3rd Gen Owners with King Coilovers

hey i want to appreciate you for the bit of guidance you provided recently when i was looking at options including revalving my Fox Pro shocks. i ended up taking your suggestion that the 2.5's are just not gonna do what i want regardless of valving.

i bought a full set of stage 3 King 3.0's with IBP ext res and adjusters on 600lb springs. (33001-209A & 33001-210). if this doesn't do it nothing will. I'll be on the stock config from the get go, so if i need to dial these in I'll be in touch. very excited to get these!

 

What does servicing the shocks involve? Removal of course, but then we need to ship them to kings? How long is this process and how expensive? Seems a bit inconvenient, maybe by the time mine are due for servicing I’ll have a motorcycle to get me around...

 

Regular shocks usually last around 50k (depending on use), but are not rebuildable. Most King shocks are and can be sent to King or to us for a complete rebuild. New seals, oil and any other part that is worn out. This can make them nearly brand new again. Yes they would need to be removed and sent in.

 

So I keep seeing a reference of "top of hat" to the center of the lower bolt. What's "top of hat"? I'm sure it was said somewhere in the last 131 pages Is that top of the hat the spring sits up against or is the hat the part you bolt to the upper strut tower?

Also, can you adjust Kings while they are still assembled? Would I be able to remove the weight off them and adjust them, do I need to completely pull them to adjust them? I installed Kings extended and Dakars in the rear and I got more lift from the Dakars so my rake is more than factory now and I'd like to get it closer to level. The ride is good how it is and I will be towing a little so I would rather not pull leafs from the pack.

 

The top hat is the furthest to the top where it touches the truck. You should be able to adjust the coil overs on the truck but like you said, take the weight off of them and jack them up. Also take it slow and lube the threads, preferably dry lube so it doesn’t accumulate dirt later. If you start to notice the shock body move along with the turns, STOP. It hasn’t done that on mine but that’s why Kings recommends adjusting them off the truck. But it’s feasible on the truck just be careful. The T-handle helps a lot and makes it easy. Don’t forget to loosen the pinch bolt, good luck

 

This may be a dumb question but can I run kings without changing upper control arms on a 3rd gen? All I’m trying to achieve is a level ride to the rear stock height. Btw how much lift is needed in the front to be leveled with stock ride height in rear? I really want todo this right please educate me.

 

Maybe a new OP should be assigned so post 1 can be updated with more relevant information? I’m not the one to do it, but it could be a great resource if someone took ownership. Any volunteers?

@tcBob

 

curious too...

 

I have the measurements at home of when I installed the front kings only at where I sat. IIRC I was about 1.25" of lift. This was on a 2020 Sport. I'll get the numbers when I get home and post them up.

 

about to join the club. got my tracking numbers as my Foxes have basically collapsed.

any DFW guys, is Tandem the best choice for setup/install? that's been my plan but i haven't asked Pablo about it yet.

 

For anyone here who may know, what should the rear 2.5 smooth body shocks (non compression adjuster) be pressurized to?

Edit* that would be 150psi

 

If you keep it at 2" or lower you'll be fine.

 

Alright, quick question. About adjustments.

So just picked up a Kings with 700lb springs and rear with Dakar standard leaf pack, bump stops and camburg uca. I've been doing research trying to find out where to start off with the height adjustment.

From my understanding they come from the factory preloaded at about an inch for 3rd gen Tacoma. I'm thinking I'd like to get it to 2.5" ish lift to level and take care of the lean. So my math said roughly 8 turns on the driver and 6 on the passenger. Does that sound about right?
The truck is a 2019 DCOR will have sliders, 285/75/16 tires with a bed rack and rtt soon. Skids and possible a bumper in spring.

Thanks.

 

I think it honestly varies from one truck to the next; my 19' has a difference of 5 turns comparing driver to passenger. I'm on 13 turns driver and 8 turns passenger to get it level..
Also, 700lb springs will be pretty stiff along w the 33's. I'd be looking at 600 or 650's. I went stiffer after front low pro and winch to 650, but I miss how smooth the 600's rode on the street.

 

Do you know roughly how much lift that is with your setup? Assuming the 700 will need less to achieve the same height.

 

I'm at 39" from ground to fender
285/75/16's, sliders, low pro bumper, winch. 650lb springs
so maybe around 8 driver, 5 passenger might be a good starting point for you?

 

Hey gents, just got my Kings w/ 700's in today. Am looking for some experience here.

So I've been using Accutune's guide to decide on my spring rate, but having some trouble "interpreting it". I get it's meant to be a general overview. https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/coilover-spring-rates-for-toyota-tacoma-4runner/

So according to the article,

14" 650's
-Skids, Sliders, Steel Bumper, Winch, Dual Batteries, (Rear bumper?)

14" 700's
- Skids, Sliders, Steel Bumper, Winch, Dual Batteries, Bed Rack, RTT, Additional armor, (Rear bumper w/ swingout?)


I have Full Skids, Sliders, Steel Front Bumper, Winch w/ steel line, Bed Rack, RTT, Roof Rack w/gear. So it's like, I technically fit the 700 bill, but just not with dual batteries.

However, others have recommended to me to go 14" 650's as well as the local shock shop that would be doing my spring swap. They say it's going to be a softer ride, but here I am, wondering if a second battery really makes that much difference.

Over the next few months I will be getting a second battery. So more weight will added up front.

Also, Accutune includes mods on the rear of the vehicle into the factor of front springs. How does that work? Is there some geometry I'm not thinking of in regards to weight distribution? I have Dakar HD's in the rear. More than enough capacity for what I have back there at the moment. Rear bumper will be added eventually as well.

 

if you're certain to add the 2nd battery then 700's are a no-brainer... no?

 

What I was thinking, why swap to 650's for a few months and then swap back to 700's when I get the dual battery. Worst case I go 6 months on 700's.

I'm still curious as to why rear mods would factor into front spring weight though

 

envision that. if the front is moving up and down it fulcrums at the middle and adds the opposite force & movement up front. more stability in the rear generally leads to more up front.

regardless, if you have a firm plan and don't want to do redundant work, then tell him to set you up as if you have the full 700lb spring requirement, and get it done asap (the 2nd batt, that is).