned every time pads are replaced, I don't. Turning the rotors does give the new pads a nice flat surface to start off with. So not cutting will increase break in time because the rotors have an imperfect surface. Some places will cut for free if you buy the pads from them, but it adds down time waiting for them to be cut.

Being a work truck driver, mine is severely overloaded carrying way too much weight. So my brakes take a beating. Every time I've done my brakes, the rotors needed to be changed because they looked like shattered glass. If your rotors don't have heat checks, deep grooves, or cracks you can probably get away with not cutting.

 

StopTech 340mm ST60 6 piston BBK

I am running 17" Rock Warrior wheels and want to stay at that size for best tire size selection in reasonable weight C-load tires while still giving good sidewall for off road use. The largest available rotor diameter available for a 17" wheel is the StopTech 340mm rotor, and the best caliper being the 6 piston ST-60. This is the largest diameter rotor and largest caliper available for a 17" wheel. Just like the original thread, I selected slotted rotors. The kit comes with rotors, calipers, caliper mounting brackets, braided lines and pads.

The brake lines have an optional length when ordering, 0-2" lift or 3" lift. I have ~2.5" front lift so I selected the 3" line option. The lines are way too long and clearly for long travel. The picture below is at max drop and have have extra brake line for days. The kit came with StopTechs Street pads, which are their performance ceramic, but I may also swap them out for their Sport semi-metallic pads.



The brake kit removes the dust shield and instead inserts a steel spacer in its place. I was not a fan of that idea, so I ordered the OEM 4runner dust shields for the 338mm rotors. Part numbers below.

2010+ 4Runner dust shields for 338mm rotors
#47781-60140
#47782-60140

To replace the dust shield or even install the spacer, you must pull the hub. This involves:
1) Carefully removing the cover plate with a screwdriver and 5lb hammer
2) Undoing the cotter pin
3) Removing the 35mm bolt that is tightened to 173ft/lbs with an impact gun or pry bar while your assistant holds the hub from rotating. Requires a 35mm socket!
4) Unbolting hub from flange using crescent wrenches behind the rotating assembly
5) Breaking the hub free from the CV splines (shown below, puller not required)
6) Pulling the hub assembly off to remove the dust shield



While the 4runner shields are large enough for the massive rotors, they will not fit the over sized calipers. The shield must be cut and repainted to fit the oversized StopTech calipers. The 4runner shield does have vents, unlike the Tacoma version.

Stock Tacoma vs cut 2010+ 4runner


The StopTech kit used longer bolts to mount the caliper bracket, which interfered with the dust shield. So after having everything installed, I had to remove it all to clearance the dust shield for the caliper bracket mounting bolts. Shown with the caliper mounting bracket bolted into place.



StopTech 340mm rotor vs stock size 319mm


Stock rotors weigh 17.8lbs, StopTech stock size 19.4lbs, StopTech 340mm BBk 22.0lbs. 24% more than stock.


StopTech ST60 Street pads top vs OEM TRD pads bottom
Pad width TRD 4.75", StopTech 6"


Currently still in pad bedding/brake in. Also need to shorten my brake lines and may end up swapping to the Sport pads looking for better cold weather bite this time of year from a semi-metallic vs a ceramic. Also have rear stainless lines to install to further remove play from the system.

I had originally decided to go with the 4runner upgrade, using 4runner 338x32mm rotors and larger calipers, even ordering the parts to do so. But the more I though about it, the more this did not sit well with me. The 4runner uses a significantly different master cylinder with much larger volume and different brake biasing as the 4runner utilizes rear discs. While on the non-ATRAC Tacomas, you can upgrade the master cylinder to a Sequoia master cylinder for increased volume capacity, this isn't practically feasibly on an ATRAC Tacoma. I really wanted something that was designed from the ground up for the Tacoma, and not for another vehicle with an entirely different braking system that would fit into a Tacoma. Increased pedal travel would not be acceptable to me. So I ended up returning all the gear and going with the StopTech kit.

 

Original thread updated with info on braided stainless steel lines and big brake kits.

 

I am compelled to say that your advice presumes the exact opposite of prevailing opinion, as well as my own experiences. It is easy to transfer pad material to the rotors if break-in is not performed properly. Simply holding your foot on the brake pedal, if the rotor is hot, will transfer material from a new set of pads. And this now irregular rotor surface can definitely cause steering wheel shimmy.

Have you considered that choosing to turn the rotors WILL remove any adhering brake material before shaving any actual rotor, giving the illusion of a shaving benefit? And turning the rotors will remove rotor mass, increasing the likelihood of actually over-heating and distorting in the future?

Something to consider.................................Frank

 

Very nice. The Rock Warrior wheels have special high clearance barrels, a 355mm rotor will sneak in there with some calipers, not sure if the Stoptech calipers are in that group. There is no off the shelf 35xmm rotor that will slip on there, though. It will have to be a 2 piece unit.

No less than four Stoptech kits for various Toyota's are enroute to my shop. My insurance was not to keen on my other brake projects.

 

Let me know when you do your rear brake lines, I'll order mine today and we can do them at the same time. I got my brakes all broken in (I think) I did 100 miles of city driving and four 60-10 hard slow downs. My brakes feel way way better than stock. While it's not a night and day difference, it is noticable enough to justify the purchase of the original kit. I'm very interested to see if the rear brake lines will be noticable at all.