Double Cab Backseat Dometic Fridge Mount

Nice! I really like how you kept it folding and kept your rear plastics.

I removed the plastics behind the seat back so I could slide the fridge as far back as possible. I also wired in a dedicated 12v panel for power. My fridge is also a CFX50 for reference.

 

That looks really clean, I was thinking about removing the rear plastic as well, but since I am short, it still fit lol. I have been meaning to bring 12V back for power as well, I may copy you.

What did you do with the big metal ring that the seat latches too? Did you cut that off?

 

No, I notched out the plywood to make space for that, as I didn't want to cut it off. The carpet covers it just fine. I was actually going to use it as a rear tie-down for the fridge, but my fridge is too low, so I just tie it down in the front as shown. That spot seemed about perfect for the 12v panel.

 

Thank you.

 

Very Nice!!

Where'd you get that power point??

 

Picked it up on Amazon,

Blue Sea Systems Panel SCK USB & Volt (D)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074FH81GQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I bought the pre-built one, but you can buy the pod size you're looking for and add whatever outlets you need. I have it wired to an auxiliary fuse block under the hood.

*Edit* Wow, I just noticed the price went up drastically on that panel. I think I paid $70, so shop around to find a better price.

 

gman36 - Any updates on the setup, any changes you'd make now? I'm really liking what you did here. Might have to start a new project...

 

I am interested in updates too. My CFX75 is getting delivered tomorrow and I too am hoping to mount it inside of the cab behind the drivers seat. I am short at 5’4” so If I delete the rear seat it may fit.

 

@waytolatetothegame At the moment everything is working out pretty well. It does need tiedowns, but the fridge doesn't move much with the offroading I do. If I were to do it again, I may mount the top 3/4" sheet on top of the seat mounts instead of underneath it. Then I could get another inch of clearance below the shelf.

 

Has anyone seen or tried the goose gear rear seat delete?

I’m sure I can build one way cheaper but I like the “finished look” of the goose gear

https://www.goose-gear.com/products/toyota-tacoma-2nd-row-seat-delete-for-2nd-and-3rd-generations

 

@Hstone556 hey do you have any other pics or info on your setup and how you got your cfx75 to fit? Did you remove the back panel behind the seat?

 

I can get some more pictures tomorrow, I’m actually swapping it with a cfx50 just because it just puts me in a position to where it isn’t comfortable for my busted ass back. I had to remove the bar behind the seat that secures the seatback. I also had to remove the driver side cubby and trim a bit of the passenger side cubby to get it move over enough to open the rear compartment of the fridge. It works well, just decided I don’t need the dual zone capability enough to justify the discomfort on longer trips. I have the cfx50 just sitting around so I’m swapping it out.

 

Th

Thanks for the reply! Pics would be awesome! But yea it sounds like I may just have to put it in a bed slide in the bed of my truck.

 

Yeah mine was originally from in my bed, but with my bed cover and swing out on my bumper it was a pain to open it all up to get a beer... so I went this route. I just happen to have the 50 otherwise I was going to have to do something else.

 

Thanks @gman36 for the inspiration. I just got a CFX35 and it’s short enough that I can support the front with a vertical riser right at the wall where the seat cushion hinges attach, so I bolted it to those mounting holes. Not as elegant as the hinged drop down support, but it frees up all the space to the seat back. I may mod it after I use it a bit, but for now it’s better than just sitting on the seat back or on the lumpy sunder-seat surface. Unfortunately the 35 hinges at the back (ie short end) so the lid can’t open all the way before hitting the headliner, but there’s enough room to get stuff in and out.

 

Ah yes that is the problem with every dometic under the 50, they all hinge up from the back and it will hit the roof. When I measured it out, I couldn't get the 40 low enough to open up a lot. That is why I went with the 50 instead of the 40. Although, the hinge from the back is nice because you can access the fridge from the front seats for a road soda. The side hinge blocks front seat access to the fridge when open.

 

The 35 is lower and I think shorter than the 40 so the lid probably opens a bit further before hitting the roof. I might make a little kickstand for the lid.

 

Clean.

 

I am planning to run this same setup with the 50 in a couple of weeks on 3 week road trip to CA, AZ and UT. So glad I finally came across this thread.

I am trying to learn fast on the wiring requirements for direct battery connection. Would that Blue Sea System be a better option than the Dometic kit? Is there a kit available for handle the rest of the wiring? Trying to make this clean and simple if possible.

 

I've never seen that Dometic one. I do like my Blue Sea Systems panel posted above. It was really pretty easy to install. The hardest part was sourcing all the parts, connectors and wiring needed. Once you have it all, it goes together easy.

I did the quick and dirty Blue Sea Systems distribution block and breaker double-side taped to my fuse box. I honestly forgot what size wiring I used to the fuse block and then back to the panel (Maybe 4 and 10 respectively). I cut all cabling to length and user weather proof connectors and color matched heat shrink where I could. I grounded the Blue Sea Systems panel behind the back seat somewhere. I'll get one of those fancy aluminum trays for the distribution block at some point, but for now this is working for me.