What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I found Redline cheaper to by the gallon...

$91 Red Line 57905 75W90 GL-5 Synthetic Gear Oil for Hypoid Limited Slip Differentials - 1 Gallon

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-579...omotive&sprefix=redline,automotive,204&sr=1-1

Get yourself a pump dispenser for said fluid transfer.

$17 Slippery Pete Fluid Pump for Gallon Bottles and Wide Mouth Quart Bottles (Not for Standard Quart Bottles) - Transfer Gear Oil, Transmission and Differential Fluid, Antifreeze with This 30cc Hand Pump

https://www.amazon.com/Slippery-Pet...tomotive&sprefix=gallon,automotive,207&sr=1-2

And, don't forget, always loosen the fill plug first.

 

I just did the tack weld and tilt ball shim mods. Both were easy and really firmed up the steering.

Tilt ball found here...


Shim cut out of an oil container...


Tack welded slip joint...


Timmy video explaining it all...

 

Ended up buying the gallon after all and had the pump too.
Thank you.

Edit: bought the gallon MT90 not the one you posted. Oh well

 

You guys need to rev match to get into first when down shifting. Don't force it. You can drive a manual without a clutch if you learn this. I wouldn't do it all the time but it's definitely a good thing to know when the time arises that something fail with the clutch you'll still be able to make it home.

 

Tac weld mod was the single best improvement I have done to my truck.

 

Re-keyed the lock on the pass door. I hate watching videos on how to do something, they cover the basic stuff but leave out the part that is giving me trouble!

 

My steering wheel rocks side to side, and up and down at the pivot point where it tilts. Do you think the shim in the tilt ball mod would cure it.

 

Anyone got a line/link on some new rear shackles?

Current setup is:

1. custom shackles from prior owner.
2. New Dakars with AAL (want to remove the AAL) as of April 2019
3. New U bolts as of April 2019
4. New main leaf bolts greaseable (daystars)
5. 5125 Billies at 10.25"

Looking at Wheelers for the greaseable set with 2.5" lift but don't want the front body lift ($220)
Don't want stock height.

@drr

@Blackdawg

@cynicalrider

@BlackPearl

 

Why not remove the AAL and install OME greaseable shackles?

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/1998...d-man-emu-greaseable-shackle-kit-omegs12.html

 

Couldn't hurt. Doesn't take very long to get the column apart and all you need to make the shim is a piece of pliable plastic (I did like @Timmah! did in the video and used an old oil container). Once you get the assembly out and inspect the tilt ball it'll be very apparent if that's the root cause or not.

 

Yes, AAL is coming out soon.

Is the OME greaseable what you have now?

 

I had a set but never actually ran them.
I got them and was going to install once I installed the new all pro expedition leafs but they didn't work with those leafs, only work for OME dakers.

 

Still have them?
are they stock height?

 

Pulled this asshole today. Wasn't as bad as everyone says though. Going to send it to ECGS next week.

 

Regear. And night as well make the financially sounds decision to add a locker I'll probably never use...

 

you have a 'less than firm' steering wheel but no wind rattle in the vents driving highway speeds with fresh air coming in (with or without the fan on)
my steering wheel has no noticeable change (yet) its never been better, but i do have the most insane rattle that is even worse now that the heater is on!

i would like to see you fix the rattle in the vents 'just pretend its there' so i know how involving this will be to fix it, i have peeked up behind the passenger area with the glovebox out to see what's up there.
your truck may be different with having the passenger airbag behind the dash (i don't really know since I am not there)

 

Doug Thorley Headers went on, every thing fit just right except the EGR pipe is incorrect. It’s actually for the black gen supercharger, not the gray supercharger, So had to have a custom EGR pipe made and was a huge pita.

 

Yup...but i like having it for when it is ever needed. Not often. Lol

 

Just for clarification, my steering was pretty tight and I didn't really "need" to do the tack weld mod or the tilt ball shim. I did notice a certain vibration over washboard stuff though. It was all attributed to the tack weld and I did the tilt ball as a "while I have it apart" mod.

No problems with HVAC/vents though. Sorry, but I'm certainly not going to disassemble/reassemble components if I don't have a need. You know, if it ain't broke...

 

I believe that’s where the slop was, in the slip joint. I believe that the shaft was not fully inserted the upper rag joint/u-joint and too far into the lower rag joint, at the rack. I haven’t had a chance to drive it again, not have I had anyone around to turn the wheel while I look from underneath. Once everything was back together, there seems to be a difference in movement. I don’t believe I’m having to turn the wheel as far before the wheels start turning. However, it does feel like there’s a slight catch when turning...like you hit a slightly stiff spot.

FWIW, everything else checks out. Rack, guide, bushings, TRE, everything is tight. I started checking the upper joint after taking it to get aligned and trying to figure out the steering shake. With it on the rack and moving the steering wheel, there was noticeable slop looking up into the joint area. I say the joint area since the joint isn’t visible without taking the column out.

tack weld mod has been done. Haven’t done the tilt ball shim, may do it just because now. I’ll watch timmys video.

I didn’t really know what to search for, so I didn’t know if anyone had ran into trouble with this joint, or had seen where it actually went ‘bad’