Sliding glass window replacement

Hey long story short, Threw a piece of firewood in my bed it bounced up and busted out my right side slider window. Anyone ever replaced one before? If so what was the price and work involved? Sorry I've never done any kind of glass work before. It's a 99 taco prerunner sr5 king cab

 

You will need a whole new back window and a window install company to install it. It's practically impossible for a DIYer to install glass without the proper equipment.

 

$320 from safelite

Edit: That price was for my second gen, not sure why this wasn't posted in the first gen section, price may be different

 

Glass is usually covered by insurance for free

 

I had a similar issue. Of the three panes that make up the rear window I just broke the center sliding glass one.

The dealer said it would cost $375+ to fix.

I ordered the part for around $170 and hope to do it myself.

Curious if anyone else has tried and succeeded.

 

Thanks Oswego!

Joining the forum already seems to be paying off.

I am curious about the standard pricing. I was under the impression that the part I ordered was JUST the center sliding pane and not the whole rear window.

Since i plan to do it myself any pointers/instructions/suggestions/how-not-to-make-a-small-problem-into-a-larger-more-expensive-problem tips would be appreciated.

So far, I haven't seen posts for someone else who completed this project.

Thanks again.

 

Anyone have any experience with the electric windows? They seem like a nice upgrade. I hate reaching back to open mine.

 

Oswego,
The dealer called me today to say they misquoted the part price. Turns out it the window would cost $500 so I think I'll go the route you suggest.

Thanks again for your input.

 

I put a back window in a 1st generation. Get a helper and 10-12 feet of 1/4" rope.
Instructions


Things You'll Need:

• <LI itxtvisited="1">Flathead screwdriver <LI itxtvisited="1">Assistant <LI itxtvisited="1">15-feet of 1/4-inch rope
• Slider rear window

1. <LI id=jsArticleStep1 itxtvisited="1" sizcache="13" sizset="56">1
   Open the cab doors and use the flathead screwdriver to work the rubber seal around the back window out from the inside of the vehicle towards the outside. The flathead screwdriver can push the rubber lip out, then can be drug around the mounting lip to remove the rubber. Make sure the assistant is holding the glass from the outside while you are pushing out the seal. Then remove the back glass.
   <LI id=jsArticleStep2 itxtvisited="1">2
   Place the rope in the rubber seal around the slider window, leaving at least 12-inches of rope hanging outside of the rubber seal. Make sure the rope goes around the entire perimeter of the glass and stays in the channel.
   <LI id=jsArticleStep3 itxtvisited="1">3
   Place the window in the window channel on the cab of the truck with the excess rope on the inside of the vehicle. Have your assistant hold the glass in place while you move to the inside of the vehicle.
   <LI id=jsArticleStep4 itxtvisited="1">4
   Start to pull one end of the rope, parallel to the ground, while the assistant pushes the glass in towards the interior. This is going to pull the rubber seal out and around the factory lip, mounting the glass in place.
2. 5
   Continue to pull the rope around the glass while the assistant follows you, pushing in the window. Once you've gone around the entire window, you may have to use the flathead screwdriver to pull some of the rubber seal towards the inside of the cab, just to clean it up a bit.

Read more: How to Replace a Rear Window With a Slider | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5712977_replace-rear-window-slider.html#ixzz105pyZvwq

 

damn those are expensive! a long time ago my friend locked his keys in his truck and he was talkin about breakin the small side window and my friend convince him the cheapest way to go would be to break the windshield lmao i didnt stick around to see it all play out but how crazy is that right?

lol good luck with your repair tho

 

Quick Google search turned up this listing.

http://www.truckininstyle.com/latemodelsliders.htm

Don't know anything about the company but should give you an idea what's out there.

 

I thought the same thing. I'm surprised he didn't laugh when he said how much it would cost.

I'm good with a 1st Gen version. My truck is a 2001 and still has a tape deck so to me, the electric version seems like it's ....from the Future.

Oddly, I think that CRL location is the farthest away you can be and still be in the same state. Do they have one in Kentucky? I'll look around.

Thanks

 

Oswego,
CRL said they won't sell direct but put me in touch with one of their vendors.
(L.K. Technologies)

They are sending the same item for $329 cheaper than the dealer.

I owe you a beer.

Thanks.

 

I was recruited to help with the install. By the time I got there the OEM window was already out.

The new one went in surprisingly easy. So easy in fact we both looked at each other and said, "We did it wrong." Then Marty said, "I knew I should have videoed it. There isn't a good video of how to install the window."

I suggested popping the window out just so we could reinstall it and video it. But we decided it probably wouldn't be so easy the second time so the window stayed put.

-Bob

 

In response to all the great feedback I have received from this forum, I think it is only fair that I share how my broken rear sliding glass window situation was resolved.

1) I received the replacement window from CL technologies the day after I ordered it. (Total cost with shipping was $171.48.) Oswego’s link & input saved me roughly $321 and their service was incredible.


2) REMOVAL OF OLD WINDOW: I set aside Saturday afternoon to remove the old window and insert the new one. It was incredibly easy.
a. From the inside of the vehicle, I lowered the rear seats (I have a double cab) and popped off the plastic covering just below the window frame.
(Not entirely necessary but I wanted to see what I was doing.)
b. I started on the right side at the bottom of the old window frame. Using a flathead screwdriver, I gently touched the metal of my truck frame below the gasket and worked the tip up until I could feel the upper metal edge under the gasket. With gentle pressure I lifted the screwdriver up, exposing the top of the metal windowframe. I used a second flathead screwdriver to hold the gasket up and used the first one again and inch further down the frame to do the same thing.
c. Once about two inches of metal were exposed the gasket seemed to unseat itself. While just holding the gasket up, I set off a chain reaction that slowly moved around the window frame.
I watched the rubber lip curl over the metal as it moved up the side and across the top of the window. The same thing happened to the left of my starting point and the gasket uncurled across the bass of the window frame. It looked smooth, harmless and less likely to damage the gasket so I just let it go.
d. In just a moment the whole window popped free and while holding the open center pane, I set it down in the bed of my truck.
e. Step one complete.


3) INSTALLING THE NEW WINDOW
a. This took about 10 minutes.
b. The large channel in the gasket (where the metal of the truck frame goes) is pretty obvious. Into this channel you place a strand of 1/4” rope/cord. I had a 50’ roll but only needed about 14 feet. It should fit snuggly and deeply into the channel. I started inserting the rope at the bottom and worked my way around the window so that the beginning and end of the rope met at the bottom of the window frame.
NOTE: I was careful to insert it such that “extra” cord didn’t bind and it laid neatly flat in the channel all the way around.
c. I then sprayed some WD-40 onto the rope all the way around the gasket to facilitate removal and I can tell this helped.
d. My helper sat in the bed of the truck and held the window in place by lining up the gasket channel (with rope inside) with the top of the metal windowframe.
(In hindsight, I should have spent more time making sure the window was centered left/right but we eyeballed it and lucked out.)
e. While he held the window in place, I gently pulled the rope which lifted the lip of the gasket as it came out from the channel.
(He applied gentle pressure to the spot where I was working and that seemed to help.)
f. As I pulled the rope, the gasket lifted and settled on the inside edge of the metal frame. As I pulled, I could hear my helper say he thought it wasn’t working.
i. From my perspective it looked like it was working perfectly.
ii. From the truck bed it looked odd until about half the rope was removed. The window appears to be sticking out too far then suddenly “drops in” or seats itself close to the frame.
g. I continued to pull the rope until the gasket was completely in place and the window was seated properly.
h. Then I stood there dumbfounded.

In short, this was incredibly easy and the afternoon I had dedicated to this project was not necessary. The total job took about 15 minutes. We actually joked that we should remove the window and video tape it to post on YouTube. (I couldn’t find any videos that detailed this process) Knowing my luck though, I would remove the window again, rip the gasket or do something stupid that would make me open a new thread about ripped gaskets, removing scratches, or removing flathead screwdrivers from my forehead. Put simply, I decided to be happy with my progress and call it complete.

So that’s it.

Thanks again to Oswego for the part link and guidance, Tonto340 for the directions and thanks to Bob for the 3 hours you set aside but 8 minutes of help you needed.

Biscay89

Bonus question. If breaking the rear window costs a minimum of $171.48 then is it the cheapest window to bust in this scenario? Should I have taken out the windshield? Passenger window? For the purpose of this MYTHBUSTERS-like moment, let’s say you want to steer clear of insurance and pay out-of-pocket. Your keys are locked in your car, you have a rock and somewhere to be in 20 minutes. Which window do you take out to incur the least amount of repair cost?

 

Not a problem. You know I'll do almost anything for free pizza.

-Bob

 

biscay do you have a link for the company you purchased the window from? I am in a similar situation.

 

Long story short a friend busted my rear slider in my 09' DCSB. Since the frame was wrecked as well needed a complete window. The dealer quoted some ridiculous 1000+ price so I allowed him to put in an after market for 400. The end result is noticeably louder and I have regretted letting him do it ever since.

 

Were you able to just replace a single window. So far every one wants to replace the whole window. From $227 to > $500. Does any one know some one who will do just the left pane of glass. Dark tint. Thnx Sioux998