The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

It's completely doable if you have basic mechanic tools and some patience. Personally, it's my therapy. I've re-geared my Jeeps myself, but for my Toyotas, ECGS is just too good of a deal to pass up.

Took me about a little over an hour or so to rip out the original 3rds, and about the same to put new ones in. Had a little challenge with the stubborn c-clip on one axle shaft, but couple of swear words and it was knocked back in.

To each their own. I love doing my own work and knowing each and every bolt was tightened correctly to spec and appropriate FIPG was used along with recommended oil.

I have an older friend (he's almost 80) who actually believes his cars run better when he's more emotionally connected to them. He would work on them himself as "spending time with them".

Or, you could be one of those guys/gals who doesn't want to get dirty and would rather spend your time getting a pedi. In which case, nobody will judge you to hire it out

 

Lovely. All that ranting and I forgot to answer your actual question. Here's the link to follow for the front (it's a second gen, but process is still the same). Oh, and I love Chase to pieces, but I think there's a typo on the part where he says the front is only 35lbs. He must have missed a "1" in front of that 35 with those damn brackets attached.

As far as the rear, it's straight forward.

 

Thanks @4X42HEL

 

Currently living in San Diego, heading up to corona to get my 5.29s installed then over to San Bernardino to get a cmc from beastfab then back down to SD. A few days later up to Big Bear for 3 days for Christmas then back down. I will likely go over 500miles but less than 1000. These are REM polished. How much should I be concerned about not changing fluid at 500?

 

Meh. At the end of day you should listen to the installer or the manufacturer (if you're terribly concerned with warranty).

Personally, I'd rather be a bit later than earlier. Give those gears time to grind those teeth and learn each other.

I'm just some guy on the internet, but you're probably going to end up in the sweet spot between 500-1000,assuming you haven't been horse-beating it.

Remember, heat is your enemy. Take a $15 infrared temp gun if you have to and just ensure the diffs don't overheat. That's why your instructed not to offroad, tow or drive more than 20 minutes at a time.

Use 4WD as much as you can.

Lastly, as long as the gears are setup properly, you should be completely fine. Backlash and pinion depth gets the oils in there, preload keeps your bearings optimal etc...

 

Just an update for people wondering how it feels with 5.29's and OVtune...it does feel much better. I'm on 35s with some amour. If you're expecting it to feel like a v8 Tundra it won't but it is a huge improvement over stock gears and tune considering all the mods I do have. It holds 4th often way to long (that has to do with the Tune more so than the gears.) In my opinion the tune puts the truck how it should come from the factory performance wise. I do get horrible fuel economy which I was anticipating. Anywhere from 10-13 mpg.

With that being said I am waiting to see what the 2021 Tundra has in store. Should it be what the rumors are I may be trading.

 

Which shop are you getting your re-gearing done? We have a few trucks in SD looking to get the 5.29s and looking into getting them installed at ProGears here in SD.

 

I'm going to go the ECGS route and swap third members. Is their anything else i should plan to order? i'm planning to use permatex instead of gasket on the rear third.

Awesome info, i'm going to be doing this myself as well and have been reading up on the procedure for both front and rear. if ordering the built diffs from ecgs, is their anything else i need to order? I'm planning on buying a tube of "the right stuff" permatex for the rear diff instead of a gasket. is there anything i need to use the permatex on for the front clamshell? oh and gear oil of course.

 

Yes. Chase will tell you to use the gray permatex for diffs. I'd recommend that as well. You will need to permatex the rear, and also the front diff tube. Don't be too generous. Just use a thin film. Then using your finger, smooth it out.

Torque within 10 minutes of application.

As far as anything else, just make sure to spend the $45 extra for the needle bushing replacement.

Try to get a helper if you can. Not required, but it'd go easy. Also, I used an organizer and labeled all the bolts as I took them out. Make quick work going back in.

 

right on good info so something like this? Permatex ultra grey?

$8 Permatex 82194 Ultra Grey Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, Sensor Safe And Non-Corrosive, For High Torque And Vibration Resistant Applications, 3 oz

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-821...ultra+grey&qid=1575418377&s=automotive&sr=1-1

or this

$11 Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker, 3 oz (Packaging May Vary)

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-811...x+gear+oil&qid=1575418431&s=automotive&sr=1-1

 

Get the gray stuff. You need the vibration, heat and oil properties of it.

 

Martin (not mike) mobile gear

mobile gear installers they do come down to SD and will but don’t have access to a lift down here they typically operate more near Temecula and corona.

 

PM @Baldy he may have what you're looking for. I know he previously ran 4.88 before switching to 5.29

 

Mobile gearing. Interesting.

Does he have a full shop press etc onboard? I'm sure It's doable, but these sorts of jobs sometimes come with one surprise or the other and require that one tool burried deep in the toolbox.

 

So I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my regear. I'm pretty much sold on 5.29's. My truck is a 2019 SR5 with about 3k miles on it. I've got maybe 200-300lbs total of added weight if even that. I'm planning to run 33's and don't really see myself going anything larger in my future. I do drive a fair bit of interstate at 65-75mph during frequent trips from the CA bay area to the Sierra's, but my normal commute is about a 10 mile round trip on town roads. I do tow a 3k dry rpod trailer about 5-10 times a year. I've gone back and forth on 4.88/5.29 quite a bit but think i'm settled unless someone running 5.29 with 33's and stock weight talks me out of it. I look forward to posting back on how the truck performs and hope i'm making the right decision.

 

I assume V6 and AT? Either way 4.88 or 5.29 is winning!!

 

yea V6 auto. I feel like the 4.88’s would net me better mpg and daily drive ability in my scenario honestly, but I don’t want to feel under geared if I’m paying for it. The travels into the Sierra are climbing miles and I do tow a small snowmobile trailer often as well. I’d say it weights about 1200lb with a sled on it in winter months.

 

Pulled the trigger on nitro 5.29’s as well. Running 285’s No armor. Plan on towing tho. Really was split on the 4.88’s too. Either way can’t go wrong.

 

5.29s is absolutely the way to go. IMHO 4.88s would be a waste of time. Your daily drive-ability will be so much better. I commute 12 miles in town for work and it is a dream now. I actually want to drive my truck now.

 

5.29s is where it is at for me.

I pull a trailer, and yes the mpgs went down. However not such a significant amount to negate the gain in drivability.
No more shifting around like mad. Truck actually has some balls now, where before I felt like I had to hit a powerband like on my KTM.
Pics to give you an idea of what I am pulling. Trailer is completely SS. Onboard water, power and built like a tank.

I also pull three bikes up and down mtn passes.
My truck was driving me nuts before I put gears in. Now, as Joe mentioned awhile back. I just drive it.