COMPLETED 5th Gen 4Runner BBK upgrade for 2nd Gen Tacomas

Just unsub now, you're not going to do it....

 

2018+ Camry 2019+ Avalon have a 23mm plus diameter master cylinder that may be a bolt in. No adapter or line extensions are required for the fit up... verifying this next week.

 

Haha I need To do something with all this extra weight and my 17’s just looking for all the options.

 

Interested to hear the results of this. My biggest gripe/ concern about swapping the master cylinder is dealing with or losing the brake booster and abs. Less concerned about losing abs as the majority of my truck use is off road, but without the brake booster I’m concerned braking power will significantly decrease. With the tundra/ sequoia master cylinder I’ve read that you can use their brake booster and it plugs right in, but that’s a big added cost to the equation

 

Finally bolted these hotrods on my 2017 Offroad.. went Powerstop because ordering was easier. Look and stop reallll nice.

 

I think I asked in one of the other threads on this upgrade, has anyone installed the 4R dust shields on Maxtrac spindles before. If and what do I need to cut to make them fit? Kind of a bummer spending $100+ on dust shields and having to cut them up.

 

@Vanguard

 

If it’s a sport it’s bolt on. For the off-road with the electronic master it’s not bolt on.

 

Sub'd for later.

I'm due to rebuild my calipers on my 2010 and the brakes feel soft now that I have more weight.

Admit that I didn't read all 14 pages, can anyone confirm which year 4R setup work? 2010-2014 and/or 2015+ the same? Want to price things out but not sure which model 4R I need to reference.

 

Pretty sure it’s all at least up to 14/15. As long as they are the 14WA caliper you’re good.

 

hard to say but possibly a little. It varies with folks with gusseted spindles which would be similar. I had to trim some off to fit the willwood. Still larger than the Tacoma one. If they fit with the stock shields they will probably work with these. I did a few relief cuts in the middle and pushed them away from the rotor and it’s been fine.

 

Thanks. Is there a bracket the caliper rides in? Looks like the remans only include the caliper.

Edit: I don't see it in any pictures I can find. I don't know if I am going crazy or just thinking about other brake setups I've done.

 

The bracket is built into the caliper so what you are seeing is correct. No additional adapter like aftermarket stoptech/willwood setups.

 

Thanks.

 

Stumbled on this thread while researching larger MC options. Saw a few comments asking about T4R parts and years and all.

I have a 2011 DCLB Sport 4x4 with stock rear drums, spindle gussets.
Front brakes are all 2016 T4R: calipers, pads, rotors, dust shields, wheels.

100% bolt-up. Ever-so-slight bending of the dust shields to fit the spindles -- just some finger pressure after bolting them on, nothing more.

If you're considering doing the T4R bbk upgrade, and want a solid and easy ordering experience, just spec a 2016 model year. Calipers, pads, rotors, dust shields are literally all you need (okay, fluid too), assuming you've already got 17" wheels (mine were 16").




And if you want specifics on my brands: PowerStop calipers, Centric rotors, Porterfield pads, ATE Typ II fluid. Been running Porterfield R4S compound for years, and can't imagine anything on the market that's better.

 

Should be 2010-current T4R. Other tip to is the pads are the same as the Tacoma so easy interchange.

It was a nice upgrade for not too much. Did you go OEM or remans?

 

My understanding is that the 2016+ T4R increased the size marginally. 100% bolt-on, but larger than 2010-2015. Why not go bigger, if only by a millimeter or two?

Besides, my point wasn't to quibble over years or give a range. I wanted to let people know that if they wanted a specific year with which to go to the parts counter, I can say from experience that 2016 is proven to work.

 

If you have the specs send it over we can add it. The big thing to consider is the master. That’s still the weak point and not made to handle the extra braking.

but let us know and I’ll add it but the 2016 still uses the same 338mm (13.3”) rotor.

 

Sub

 

For you and OP and anyone else who may be knowledgeable on the subject, wouldn't going with a larger piston increase clamping force on the rotor for the same amount of pedal force and in turn throw off the brake balance a little? Not sure it would be enough to be concerned about but I am not a engineer with the necessary knowledge. My laymans concern is that the fronts would do more of the braking work and the rears less possibly causing accelerated front tire wear. Maybe with heavy cargo loads or trailer weight the rears would be even less useful and the fronts would have to do even more work?

I did the 13WL "upgrade" on my 1st gen a few years ago and I was very happy with it so I plan to do this on my 2015 sport but thought there may be some answers to my questions here.