Long Travel BS Thread

Closing and opening the tubes just controls the amount of fluid going around the piston when the piston is in that zone. Therefore letting you run more valving for a better bump zone without feeling the extra stiffness in the rest of the shock travel.

 

Yeah, thanks. I understand the general concept of how the bypass shock works, just trying to learn a little more. Trying to actually learn how to tune them and I like to understand the specifics of what is actually going on.

 

Anyone with a dmz kit Have any advice? I have a 0.010 stack for rebound and I am thinking I should be running 0.008. My rebound tube is all the way open. Feels like the suspension is packing in.

 

8 stack for sure and keep that tube wide open. Leafs need all the help that can get on rebound

 

If anyone is Orange County local I’ve got some light bars for sale
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5owNiIAfjZ/?igshid=1tmb2bwmwdq0g

 

Sexy

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5niayQH5fm/?igshid=1ajexshiw3p6b

 

Wheelers over DuroBumps? whats best?

 

I ordered a set of Durobumps and will give them a shot.
Durobumps says “no loss of uptravel” compared to the Wheelers and they’re specifically made for each truck.

 

Don’t know anyone that’s run the durobumps but they appear to be very similar. Durobumps appear to be taller than wheelers and if so they will come into contact with the local sooner which means they will effect more of the shock travel.

No loss of uptravel is in reference to stock meaning they will squish down to the same size as stock ones squished.

 

Don’t think they’ll effect more of the shock travel if they’re designed to squish down to the length of stock. The Durobumps are also made of a different runner compound apparently than to the wheelers.

 

If they contact the lca sooner they have a longer effective range of damping. They’re both a soft rubber so the 1/2-1 inch or so longer that they are than wheelers probably won’t be noticeable.

 

I picked up a set of duros on cyber monday, along with all that other useless steel and parts for a LT kt... Curious to see how they perform.
My brother has duros on his 4r and seems to like them.

 

Bringing this back around to his original question...
Quoted from @Plastics Guy himself, he claims
“Mybump stop allows for approximately 2" of unimpeded up-travel prior to making contact. (compared to wheelers). This allows for the valving/dampening of oursuspension to do its job. Also due to the angle the Wheelers bumps compress many guys have hadthem separate from there base.”

In addition to that, spacers will have to be added to the Wheelers anyway to prevent your tire from smashing into the fender since they’re a soft compound.

 

What inner fenders?

 

That statement was for people who still ran them haha

 

Oh lol.

But regardless, both bumps are a softer rubber and will probably feel very similar when in use. It just makes the harsh hit of the stock bumps a little better. If you’re riding your bump stops so much that a slight compound difference makes a difference then you probably need to revalve your shocks to keep from bottoming out so often.

 

After running both on an otherwise identical setup: durobumps.

The wheelers are full of spong foam, not solid rubber. I was smashing through them, and while it was better than OE it wasn't very progressive. The durobump is progressive, and noticably so if you hit it hard enough.

Agree you don't want to be in them all the time, but when you need them it's a big step up.

 

These inner fenders

 

Yeah, those gonna get rubbed if you're using your up-travel.

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