Replacement Clutch Options

I am going to be replacing my clutch and Timing belt/water pump within the next month or so, I'm at 190,000 on the original clutch and 110k on the timing belt. I have called around to dealerships and they are around 2000-2200 to do both. Most of them are offering a re-manufactured clutch and wanted to see if anyone on here has any experience with these or if its better to get another brand and have a local shop do it. Its mainly for daily driving but will occasionally be towing a 20' camper. I don't have the tools or time to take on both of these tasks so looking to get a shop to do it in Charlotte, NC.


Truck is 04 Extended Cab 3.4 4x4

 

I did the 'whole enchilada' timing belt using the Timmy the Toyotaman video. Just replying in order to subscribe to the thread to see what other guys suggest on the clutch. I have around 190K on a factory clutch, too.

 

My clutch bit the dust this weekend . I had just installed some billies on it too so I was looking forward to driving the thing. Either way, I've looked at a couple threads regarding clutches. Seems most people consider Marlin to be the higher end option? Opinions? I saw another thread that said Marlin installs Chinese bearings on their clutches that fail after 2 years. I was hoping to get a consensus before I hit the go button

 

What Timing belt and Water pump did you go with ?

 

I only use genuine Toyota OEM parts. You can buy a "kit" for the 90K mile timing belt service that includes all the belts, water pump, etc. etc. on Ebay.

 

The first generation Toyota Tacoma was produced by the Toyota Motor Corporation from 1995.5 to 2004. The majority of these first generation Tacomas equipped with a manual transmission came off the assembly line from the factory with an Aisin manufactured clutch. The part number for the replacement clutch kit from Aisin is

$233 CKT-040 OE Matched Clutch Kit - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma, Tundra

CKT-040. This is considered a Stage One style clutch kit.

Some of the first generation Tacomas came off the assembly line with a LuK clutch kit. LuK’s main products include chassis components and systems, technologies for clutches and transmissions as well as engine components and drives for hybrid and electric vehicles. The part number for the replacement clutch kit from Luk is P/N 04-905. This is also considered a Stage One style clutch.

Most non-dealer garages use either LuK or Sachs clutch kits when replacing clutches on first generation Tacomas. Transmission shops seem to be partial to LuK clutch kits.

Stage Two clutch kits are a much more aggressive clutch kit than Stage One clutch kits. They are designed to handle rigs with performance modifications in which engine horsepower is greater than stock. As a result, they can handle abuse much better than Stage One style clutch kits, but from what I have read, they are a little harder to use than Stage One clutch kits.

Centerforce and Marlin are manufacturers of Stage Two clutch kits. Hard core off-roaders and performance enthusiasts prefer Stage Two clutch kits. As a result, these people prefer Centerforce and Marlin Stage Two style clutch kits when replacing their clutch kits. Centerforce and Marlin also manufacture stage one clutch kits.

Hope that helps,
Paul

 

TRD also offered a clutch for the Gen1 Tacoma. Any idea who made that for them? Stage 1? Stage 2?

Here it is, from an older TRD catalog:

"performance CLUTCH KITS
The clutch is the means by which power is transferred from the engine to the transmission. Make sure you’ve got the ideal clutch for your specific engine. TRD performance clutch kits ensure positive engagement with smooth operation.

TACOMA ’95 - ’04, 3.4L V6 PTR15-89960-20"

 

It's still Aisin just modifed

 

Before anyone chooses to install anything made by LuK on a Tacoma, please look into all of the recalls and service bulletins that relate to them. My 2011 shipped with a LuK. It started slipping severely at 15000 km (just as it was breaking in -- surfaces no longer "rough") and was replaced under a service bulletin with an Aisin. The tech who did the work said the LuK was in all respects "like new". The springs on the pressure plate were simply not strong enough to hold the whopping big torque of this 4-cyl. I've since put over 200,000 km on this Aisin and it still performs perfectly.

And for you guys playing around with the earlier V6's, its essentially the same transmission and clutch. The pressure plate part you want is an Aisin CTX107, and for friction disk, DTX136.

Contrary to what some service departments claim, it makes no difference if your truck shipped with one or the other, they're interchangeable. Just make sure that the disk and pressure plate are themselves compatible -- in other words, don't put an Aisin pressure plate on a LuK disk.

 

They are both pretty big jobs but well within the capability of a DIY Mechanic in possession of the Right Tools and also possesses the Right Level of Patience. If you have the space, $2200 will buy you a crap load of tools that you will benefit from for future money saving jobs. And, when you do it yourself, you know it was done right.

Watch both Part 1 and Part 2. Part 2 shares other helpful information like an easier way to get the timing belt on.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc

https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I

Clutch Replacement Series - Center Force seems like a good way to go for a clutch and pressure plate.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/5PJPZ5-AK-I

https://www.youtube.com/embed/mrSRBmFZ1wk

 

Harbor freight transmission jacks start at $100.
The only other thing you need is a BUNCH of socket extensions (because everybody already has a half decent socket set and a torque wrench, right?).
Some people like to use a clutch alignment tool as well ($5-$10), but I've never found them to be necessary.

 

With the Center Force Stage 2 Clutch our buddy Dan purchased for the videos I linked, the clutch alignment tool comes with the kit.

 

I can't speak for other people's experience, but mine came with Nachi bearings.

 

Took my buddy and I about 14 hours to do the clutch in my 04 extended cab 4x4 years ago at 125k miles.. Transmission jack and tons of extensions to remove the transmission bolts to the engine are critical (from memory). I bought a Sachs brand clutch, probably a cheap brand but it worked flawless for 65k miles until I sold the truck.