TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Id really like to run an RPM one if possible, even if i have to cut it. I kinda want this to be a one and done type of thing for a while for peace of mind, especially after reading about your issues with your serp belt chewing up your front main seal. Tis my paranoia kicking in again

 

I have a Champion on my Tacoma. The cap that came with it did start leaking, yes. I ordered a premium one from their website. It's been working fine.

Edit: I think it was actually from Ledfoot Racing's website.

 

Checked this sheet from gates. Stock drive belt effective length is 83.5". Found a K100837RPM that is 83.66" effective length and 10 ribs so id need to trim 3 ribs off. Do yall think this would be close enough size wise?

http://www.gatesracing.com/assets/GatesRacing/files/428-3291 RPM Belt Dimension List LORES.pdf

 

Do you need a stock radiator cap?

 

Does it need to be a higher pressure cap?

 

All this talk about the NST alternator pulley and over revving the it. I have one on my TRDsport and no problems towing. Curious if there is a difference

 

Mine is not NST. I think it's like 8% smaller than stock. No problems here so far. Installed probably 9 months ago.

 

Well we will know about NST for sure with @mightytacoman

 

Hopefully the black Friday alt pulley shows up before next week otherwise it's install will get delayed

 

Best to reference on their page. Even on NST website they advertise a RPm belt with description and pictures. BULL s#it I recieved a standard belt for my 1GR when I ordered. Wishful thinking https://www.gates.com/us/en/power-transmission/micro-v-belts/automotive-micro-v-belts/c/104

 

Tried their website and it keeps leading me to the standard gates belt. Doesnt look like they make an RPM belt for our accessory drive. Only for the stock length sc belt. Thats why i mentioned we'd need to trim one down thats a similar size

 

@BassAckwards Edit: nevermind, seems like you found a close fit. Is it as easy as slicing the extra rib with a razor and using a flame to seal up the aramid cord? Not sure I'd trust loose cord over a factory belt but I've heard it being done

 

Youd have to cut 3 ribs off the one i posted but yes youd need to trim down wiith a razor blade. Ive found you need to have 2 or 3 very sharp blades and keep changing them out to keep the cut super clean. If you do it that way you wouldnt have issues with the cord. I have messed up a sc rpm belt by not changing the razor blades out frequently when the blade got dull.

 

I guess only one way to find out if that belt is going to work! At least you can carry your OE as the spare. If you're shredding belts though, most likely alignment is off or a tooth skipped somehow, somewhere between pulley or belt. So unless the issue is fixed... maybe we need a adamantium (marvel™) crank seal too lol

 

Good to know. Thanks man! I'll look into em.

I'll just go aftermarket. I appreciate it.

I was wondering about that too. Mines stamped 0.9.. in BAR of course. Roughly 13 PSI.

I tried a fix last night. I bent the lock flanges on the cap to help create a tighter fit. When I head back home after work this morning and it's built some pressure I'm going to check it.

Probably just go with the upgraded cap as @Athlaos mentioned

 

No sweat, just thought I’d offer. If you change your mind let me know. My oem cap is on my oem radiator in the CSF box up in my shed.......I can send it to ya.

 

That’s what I went to. Lexus stock cap is 1.1 But I switched to a .9 cap off a Tundra. Seems like I have less issues with the Tundra cap.

 

For that one guy out there (besides myself) still running a stock air box...

So you broke off the little nipple for the hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator? No worries.

 

I didn’t break mine but that’s pretty much what I’m using for my intake I’m making.